Hello guys, i have been lurking on NAM for some time now. i personally own a 2009 clk350 but am looking to buy my mother a mini convertible this weeek.
I have found 2 that i really like and they are priced similar. if someone can be kind enough to point me in the right direction.
1) 2009 mini cooper s (auto) it has 43k miles.
JCW AERO KIT, two tone Interchage Yellow Leather/cloth,JCW Areo Kit,Sport Package,Premium Package,Cold weather Package Includig Heated Powerfold Outside Mirrors,Park Distance Control, 17" Black Star Bullet Wheels,Bi-Xenon Headlights with Powerwash, Bluetooth and USB/Ipod Adapter,Interior Surface Body
Color,Openometer,ChromeLine Interior,Multifunction Leather Steering,Cruise,keyless entr


VIN:WMWMS33509TG89036


2) 2010 mini cooper s (auto) 15,012 miles. It also has the premium package and cold weather package.



Vin:WMWMS3C59ATZ85299

Both have 1 owner, the first is a lease return the 2nd i believe is a lease return as well.

they are priced the same but of course i can work them down a bit.
i really like the first option but the 43k miles kind of scare me!!

has anything changed from 2009 to 2010? also i will be having them shipped so i can not go physically check them out, but both are sstill under factory warranty

 

the second one looks like it is leather but im not sure.


Can someone decode both and let me know if the service has been kept up with!
thanks again, cant wait go buy it for my mom and mod it heheheheh double benefit !!!!

 

Blue one, looks like leatherette

 

Thanks, what are your thoughts on the yellow one?

 

Given similar prices the second one is definitely the way to go...slightly better aesthetics isn't worth 30k miles IMO

 

First, you can easily work down the price on either vehicle; but I would say you can get a better deal for the options on the yellow vert'.

43K miles isn't high at all on a 2009; that's less than 15K miles a year which is less than the average across the nation.
The key is look at key elements on maintenance; ask for records and review them.

Most things on a used vehicle can be noticed by a trained eye if you know what you're looking for. Abuse, neglect, cover-ups; they all leave a trail.
Check the paint around all the doors, look for paint overspray; that's evidence of replacement body-work due to an accident.

Check the heat shield around the turbocharger and on the fire wall inside the engine bay; is it discolored? Brown? Removed?
If so, the car you may be looking at has been hot-rodded all over town.

Check the oil, coolant, the undercarriage for scrapes + dents, any leaks, and anything and everything to get the upper hand on the sales person or owner.
Double check all components and you'll find out everything you'll want to know on the car.

Other things to look for:

Oil Sludging / Low Oil Problems: The biggest failure in terms of negligence has been the oil level, and oil change frequency on these cars. Since the oil system affect the Vacuum Pump, Timing Chain tensioner, turbocharge feed and return lines, and critical engine bearings, a low oil condition can make for serious problems down the road. Read the oil dipstick, see if the oil is low or is extremely thick / chunky; if so, maintenance has been neglected and you'll want to proceed with extreme caution if purchasing the vehicle. If sludging occurs, you could eventually have problems with: 1.) the Vacuum Pump seizing which will shear off the camshaft timing sprocket and grenade the engine. 2.) Timing Chain tensioner not applying proper tension on the timing chain, allowing the chain to skip teeth on the camshaft sprocket, therefore ruining the engine. 3.) Turbocharger bearings not be supplied with proper oil flow which will cook the bearings in the turbocharger, causing seizure.

Timing Chain Tensioner [1.6T - N14 / N18]: When you first fire up the vehicle and there's a significant metallic rattle on the passenger side of the engine, that's the sound of a loose timing chain. The parasitic "Cold-Start Rattle" you will read about refers to the lack of proper tension on the timing chain or the chain stretched out beyond proper specification. There's been reworking of the timing chain tensioner and a replacement is easy to come by, but it should be required. There's also a TSB regarding if the chain is out of spec, it can be replaced, sometimes even out of warranty. Check maintenance history and any open TSB's at a local MINI dealer.

Valvetrain Coking / Carbon Build-Up: Since the turbocharged engine use direct-injection (DI) versus fuel-port injection (FPI), the fuel is directly shot into the combustion chamber. Because that is so, there's no fuel washdown on the backside of the intake valves. Due to the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system on the engine, oil vapor is pulled from the valve cover into the intake system and can condense and build on the back of the intake valves. Serious coking of the valves will lead to obvious power reduction as the valves aren't properly closing for the combustion (power) stroke of the engine. What can be done about it? On the preventative side, make sure you're driving the car to bring it to proper operating temperature; short trips produce more vapor condensation. Once up to running temp, don't be afraid the bring the RPMs up to the rev-limiter of the engine; the 1.6T's love higher engine speeds, as it'll burn off most of the oily residue on the valves and keep the engine 'clean'. You can also install an oil catch can which with a passenger side PCV block port, will pull oil vapor through a condensing catch can first before being reintroduced into the engine. And finally, if the coking is so bad performance is hindered, the MINI dealer can do a walnut-media blasting service that uses crushed walnut shells to blast off any baked on carbon build-up; expect that service to cost several hundred dollars.

