R50/53 60k miles, looking to do preventative maintenance
60k miles, looking to do preventative maintenance
So I Just picked up my first 04 Mini Cooper S with the JCW package. The car had about 58,000 miles on it when I purchased it. I have just rolled over 60k now and want to start getting a list of parts together to make sure she is in perfect running condition. So far I have on my maintenance list:
-Transmission Fluid change to Redline MTL
-Brake Fluid Flush
-Air Filter
-Coolant swap
-OEM or aftermarket overflow tank
-Supercharger oil change
-Control arm bushings
-Oil pan gasket
-Spark plugs
Is there anything else around this mileage that you think I should replace? Or things that would be easy to replace while I am doing some of these things? I want to make sure that she is going to run for a good long time. Thanks!
-Transmission Fluid change to Redline MTL
-Brake Fluid Flush
-Air Filter
-Coolant swap
-OEM or aftermarket overflow tank
-Supercharger oil change
-Control arm bushings
-Oil pan gasket
-Spark plugs
Is there anything else around this mileage that you think I should replace? Or things that would be easy to replace while I am doing some of these things? I want to make sure that she is going to run for a good long time. Thanks!
I did all of what you have plus the following:
-Cabin air filter (Mine was NASSSSTTYY and is usually the case)
-Valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals (Do if yours is leaking. Mine was.)
-Crank sensor gasket (If leaking: Most likely is) Easy and fast if you are already doing the supercharger oil anyway.
-Power steering fluid and this: http://www.mini2.com/forum/first-gen...ump-diy-2.html
Things to check:
-Engine mounts (Most leak or crack)
-Spark plug wires
-Check ignition coil for corrosion
I know there is more I am missing...
-Cabin air filter (Mine was NASSSSTTYY and is usually the case)
-Valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals (Do if yours is leaking. Mine was.)
-Crank sensor gasket (If leaking: Most likely is) Easy and fast if you are already doing the supercharger oil anyway.
-Power steering fluid and this: http://www.mini2.com/forum/first-gen...ump-diy-2.html
Things to check:
-Engine mounts (Most leak or crack)
-Spark plug wires
-Check ignition coil for corrosion
I know there is more I am missing...
I did all of what you have plus the following:
-Cabin air filter (Mine was NASSSSTTYY and is usually the case)
-Valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals (Do if yours is leaking. Mine was.)
-Crank sensor gasket (If leaking: Most likely is) Easy and fast if you are already doing the supercharger oil anyway.
-Power steering fluid and this: http://www.mini2.com/forum/first-gen...ump-diy-2.html
Things to check:
-Engine mounts (Most leak or crack)
-Spark plug wires
-Check ignition coil for corrosion
I know there is more I am missing...
-Cabin air filter (Mine was NASSSSTTYY and is usually the case)
-Valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals (Do if yours is leaking. Mine was.)
-Crank sensor gasket (If leaking: Most likely is) Easy and fast if you are already doing the supercharger oil anyway.
-Power steering fluid and this: http://www.mini2.com/forum/first-gen...ump-diy-2.html
Things to check:
-Engine mounts (Most leak or crack)
-Spark plug wires
-Check ignition coil for corrosion
I know there is more I am missing...
At you miles, inspection #2 is about due....it is very through....and will check/lube/replace many things that have been mentioned....
The list is on many threads....it is all of insp 1 with the stuff added on for inspection 2...ends up a full pm..pluss the goodies you are adding.
The list is on many threads....it is all of insp 1 with the stuff added on for inspection 2...ends up a full pm..pluss the goodies you are adding.
I'm on the same boat as you. I bought mine with 55k and so far have put 10k awesome miles. I've changed:
-Oil and filter- OEM filter and Royal Purple
-Oil Drain Plug- Should be changed every oil change IMO
-Air filter- OEM
-Rotors and pads- Zimmerman rotors and Bosch pads
-Cabin filter- it was gross
-Wiper blades and tints
-Inspection of common problems like the PS fan, coolant overflow tank, ignition coil (had corrosion in pin 3, greased it up and everything is running fine), mushrooming (slightly mushroomed), and a general clean and lube and pull codes (I had none)
-Aux input-weird thing is everyone said I would have to disconnect my cd changer but everything works!
