R50/53 R50 Control Arms
R50 Control Arms
Recently got in an accident with my 2005 MC R50. The front left control arm needs to be replaced, but I wanted to just replace all 4 stock replaced with aftermarket to fix my camber issues as well.
I guess my question is: For example: Left rear side - Do I need 2 arms per or is it only 1. I am assuming it's just 1 arm per corner...
http://www.waymotorworks.com/h-sport...lower-set.html
I guess my question is: For example: Left rear side - Do I need 2 arms per or is it only 1. I am assuming it's just 1 arm per corner...
http://www.waymotorworks.com/h-sport...lower-set.html
Last edited by danbanger; Oct 16, 2012 at 04:39 PM.
Those are the rear camber links.
Here's the only aftermarket front control arm I've ever seen at $800 each,
and I've heard things about their (not so great) durability.
Most people use oem for the fronts.
http://www.mini-madness.com/browsepr...trol-arms.HTML
Here's the only aftermarket front control arm I've ever seen at $800 each,
and I've heard things about their (not so great) durability.
Most people use oem for the fronts.
http://www.mini-madness.com/browsepr...trol-arms.HTML
Thank you for the pictures, those help a lot, I think I will just have the front replaced with OEM.
My question now is if I have is that if my car is lowered...I will only need this set to fix the rear camber? http://www.waymotorworks.com/h-sport...ber-links.html
Thank you very much
My question now is if I have is that if my car is lowered...I will only need this set to fix the rear camber? http://www.waymotorworks.com/h-sport...ber-links.html
Thank you very much
I might be wrong about the price on the light front arms - might be $800 per pair, but it's a moot point since
they're no longer available.
On the rear arms, there is an upper and a lower on each side.
Some people only change one per side as you can still adjust camber that way and
can adjust toe at the trailing arm bolt, so yes, this is all you need to fix the rear camber when lowering.
If you change both on each side, it gives you a different and slightly easier way to adjust rear toe*,
and you can also change rear track slightly if desired, plus you get more of the strength and weight
advantage of the aftermarket parts.
*(if you shorten the lower arms and lengthen the upper arms by the same amount each, you decrease camber while
keeping the toe unchanged)
they're no longer available.
On the rear arms, there is an upper and a lower on each side.
Some people only change one per side as you can still adjust camber that way and
can adjust toe at the trailing arm bolt, so yes, this is all you need to fix the rear camber when lowering.
If you change both on each side, it gives you a different and slightly easier way to adjust rear toe*,
and you can also change rear track slightly if desired, plus you get more of the strength and weight
advantage of the aftermarket parts.
*(if you shorten the lower arms and lengthen the upper arms by the same amount each, you decrease camber while
keeping the toe unchanged)
Last question: Can you clarify what you mean when you say "...can adjust toe at the trailing arm bolt"
Is that something that is adjustable on my MC or the camber links? Awhile back I found that 2005- and onward MCs had a little room for camber adjustment. I did find out that since my 05 MC is from production 7/2004, that my particular model does not have this. Is that what you are referring to?
Thanks again for being patient D:
Is that something that is adjustable on my MC or the camber links? Awhile back I found that 2005- and onward MCs had a little room for camber adjustment. I did find out that since my 05 MC is from production 7/2004, that my particular model does not have this. Is that what you are referring to?
Thanks again for being patient D:
No, the way to adjust rear toe on MINIs is to loosen the 3 bolts that secure the rear trailing arm to the chassis
(the much heftier piece illustrated as 4 and 6 in this link) and shifting the trailing arm
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...81&hg=33&fg=30
(there's a bmw special tool 32 4 200 - an eccentric socket - that makes this easier but it's
not essential) then re-tightening at the new hopefully correct setting. There's a nice pic of these 3 bolts on
p. 330-14 of the Bentley manual.
Using two adjustable camber links (control arms) as described before is a little less hit or miss in landing on the desired setting.
The reason to even mention toe-in/out adjustment is that when you change camber either by lowering the car or by using a
single adjustable control arm, it also changes the toe-in and it may need to be corrected back to stock settings
(about 1/5 degree [12'] per wheel toe-in = 24' +/- 8' total) although many like to just choose 0 toe-in.
BTW, 24' toe-in is just a little more than 1/16" if you use the difference in distance between front and back of the tires method of measuring toe-in.
View of rear tires (0 = tire, ____ = tape measure) from above:
front of tires
<........a....>
.__________.
0_________0 b-a = toe-in, a-b = toe-out
<........b....>
rear of tires
(the much heftier piece illustrated as 4 and 6 in this link) and shifting the trailing arm
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...81&hg=33&fg=30
(there's a bmw special tool 32 4 200 - an eccentric socket - that makes this easier but it's
not essential) then re-tightening at the new hopefully correct setting. There's a nice pic of these 3 bolts on
p. 330-14 of the Bentley manual.
Using two adjustable camber links (control arms) as described before is a little less hit or miss in landing on the desired setting.
The reason to even mention toe-in/out adjustment is that when you change camber either by lowering the car or by using a
single adjustable control arm, it also changes the toe-in and it may need to be corrected back to stock settings
(about 1/5 degree [12'] per wheel toe-in = 24' +/- 8' total) although many like to just choose 0 toe-in.
BTW, 24' toe-in is just a little more than 1/16" if you use the difference in distance between front and back of the tires method of measuring toe-in.
View of rear tires (0 = tire, ____ = tape measure) from above:
front of tires
<........a....>
.__________.
0_________0 b-a = toe-in, a-b = toe-out
<........b....>
rear of tires
Last edited by cristo; Oct 17, 2012 at 04:06 PM.
FYI we have used front control arms if you need those too. Get the powerflex bushings with them, they are perfect for a daily driver.
But the Hsport rear camber links are the best.
But the Hsport rear camber links are the best.
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So much better and longer lasting than stock with virtually no downside.
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