Dual Mass Clutch Assembly: A company called Valeo supplies MINI with the clutch assembly. During the early years of the 2nd-Generation, the clutches were incorrectly manufactured: the flywheel mass binding rivets were poorly installed causing excessive movement and play in the flywheel. That movement accelerated wear on the clutch disc itself, leading to a slipping clutch and eventually failure. When driving, take note of the available take-up on the clutch pedal. Engagement should be around mid-stride and should be pretty fluid. There is documentation out there if the vehicle has been covered or be given OEM replacement through the dealer; see the vehicle service history for more details.

Check Engine Light (CEL): Make sure all of the emission control circuits are intact and there are no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) stored in the OBD system. This includes the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, the ignition coil, Secondary Air Injection system, and other sensors. Check to ensure no other fault codes in other modules, like ABS, SRS (airbag), etc.

ABS System: Test drive the vehicle and perform a Panic Stop to ensure that the ABS system is in proper condition. If not, expect to pay a fortune to replace the system... avoid those at all costs, unless you've got a buddy in the business.

All Electrical Accessories: Make sure to nit-pick all of the accessories; power windows (all switches), power locks, AC, cruise control... the works! There's been some issues in the early 2nd-Generation models and the kinks are still getting worked out.

VIN Service History: If you're not convinced of what previous maintenance has been completed on the vehicle, grab the entire VIN number off the dash, and bring it to a MINI dealership. Their database will give you any insight of service maintenance records, if it's been brought in any MINI dealer stateside. You could use that information against the selling party to negotiate price if there's something that's required for replacement / service.

As for putting down the cash: Play hardball with the price! Flash the cash; that always puts you in the offensive and gives good results. Offer to pay what you want for the car, not what the seller wants. If they say "no", walk away from the deal. There's other cars out there; and besides, they (and chances are good) they'll meet your reasonable price before letting you walk away.

Really the R55 / R56 / R57 / R58 / R59's are good; consumer reports tend to be negative because of faults due to lack of proper ownership.
Honestly, some owners have run into problems, but that was due to abuse and obvious neglect on the car.

With the 2nd-Generation here's what you're looking at...
Let's break this down to see both side of repairs:

1.6T - N14 / N18:
* timing chain tensioner - oil sludging will produce failure and destruction of vavletrain
* vacuum pump seizure - oil sludging will produce failure and destruction of valvetrain
* turbocharger - oil sludging will occur if neglected or abused
* oil level / oil consumption - MINI specs consuming 1 quart per 1000 miles is typical; always keep engine oil to proper level
* carbon build-up - due to "grandma style" driving habits; can use catch-can to reduce oil vapor into intake system
* clutch assembly - early model faulty manufacturing and/or poor previous manual driver

All relatively easy if you take care of the car.
And if they do fault out, and you're mechanically inclined, you'll have no problems doing the many of the repairs yourself.

Best of luck!

- Erik

 

Thank you all for alkyl this amazing info. Making me feel right at home! When i get give i will rub through all the details. Btw. They both are priced at 19,900! Thanks

 

finally got in touch with the dealers of the yellow mini, they are not lowering their price. they are staying put at 19,900.
waiting on the dealers of the blue mini.
will keep you posted!

 

the second dealer is not going down in price either!
tomorrow i will go to mini of Manhattan and get the build sheet and service records to those two cars.
i can live with out the JCW bodykit (even though it looks sexy as hell) but it kills me not to have xenon headlights and leather seats!
i know xenon lights can be retro fitted but i rather not spend an extra grand.
also, how much does it cost to extend the warranty at mini? i heard somewhere that it was around 1000?
thanks again

 

You know you want the Yellow one!

It is hard to tell from the picture but unless the seats have a different colored piping neither have lounge leather. The all black seats are pleather or cloth. The Yellow one will likely hold it's value better. It already is, combine that with the wow factor that you (and I) are feeling. Let's face it, on paper they are both MCS autos and its a year older with an extra 30K miles, we should not even be having this conversation, yet we are. Down the road it will also be easier to sell. 45K is normal mileage and being a lease return likely both are mechanically up to snuff. I would go with the one you really want (the yellow one), Try to get them down but get the extended warranty to make up the difference.

 

 

Thanks for your input smmoke05s. those are closer pics of the Yellow one!

 

Are either one of these a MINI Next Certified purchase frm a MINI dealer ?

In addition to the huge list above, few more important things to physically check with respect to convertibles.

