New Tires = Wheel Alignment?
New Tires = Wheel Alignment?
I'm getting non-RFT this afternoon. Should I, or do I, need to have a wheel alignment. I'm having the tires done at a local shop (not MINI). I'm pretty clueless about this - I'm always shocked when I open the hood and hamsters don't jump out.
The time to change worn tires is a great time to address alignment, etc.
If you don't, you'll risk accelerated uneven wear on your new tires, and
those well worn tires will give you some good information about your current setup.
Are the tires worn evenly from inside to outside of the tread fairly evenly?
If not, check camber, although rear tires will wear a little more on the inside,
especially if car is lowered and not corrected by adjustable rear control arms,
and fronts will wear a little more on the outside if you corner aggressively a lot.
Did the tires wear a lot more quickly than expected, or are the tread blocks excessively feathered?
Look for excessive toe-in or toe-out. Look for it even if they look ok - it's easy to check and adjust.
(well, the rear is a little harder to adjust than the front, but at least it's adjustable).
Is the tread wear even between the middle and the inner/outer tread?
If so, adjust your target tire pressure.
Wearing more in the edges = pressure too low, bump it up a couple or few pounds,
wearing more at the middle = pressure too high, bleed off a couple or few pounds.
Are the tread blocks scalloped or wearing unevenly longitudinally (around the circumference)?
Look for worn shocks that are making the tire bounce and skip.
None of the above?
Alignment, shocks and tire pressure are likely just fine, put on the new tires and drive
(well, at least check the front toe-in).
If you don't, you'll risk accelerated uneven wear on your new tires, and
those well worn tires will give you some good information about your current setup.
Are the tires worn evenly from inside to outside of the tread fairly evenly?
If not, check camber, although rear tires will wear a little more on the inside,
especially if car is lowered and not corrected by adjustable rear control arms,
and fronts will wear a little more on the outside if you corner aggressively a lot.
Did the tires wear a lot more quickly than expected, or are the tread blocks excessively feathered?
Look for excessive toe-in or toe-out. Look for it even if they look ok - it's easy to check and adjust.
(well, the rear is a little harder to adjust than the front, but at least it's adjustable).
Is the tread wear even between the middle and the inner/outer tread?
If so, adjust your target tire pressure.
Wearing more in the edges = pressure too low, bump it up a couple or few pounds,
wearing more at the middle = pressure too high, bleed off a couple or few pounds.
Are the tread blocks scalloped or wearing unevenly longitudinally (around the circumference)?
Look for worn shocks that are making the tire bounce and skip.
None of the above?
Alignment, shocks and tire pressure are likely just fine, put on the new tires and drive
(well, at least check the front toe-in).
Last edited by cristo; Apr 24, 2012 at 06:32 AM.
The shop where I purchase tires will check the alignment for free when purchasing tires. You only pay for the alignment if it is out of spec and needs adjustment. Might want to ask your shop about the cost of just checking the alignment and you pay if an adjustment is really needed. As make sure to get a printout of the before and after alignment specs for future reference and in case you have a question for this forum about the alignment.
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