So, as some may know I've been making a diary of a supercharger and water pump swap that I've been working on in my spare time. I'm still working on it, but I got everything back together today to the point where I can fire her up. I made the unfortunate decision of following the Bentley manual procedure which involved removing the intake manifold, fuel rail/injectors, etc. Anyway, turning the key today, it sounds like it's getting close to turning over, but doesn't. Maybe a lack of fuel? Everything from the fuel rail went back on easy enough, injectors clicked in, electrical harnesses are snapped on. Here's a video of it. What are the thoughts before I take the intercooler off again?

 

Sounds like it's turning over fine. Just won't fire.

 

Sounds like you are lacking fuel or spark, or both.
Some things to check:

0. Prime the pump a few times by turning the ignition on and off for a few seconds without starting.
1. If you disconnected it, make sure you plugged the connector to the coil in all the way.
2. Make sure you are getting fuel pressure via the Schrader valve on the fuel rail.
3. Fuses for the fuel pump

I am sure there is more I am not thinking of right now. Will update if I think of anything else.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I primed the pump a few times, and tried to start, no go. I didn't disconnect anything on the coil, but checked it and everything was snug. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn on the ignition, and the fuel rail is becoming pressurized.

 

Just go back snd double check all sensors are firmly plugged in...should feel a click on many of them....generally look and touch everything you worked around, bumped, or removed. I know it is almost overly simplistic to say this, but just check you work.....

 

Check the crankshaft position sensor connector. The sensor itself could be bad. No signal...No start.

 

Didn't get much time tonight, but removed intercooler and checked fuel rail, ECM connection, and everything I could see with a flashlight. The crankshaft position sensor looks pretty buried, so I'll wait until tomorrow to start getting to that.

 

Have you tried pulling codes? I'd do that prior to tearing everything apart again.

 

I did, but it came back with 0 codes. Would you expect the car to be able to produce any codes since the battery was unhooked for a week and the car hasn't started since?

 

Any codes prior to unhooking the battery aren't relevant. You want the new codes.

Try cranking for 15 seconds and recheck. If no codes, start thinking fuel delivery.

Stupid question: Is there gas in this car?

 

I don't think there is such a thing as a stupid question when it comes to this type of stuff. It is easy to overlook something so simple.

I wasn't following your repair thread. Did you change out anything else or do anything else while doing the supercharger and water pump. Things like fuel filter...
Also, in your video you only cranked the car for a short burst, have you tried cranking longer?

 

If you changed your fuel filter mini has been shipping the diesel seal in some of their gas kits.. says on the gasket and prevents the canister everything sits in from pressurizing and delivering fuel.

phil.

 

Thanks guys. The most I've tried cranking was probably about 7 seconds. I haven't unhooked the battery since that point, but didn't immediately try to get codes after that. I tried the next day and came back with no codes. I'll try for longer tonight and pull codes again before disassembling everything again. I checked any fuses that had to do with engine management, and yes, there is definitely gas. My OCD prevents me from ever really getting below a quarter tank.

Here's a quick list of everything taken off/touched:

CAI
throttle body
air bypass valve
intake manifold
Front end
serpentine belt
alternator
SC and water pump

 

It sounds like it's cranking a bit slow, but it should still fire. I would check wire harness's and make sure everything is plugged in, as one sensor and it will not start. Any plug that has a red clip on it, like the coil, has to be plugged in. Maybe the TB, it should still fire, but it's an easy to over look plug. Maybe you didn't plug the injectors in? Pull a spark plug, smell fuel? Then it's getting fuel and no spark. You De-tensioned the belt? How about the vacuum lines to the fuel rail. Give it a good once over, it should be as easy over looked item. There is really nothing to screw up with a SC swap other than something small like that. Good luck. Give us a call if you need help.

Chad
Detroit Tuned
586.792.6464

 

Thanks Chad. I checked all the wiring harnesses I touched. Alternator, throttle body, and fan are all plugged in. Fuel injectors are in tight and clipped in. I never touched the coil, but checked the connector on the back and it's in tight. I pulled the left plug and it does smell like gas. The tensioner tool pin is out and the belt is turning when trying to start the car. Did you say vacuum lines as in plural to the fuel rail? The one is connected from the pressure regulator to the intake manifold.