Examine canvass top thoroughly. They are something like $5-6K to replace. Examine for any cracks/creases/holes or potential issues every point where it folds and where mechanical arms are. Examine locks on both sides up at windshield for tight fit and proper operation.

Don't be afraid to get under that carpeting and check the insulation under the carpet on both pass and drivers side near fire wall. Pull it down best you can and feel back there for any moisture or signs that the top was left down in a rain storm....( has been known to happen....)

With respect to any used car, no history doesnt mean there isn't any. Track the locations where it was registered. Right now anything from New Jersey I would be suspect/on guard for signs of "Sandy" damage....

The R57s also have had some issues with boot seals not holding up, check boot area for signs of moisture/water intrusion.

 

Thanks for all tbat info, you are being very helpful! The peoblem is that im in my (at tge moment i would not buy a nj registered car) and the 2 cars are far away to physically examine. Thw yellow is a cali car and the blue is a Minnesota car. This is worrying me, i can not go examine the cars. I can not find a used car that fits what i want and need close by!

 

yellow one!

 

I'm leaning towards the yellow one. I will go to mini of tomorrow and get the service records and build sheet. I really hope its leather!

 

Listen to Gray Raven, I am biased because that color is my favorite and would be my first pick. I settled for my HZB JCW, I would have taken a Yellow MCS with black wheels if they had one. They were getting more for a MCS with an Aero Kit than a JCW back in 2009 when i got mine. I really like those wheels too. You can probably find some old posts when I was looking for wheels, those were my first choice too. So I ended up going this route loving what the car does but not 100% on board with the color even to this day. That yellow car other than being a convertible and an auto is what I have been after since day one.

My last two cars were BMW convertibles and I live in California, I bought them used and neither one worked 100% correct so Grey Raven has a point. It would make a big difference if it was garaged or not. You would think the Minnesota car was probably parked all winter. But what if it wasn't? Now you have to worry about rust on the blue one and that erases that 30K advantage as far as I am concerned. . . But don't listen to me, I am not thinking with my head!

Just for reference, the photo below is lounge leather. I think the cloth may hold up better in a convertible . . there i go again.

Tough choice! Let us know how it goes.

 

Below is y email exchange with mini of Manhattan!

I ran those serial numbers in our inventry and don't see them. Are those vehicle you saw on our websites? We have Pre-Owned MINI's in stock. Are you looking to purchase those exact vehicles or are you open to other vehicles?

Regards,

Phil Salazar BMW/MINI of Manhattan, Inc. (212)607-8702

Hi Phil, i did look through your inventory and did not find anything that i liked especially in my price range (20k). I found these 3 vehicles on cars.com that had what i was looking for with all the features and a existing warranty. I did call mini corporate and they said i can go into any bmw/mini service center and get the build sheet and service record for the minis i was looking at. I was hoping i can come into mini of Manhattan service center and pick up records to the 3 cars i was looking into. WMWMS3C59ATZ85299 WMWMS33509TG89036 WMWMS33529TG89037 Again, you guys were the first mini dealers i looked into, followed by other local dealers but unfortunately did not find what i what looking for . Thanks,

The only thing we have access to is the building spec's (codes) which I don't think will do you any good. If we were the originating dealer we could pull up the MSRP sheets that have the listing of equipment. as for the service spec's, once again all we would have is what service records we have done. Wish I could help you more. You may be better off trying to get a carfax from the selling dealers. Sorry.

Phil Salazar

So they are not willing to help unless i but a car form them :(. I know dealers have access to service records.
Is there any mini rep on this sure that i can contact? I will post up the cars.com link to the cars that I'm looking at thanx!

 

http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail...&&aff=national

http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail...&&aff=national

http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail...&&aff=national

 

Ok guys, do the blue one sold! Its down to the two yellow ones! One of the yellow ones shows a lot of service recorda (the north Carolina one) if there is a mini rep ere that can make my live easier please help. Almost have this done!!

 

Call another dealer for records; someone else would be more than willing to help, especially if they know you'll be in for future service.

- Erik

 

quick update!
so the blue one got sold, I am now stuck between 2 yellow ones. one had the JCW kit the other has the kit and claims that it has the engine mods as well. i would love to get the one with the JCW engine mods but need to confirm all the options it has because it is not listed. the mini service dealer and the dealership that has the car are both closed :( .
the vin to that particular mini is WMWMS33529TG89037.

Hope everyone has a happy sunday!!

 

I know you're lookin' for an R57. But you might be swayed towards this:
http://www.motoringunderground.com/f...161#post766161

I know I would.

 

If the car was for me i would buy the one you posted! It looks sick!! But ifs for my Mom and we need an auto.also she had always wanted a convertible. But tripple pepper white sounds sick!!!!

 

That's a car you won't need to dig history on. Many among us m|utants have OCD. That's 1 well taken care of R56 right there. & those CCWs! Can't say enough.
Good luck w/ your search.