Countryman changing a tire - walkthrough ?
Countryman changing a tire - walkthrough ?
Howdy all,
I'm considering rotating my tires myself.. is this a crazy idea or something better left for professionals ?
If I can do this myself can someone walk me through the process ? I searched this forum but did find a post for changing tires on a MC.
Assume I need to a torque wrench, the lug bolt seems to fit a 17MM socket, things I'm not sure about:
- lug bolts, anything special? or same as lug nuts
- do I put anti seize compound on the lug bolts ?
- torque lbs required ?
- bolt torque pattern different for the MINI CM or just use the standard ?
- jack points, I think this is covered in the manual
Thanks in advance
I'm considering rotating my tires myself.. is this a crazy idea or something better left for professionals ?
If I can do this myself can someone walk me through the process ? I searched this forum but did find a post for changing tires on a MC.
Assume I need to a torque wrench, the lug bolt seems to fit a 17MM socket, things I'm not sure about:
- lug bolts, anything special? or same as lug nuts
- do I put anti seize compound on the lug bolts ?
- torque lbs required ?
- bolt torque pattern different for the MINI CM or just use the standard ?
- jack points, I think this is covered in the manual
Thanks in advance
Check to see if your tires are directional or non-directional. If they are directional then a simple front to back rotation is all you can do. If non, then you can do a back to front cross rotation periodically. Blimey Cabrio has a detailed demo on how to get it up off the deck at http://www.blimeycabrio.com/?s=2X4&x=11&y=12
The lug bolts are 17 MM. The torque is going to be in the neighborhood of 90 to 100 Ft/# so you will want a torque wrench. Take it with you when you have any tire work done anywhere. They will claim to set it where you want it but don't bet on it. Insist that they use your wrench set where you want it otherwise you breaker bar will never get them loose. I've never used anything on the threads but the wheels come off every couple of weeks for cleaning at bath time.
Bolt patter is standard 1-3-5-2-4.
I've not gotten one but some of the vendors have a mounting pin that threads in to hang the wheel on while the bolts are started. Might want to look into that. I'm still on the fence with that one.
The lug bolts are 17 MM. The torque is going to be in the neighborhood of 90 to 100 Ft/# so you will want a torque wrench. Take it with you when you have any tire work done anywhere. They will claim to set it where you want it but don't bet on it. Insist that they use your wrench set where you want it otherwise you breaker bar will never get them loose. I've never used anything on the threads but the wheels come off every couple of weeks for cleaning at bath time.
Bolt patter is standard 1-3-5-2-4.
I've not gotten one but some of the vendors have a mounting pin that threads in to hang the wheel on while the bolts are started. Might want to look into that. I'm still on the fence with that one.
the correct wheel lug bolt torque is 103.3 foot/pounds (140 Nm), i use 105 ft/lb
do find a smooth and level area to jack the car, set the parking brake and have the trans in park (auto) or 1st gear (manual)
i use the oe jack plus a floor jack to lift one side of the car and do a front to back rotation
i do not bother with jack stands as i do not get under the car
break the lug bolts loose before jacking the car and finish the final torque with the wheels back on the ground but with the jack supporting some of the weight of the car
i recheck the wheel lug bolt torque after driving about 100 miles and do not jack the car when rechecking the torque
i run 42 psi front and 36 psi rear tire pressure so i must also adjust tire pressure when doing a tire rotation, but even if you are running the same pressure front and rear, now is a good time to check the tire pressure
one final comment, if you have locking wheel lug bolts, loosen the locking lug first and tighten it last
scott
do find a smooth and level area to jack the car, set the parking brake and have the trans in park (auto) or 1st gear (manual)
i use the oe jack plus a floor jack to lift one side of the car and do a front to back rotation
i do not bother with jack stands as i do not get under the car
break the lug bolts loose before jacking the car and finish the final torque with the wheels back on the ground but with the jack supporting some of the weight of the car
i recheck the wheel lug bolt torque after driving about 100 miles and do not jack the car when rechecking the torque
i run 42 psi front and 36 psi rear tire pressure so i must also adjust tire pressure when doing a tire rotation, but even if you are running the same pressure front and rear, now is a good time to check the tire pressure
one final comment, if you have locking wheel lug bolts, loosen the locking lug first and tighten it last
scott
Last edited by bmwr606; Aug 22, 2012 at 06:28 PM. Reason: added comment on wheel locking lug bolts
Fly, Bmw
Thank you for the detailed info - I really appreciate your insight into how to change out my tires, I would have never thought of checking for directional tires.
Also, I found the following jack spacer @ outmotoring.com, have one on order.
http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop...ad_spacer.html
Thank you for the detailed info - I really appreciate your insight into how to change out my tires, I would have never thought of checking for directional tires.
Also, I found the following jack spacer @ outmotoring.com, have one on order.
http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop...ad_spacer.html
I've always jacked up my R52 one side at a time with a length of 2x4 spanning the side and my floor jack in the center. Will this work with the Countryman, or is it heavy enough to need two jacks at the jacking points?
what i do is use the floor jack under the front jack point and lift both wheels clear of the ground
then i put the oem jack under the rear jack point as additional support, but only use the hand wheel to raise the oem jack
scott
I use the 2x4 method, but rather than jacking right under the side skirt like other MINIs, I jack a little further underneath on the 2x4 shaped part of the frame. Then I put jack stands at each jack point.
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I like the idea of the jack spacer and I might look into the replacement rubber pad but . . .
I was lucky enough to get under my CMS and this is the dealer's jack and the point under the car that they use to lift it.

Not sure the Jack spacer will work unless I get the pad and then, how is it attached?
Plus, if you want to get the car up on all 4 jack stands, how to you get the other side up after the first? 3 ton or 6 ton jack stands? Are there short jack stands that will just get the tires off the ground without raising it so high?
Thanks
I was lucky enough to get under my CMS and this is the dealer's jack and the point under the car that they use to lift it.

Not sure the Jack spacer will work unless I get the pad and then, how is it attached?
Plus, if you want to get the car up on all 4 jack stands, how to you get the other side up after the first? 3 ton or 6 ton jack stands? Are there short jack stands that will just get the tires off the ground without raising it so high?
Thanks
I think my jack stands are 3 ton and I just raise one side then the other, making sure all 4 jack stands are set the same height. If I really want it super high, I'll do it in waves so it doesn't get tilted too crazy.
Jack stand spots are not like the Hardtop. On the CM they are simply slats of steel. Those spacers you ordered probably will not work. I just take my CM to Discount Tire as they rotate free(as I purchased NON Run Flats from them 30 days after taking delivery)
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