I did try cranking it for 10+ seconds this time, which did not make the car happy as some thin smoke rose off the engine bay. Didn't smell like burning, but something else.

It is starting to get frustrating, because as you said, I shouldn't be really having this problem after a SC swap. I'm not sure how I could tell if a crankshaft position sensor is bad without the car throwing a code. What would you try next? New plugs?

 

15 seconds (minimum) of cranking, then check codes. Why do you think plugs will help?

 

If your smelling fuel on the plug start looking electrical, first of course start with a spark plug to see if your getting spark, if you are try turning it over with pedal, the only reason I say this is if you somehow unplugged or damaged the intake map sensor (don't know to what extent you pulled things apart) it will not want to start without pedal.

Just a thought, and that is IF you're getting spark, but also using the pedal will sometimes allow you to force a fouled plug to fire "enough" just in case you've inadvertantly fixed something after fouling a plug(s) from your initial attempts.

 

I've never done the procedure to check for spark. Is it documented on the forums anywhere? I did a quick search and didn't see any specifics.

When you say try turning it over with pedal, you mean hitting the gas while starting?

Thanks again.

 

Yes as far as the pedal goes, just be easy on it, don't go crazy pumping it, you're just listening for changes to see if it's trying to start.

As far as the plug, easiest way is to simply pull a plug, hook it back up to the wire, touch the side of the threaded part of the plug to metal, to ground it, have someone turn the car over, see if the plug sparks.

 

I was going to suggest what BlwnAway put about checking for spark at each plug. (Beat me to it)
Above Chad noted that it was cranking slow. I did not notice this, but if it is, it could be a weak (not dead) battery. You may be getting spark and fuel, just not enough of one or the other. If you are not getting codes, a weak battery could explain that away.

 

Thanks, there's some good tutorials for checking spark on youtube. They all reference using an extra plug though. If I used an existing plug, and it was out of the combustion chamber while cranking the engine(meaning, the tube going down into the chamber would be empty)would that be bad, or do I need to go get another plug?

 

DT - Not a big deal. A little fuel will be pumped, unburned, into the cylinder, but it's only for a few revs.

 

I hate to say this....
it sounds like you are in WAY over your head.....
Be sure not to touch the plug...it can KILL YOU when firing...
if you remove the plug from the car, PLEASE reinstall it with a tourqe wrech....i don't want to hear about it getting blown out in 500 miles!!
Any spare plug that will fit in the boot will work....even a junk or new one...

 

Before you go trying to chase a ghost PLEASE look st anything you physically touched or moved...
like are the sparkplug wires plugged in, in the correct order?
you said the car made some smoke when you tried to crank it....
What did it smell like?
Did any parts of the work you did seem harder than you thought it would be....like so.ething you did simply did not make any sense?
When looking at thses issues, like to say, it was all working when you took it appart....so just touch, wiggle, and check everything you touched before you assume a part failed that you did not (need) to touch....
Did you spill coolant or oil on anything....nick or bang or bump any wires when trying to remove a stubbon bolt? Look at those areas!!

 

Not a fun experience. I didn't remove the fuel rail/injectors when I swapped my SC, everything came out from underneath. I have only one suggestion. Look for something that wasn't broken before you started, even not near the work area. I am always amazed how I get clear through a lengthy repair and something else unrelated ends up no longer working. It's like the MINI knows you're in there messing with it. The crankshaft position sensor plug (and sensor) was a good choice to check.

I'm waiting patiently to hear about the spark test results.

Be prepared for your cooling fan to go out now or sometime soon after you're back on the road.

Oh yeah, spark plugs blowing out. Beru's, heading for the trash can. <shakes head> Why would someone bring a product to the US that has been backing out of UK MINI's in the past? Too bad really, the Beru's seem to last longer from a visual inspection.

Sorry for the brief highjack.

Best of luck diagnosing that MCS.