-Oh and a few ticks and rattles around the cabin that needed to be addressed
On my list is:
-Coolant change- adding a little water wetter too
-Brake fluid change- couldn't do it while changing the brakes because I had no bleeder and wanted to make sure I got the clutch fluid too
-Fuel filter
-Spark plugs and wires
-Manual trans fluid
-Supercharger oil
-Motor and transmission mounts-my top passenger mount has leaked
-Stainless steel brake lines
-Serpentine belt- going to do it as a part of a 15% pulley, colder plugs and tensioner stop, kit from WMW
-Madness strut reinforcement plates- the idea of plates under instead of on top of the mount sounds more sturdy to my. A lot of opinions on the boards about this. To each his own.
I have not seen any leaks (other than the dried up motor mount oil) at all. Im pretty good about checking everything and keeping an eye on my driveway for even a drop of anything so I may wait to start changing gaskets unless its an easy job . After all that I'm going to tackle the suspension. I've never worked on suspensions before and it makes me a bit nervous but with some time it should be doable.
*****, long post! Good luck on your wrenching. A good manual (Bentley if you have the $) I opted for a Haynes (mostly for torque specs) and a long list of links to DIY threads will come in handy. When I work on my car I try to not place a deadline and work slow and careful. Cheers!!
-Oil and filter- OEM filter and Royal Purple
-Oil Drain Plug- Should be changed every oil change IMO
-Air filter- OEM
-Rotors and pads- Zimmerman rotors and Bosch pads
-Cabin filter- it was gross
-Wiper blades and tints
-Inspection of common problems like the PS fan, coolant overflow tank, ignition coil (had corrosion in pin 3, greased it up and everything is running fine), mushrooming (slightly mushroomed), and a general clean and lube and pull codes (I had none)
-Aux input-weird thing is everyone said I would have to disconnect my cd changer but everything works!
-Oh and a few ticks and rattles around the cabin that needed to be addressed
On my list is:
-Coolant change- adding a little water wetter too
-Brake fluid change- couldn't do it while changing the brakes because I had no bleeder and wanted to make sure I got the clutch fluid too
-Fuel filter
-Spark plugs and wires
-Manual trans fluid
-Supercharger oil
-Motor and transmission mounts-my top passenger mount has leaked
-Stainless steel brake lines
-Serpentine belt- going to do it as a part of a 15% pulley, colder plugs and tensioner stop, kit from WMW
-Madness strut reinforcement plates- the idea of plates under instead of on top of the mount sounds more sturdy to my. A lot of opinions on the boards about this. To each his own.
I have not seen any leaks (other than the dried up motor mount oil) at all. Im pretty good about checking everything and keeping an eye on my driveway for even a drop of anything so I may wait to start changing gaskets unless its an easy job . After all that I'm going to tackle the suspension. I've never worked on suspensions before and it makes me a bit nervous but with some time it should be doable.
*****, long post! Good luck on your wrenching. A good manual (Bentley if you have the $) I opted for a Haynes (mostly for torque specs) and a long list of links to DIY threads will come in handy. When I work on my car I try to not place a deadline and work slow and careful. Cheers!!
In addition:
1.Swap your sure-to-fail OEM harmonic damper w/ an ATI before it dies on the road
2.Install tensioner stop
3.Check strut mounts & install Strut tower defenders,
4.While you're changing LCA bushings, swap out your sway bar bushings & ball joints to save you labor
5.Swap out your coolant expansion tank w/ an aluminum 1.
6.Change or tighten you Power steering hose clamps should you find weeping
7.Check your low-speed fan. If busted, change the resistor to this:
http://ph.mouser.com/ProductDetail/A...XjsYM7uQ%3d%3d
8.Check brake pads, change brake fluid about every coupla years.
