1st post 03 MC, 2nd owner 88K

Great Forum-

I’ve researched the many threads regarding the issues with over tight oil plugs and filter housings. I like others have always serviced my own vehicles, with the exception of the last oil changes to an Acura I owned and my wifes Honda. At 52 years old I had finally decided to give a shot to a local Goodyear store. Both vehicles returned home overfilled, the Acura a full qt. over and the Honda was +1.5 qt. INCREDIBLE. Just a testament to the shoddy service provided by supposed ASE certified tech’s. Back to doing my own services.

My (new to me) MC, has the famous stuck oil canister syndrome. I have snapped 3 1/2 to 3/8 adapters using the trick little Lisle 14500 36mm shorty socket and a 1/2 breaker bar. Last nite the adapter that twisted off was of the “impact” quality supposedly. My next attempt will be to use a 6 point 36mm ¾ drive socket shortened on the lathe, with a cheater pipe.
In all of the threads I read, I failed to see that someone had actually broken the filter housing in the attempt at removal-just apply more torque and eventually it will unscrew. Has anyone here ever heard of an instance that the housing sheared or snapped into pieces with the cheater pipe method?

Also,when attempting this procedure “stone cold” is the recommended method? If so, I may hit it with some Freon to help shrink the housing/threads.

I like many, drained my oil ( AFTER WRESTLING THE DRAIN PLUG) and couldn’t get the filter off. So installed the Fumoto valve and put in 4.5 qt..
Cannot fathom why anyone would think the plug or the housing would need to be that tight.


Thanks, V65

 

I just did an oil / filter change on a newly acquired 05 MCS w/ 75k miles. I ended up using a very large cresent wrench going at it from the top as I did not have the nifty little filter adaptor wrench. It worked very well and I did notice the filter was pretty tight compared to typical filter torques. Make sure you change the O ring when doing the service to prevent a leaky oil filter when finished. One upside to the filter setup, there is very little oil left in the housing when engine is shut off, so if the filter is still good, you will change most of the oil if you have to skip a filter change.

You could try squirting some penetrating oil down in to the flange area to lube the O ring which hopefully will allow it to unscrew a little easier.

PS: check the "resetting the service interval" thread started by yours truly that gives a great description on how to on that feature.

 

Appreciate all the input...........J/K

Got the housing to pop loose last nite. 3 ft. cheater pipe -3/4 breaker bar, 3/4 drive 6 point 36mm impact (shortened on the lathe) did the trick. Feel much better now.

 

Glad it all worked out.

I noticed you mentioned oil being overfilled on a couple of oil changes, that can be very detrimental to the operation of the vehicle if the full level is anywhere close to the bottom of the crankshaft. Overfilling can cause a lot of oil whipping by the crank and thus frothing of the oil which means air entrained oil could be cycled through the engines bearings, etc. This will lead to excessive oil temperature and possibly oil bearing wear, so it is always good to restore to the correct level. You can tell if aerated by bubbles on the dipstick right after running. There have also been occurances of incorrect dipsticks being installed, both high and low.