R50/53 Changing your own oil
Changing your own oil
Called the dealer to get my oil changed today and it was 180 bucks with a discount cough rip of cough. Anyone else changing their own oil, i imagine it cant be too difficult i do it all the time on my yukon. Where is the filter located, what size filter does it take. I know it takes synthetic oil. Any other tips common problems. ALSO how do you reset the computer so it starts the counter again for the service reminder?
Thanks
Thanks
I have done it a few times on my 02 MCS. Its no big deal. Look up the how to section on these boards for the specific info on the socket you need for the filter, I think its 34 or 36mm, cant remember. U can get that at pep boys.
Its a bit tight under the car so you will want a decent floor and jackstands, you can get these for $50 or 80 bucks from Pep Boys, it will pay u back after just the first oil change as you can get 5 qts of very nice oil (Royal Purple 5W30 is what i use) for $8-9 bucks a qt and a filter for $5-10 and a oil pan to catch for a few more.
So all told you can change it in under 20 minutes for a bit over $100 if u need a floor jack/jack stands then about $50 bucks after that.
If you have a Cooper S its just behind, down and left of you ignition coil/distributor whatever its called. Ask them at the counter of your local auto parts store (pep boys carries them usually in stock).
As far as resetting do a search on these boards and you will find it.
Short story is its very easy and saves u $$$$$$, plus personally i dont like other people working on my car so its helps there to if u are like me.
Its a bit tight under the car so you will want a decent floor and jackstands, you can get these for $50 or 80 bucks from Pep Boys, it will pay u back after just the first oil change as you can get 5 qts of very nice oil (Royal Purple 5W30 is what i use) for $8-9 bucks a qt and a filter for $5-10 and a oil pan to catch for a few more.
So all told you can change it in under 20 minutes for a bit over $100 if u need a floor jack/jack stands then about $50 bucks after that.
If you have a Cooper S its just behind, down and left of you ignition coil/distributor whatever its called. Ask them at the counter of your local auto parts store (pep boys carries them usually in stock).
As far as resetting do a search on these boards and you will find it.
Short story is its very easy and saves u $$$$$$, plus personally i dont like other people working on my car so its helps there to if u are like me.
its very easy to do...here is another How-to for you!
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ge-how-to.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ge-how-to.html
Make sure you use OEM MINI filters, the cheapo aftermarket ones tend to be too short or the orings will leak.
Make sure you lube the oring when you put it on the housing too.
Make sure you lube the oring when you put it on the housing too.
is it better to change your own oil rather than going to a garage to have it done? It seems it's about $20-$40 more to have it done at a lube shop that doing it yourself.
My second biggest concern is disposing of the used oil and oil filter properly.
My second biggest concern is disposing of the used oil and oil filter properly.
When dealing with the Oil filter socket. Most other sockets that are this size are made for Axle nuts, and are deep-well. That presents a problem if you want to get something like a wrench onto the back of the socket. No local Auto parts stores had one shallow enough, so I had to order one from MINI Mania. Other than that, and both the filter housing, and the drain plug being torqued in so tight I nearly gave myself a hernia trying to get them loose.
Also, avoid "Lube shops". Most people there aren't even educated enough to be real mechanics. There are many stories of MINI engines being damaged/blown up by these people.
Also, avoid "Lube shops". Most people there aren't even educated enough to be real mechanics. There are many stories of MINI engines being damaged/blown up by these people.
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Most of the McParts places offer free oil disposal, I keep mine until I fill up a 5 gallon bucket and then truck it up there. I do my own because I care more about my car than anyone, especially the guy making $x/hour at the quick lube
Craftsman 36mm 1/2 drive works fine for me. Plenty of other threads around here documenting on how to do this. Search is your friend.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ge-how-to.html
Fumoto valve highly recommended. That way no stripped pan plug.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ge-how-to.html
Fumoto valve highly recommended. That way no stripped pan plug.
Very true. I left a lube shop once and noticed the following day while washing my car they left a dirty oily rag under the hood. I would feel more comfortable changing my own oil if I had the proper tools. I guess I will have to invest in some.
All quickie lube shops should be avoided! Oil change is super easy on our cars and pretty clean really. Trickiest part is not cross threading the filter canister when putting it back on. Just go slow and make sure it's threading right and not binding.
Helps to have a garage or access to a buddy's garage...
Helps to have a garage or access to a buddy's garage...
The garage is the biggest issue. I live in an apartment and I have a single car garage but my complex was built in 1922 so my garage is very narrow and shallow. Thus I will need to find a buddy with a garage.
and make sure when you do it yourself, be careful not to strip the drain plug, some a**wipe tightened it too much, i bought the car used and went to do my oil change, couldnt get the plug off. good luck, its not a hard job to do
A driveway works, as well. My garage is very narrow also. You really only need a 36mm and a 13mm socket (along with 1/2" and 3/8" ratchets), or a 13mm box wrench and a drain pan and some paper towels. The car is low, but not so low that you can't do it on the ground (that's what I do)
Do it yourself... it's easy. I do it 2 parts.
The night before... I would loosen the filter housing. Unscrew it just far enough to vent so that oil in the filter would drain. This takes no more than 5 minutes.
Next morning... remove the filter housing with the element in it. Since the residual oil has already drained, you won't spill and single drop. Remove the element & O-ring and install new element & O-ring. Lube new O-ring with oil and re-install the filter housing. Make sure you torque it correctly.
Next, lift car and drain oil. Refill with new oil to correct level. Start car and let engine idle for a few minutes. Check for leaks.
Voila... you're a richer bloke now.
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