9.Check door sill for rust
Don't mean to scare you & I'll just stop at 9. All are doable by dummies. Just be ready. There are other things that commonly but randomly fail. You may tackle them when you encounter those issues.
1.Swap your sure-to-fail OEM harmonic damper w/ an ATI before it dies on the road
2.Install tensioner stop
3.Check strut mounts & install Strut tower defenders,
4.While you're changing LCA bushings, swap out your sway bar bushings & ball joints to save you labor
5.Swap out your coolant expansion tank w/ an aluminum 1.
6.Change or tighten you Power steering hose clamps should you find weeping
7.Check your low-speed fan. If busted, change the resistor to this:
http://ph.mouser.com/ProductDetail/A...XjsYM7uQ%3d%3d
8.Check brake pads, change brake fluid about every coupla years.
9.Check door sill for rust
Don't mean to scare you & I'll just stop at 9. All are doable by dummies. Just be ready. There are other things that commonly but randomly fail. You may tackle them when you encounter those issues.
Trending Topics
I'm on the same boat as you. I bought mine with 55k and so far have put 10k awesome miles. I've changed:
-Oil and filter- OEM filter and Royal Purple
-Oil Drain Plug- Should be changed every oil change IMO
-Air filter- OEM
-Rotors and pads- Zimmerman rotors and Bosch pads
-Cabin filter- it was gross
-Wiper blades and tints
-Inspection of common problems like the PS fan, coolant overflow tank, ignition coil (had corrosion in pin 3, greased it up and everything is running fine), mushrooming (slightly mushroomed), and a general clean and lube and pull codes (I had none)
-Aux input-weird thing is everyone said I would have to disconnect my cd changer but everything works!
-Oh and a few ticks and rattles around the cabin that needed to be addressed
On my list is:
-Coolant change- adding a little water wetter too
-Brake fluid change- couldn't do it while changing the brakes because I had no bleeder and wanted to make sure I got the clutch fluid too
-Fuel filter
-Spark plugs and wires
-Manual trans fluid
-Supercharger oil
-Motor and transmission mounts-my top passenger mount has leaked
-Stainless steel brake lines
-Serpentine belt- going to do it as a part of a 15% pulley, colder plugs and tensioner stop, kit from WMW
-Madness strut reinforcement plates- the idea of plates under instead of on top of the mount sounds more sturdy to my. A lot of opinions on the boards about this. To each his own.
I have not seen any leaks (other than the dried up motor mount oil) at all. Im pretty good about checking everything and keeping an eye on my driveway for even a drop of anything so I may wait to start changing gaskets unless its an easy job . After all that I'm going to tackle the suspension. I've never worked on suspensions before and it makes me a bit nervous but with some time it should be doable.
*****, long post! Good luck on your wrenching. A good manual (Bentley if you have the $) I opted for a Haynes (mostly for torque specs) and a long list of links to DIY threads will come in handy. When I work on my car I try to not place a deadline and work slow and careful. Cheers!!
-Oil and filter- OEM filter and Royal Purple
-Oil Drain Plug- Should be changed every oil change IMO
-Air filter- OEM
-Rotors and pads- Zimmerman rotors and Bosch pads
-Cabin filter- it was gross
-Wiper blades and tints
-Inspection of common problems like the PS fan, coolant overflow tank, ignition coil (had corrosion in pin 3, greased it up and everything is running fine), mushrooming (slightly mushroomed), and a general clean and lube and pull codes (I had none)
-Aux input-weird thing is everyone said I would have to disconnect my cd changer but everything works!
-Oh and a few ticks and rattles around the cabin that needed to be addressed
On my list is:
-Coolant change- adding a little water wetter too
-Brake fluid change- couldn't do it while changing the brakes because I had no bleeder and wanted to make sure I got the clutch fluid too
-Fuel filter
-Spark plugs and wires
-Manual trans fluid
-Supercharger oil
-Motor and transmission mounts-my top passenger mount has leaked
-Stainless steel brake lines
-Serpentine belt- going to do it as a part of a 15% pulley, colder plugs and tensioner stop, kit from WMW
-Madness strut reinforcement plates- the idea of plates under instead of on top of the mount sounds more sturdy to my. A lot of opinions on the boards about this. To each his own.
I have not seen any leaks (other than the dried up motor mount oil) at all. Im pretty good about checking everything and keeping an eye on my driveway for even a drop of anything so I may wait to start changing gaskets unless its an easy job . After all that I'm going to tackle the suspension. I've never worked on suspensions before and it makes me a bit nervous but with some time it should be doable.
*****, long post! Good luck on your wrenching. A good manual (Bentley if you have the $) I opted for a Haynes (mostly for torque specs) and a long list of links to DIY threads will come in handy. When I work on my car I try to not place a deadline and work slow and careful. Cheers!!
Seen some coolant tanks go beyond 100K, usually the cap fails first but the built up pressure in the tank before cap blows will weaken the plastic welds so tank leakage becomes inevitable....Having a solid chrome coolant tank while very cool looking is kinda like the newer BMW's with no dip stick. I prefer to eyeball my fluid levels not trusting mechanisms of electronics or using the force.....
This list of things that everyone is suggesting is starting to get a bit overwhelming.
I really want an R53 but I drive about 30-35k miles a year and think the maintenance on it, considering all the things people have already mentioned, will start to rack up faster than I like.
I really want an R53 but I drive about 30-35k miles a year and think the maintenance on it, considering all the things people have already mentioned, will start to rack up faster than I like.
In addition:
1.Swap your sure-to-fail OEM harmonic damper w/ an ATI before it dies on the road
2.Install tensioner stop
3.Check strut mounts & install Strut tower defenders,
4.While you're changing LCA bushings, swap out your sway bar bushings & ball joints to save you labor
5.Swap out your coolant expansion tank w/ an aluminum 1.
6.Change or tighten you Power steering hose clamps should you find weeping
7.Check your low-speed fan. If busted, change the resistor to this:
http://ph.mouser.com/ProductDetail/A...XjsYM7uQ%3d%3d
8.Check brake pads, change brake fluid about every coupla years.
9.Check door sill for rust
Don't mean to scare you & I'll just stop at 9. All are doable by dummies. Just be ready. There are other things that commonly but randomly fail. You may tackle them when you encounter those issues.
1.Swap your sure-to-fail OEM harmonic damper w/ an ATI before it dies on the road
2.Install tensioner stop
3.Check strut mounts & install Strut tower defenders,
4.While you're changing LCA bushings, swap out your sway bar bushings & ball joints to save you labor
5.Swap out your coolant expansion tank w/ an aluminum 1.
6.Change or tighten you Power steering hose clamps should you find weeping
7.Check your low-speed fan. If busted, change the resistor to this:
http://ph.mouser.com/ProductDetail/A...XjsYM7uQ%3d%3d
8.Check brake pads, change brake fluid about every coupla years.
9.Check door sill for rust
Don't mean to scare you & I'll just stop at 9. All are doable by dummies. Just be ready. There are other things that commonly but randomly fail. You may tackle them when you encounter those issues.
Honestly the Mini is not for everyone. For me a weekend in the garage is a treat so some maintenance here and there is part of the fun but some people just want to add fuel and have their car last forever. Not trying to burst anyone's bubble but fact is these cars do require more maintenance than say a Civic and mechanics are expensive so if you rush to the mechanic (or,gulp..dealer) for everything it will get expensive. I can only imagine what the coolant tank would set me back, 200-250 (1 hour at 150ish and 100 for a tank at the dealer) maybe? I rather instal myself for 75 and an extra 10 for a six pack
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
igzekyativ
MINIs & Minis for Sale
34
Jul 16, 2020 12:54 PM
igzekyativ
MINIs & Minis for Sale
28
Dec 23, 2015 10:36 AM
gmonde
MINIs & Minis for Sale
1
Sep 8, 2015 06:37 AM



