Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Dealer suggest repairs totaling.... drum roll...

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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 10:52 AM
  #1  
welcha13's Avatar
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Dealer suggest repairs totaling.... drum roll...

... $2976!

That's with $2140 in labor alone.

Problems are....
-Oil pan gasket leak
-Transmission seal leak (driver side axle)
-Fan replacement (low speed side doesn't work)
-Strut top mounts on the front + alignment
-Front engine mount leaking fluid (I didn't know they were still hydraulic in '06)

Now... aside from the strut top mounts and transmission seal I'm pretty sure this is all DIY capable for me.

Oh, and they failed to tell me what the screeching/rattling noise is I hear when accelerating from idle. :|

Time for the bentley manual!
 

Last edited by welcha13; Sep 17, 2010 at 10:59 AM.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 11:22 AM
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-Front engine mount leaking fluid (I didn't know they were still hydraulic in '06)
Yep, it's hydraulic. In fact, '06 was only the second year for the hydraulic upper engine mount. From '02-04 it was pretty much just a round block of rubber, if I remember correctly.

Both of our '06 MINIs have needed new upper engine mounts, and most of the people I know that have the hydraulic mounts have had to replace them. The good news is that MINI redesigned & improved the mount at some point, so although most people need to replace it once, far fewer people have to replace it more than once.

Also, depending on how badly your mount has leaked and how much your engine is shifting around as a result, the noises you're hearing when pulling away from idle may go away once the new mount's installed. We caught both of ours early enough that they never caused any secondary noises, but I had a friend that was getting a weird "rattle/clunk" whenever he'd accelerate away from a stop, and replacing the leaking mount fixed it.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by welcha13
... $2976! That's with $2140 in labor alone....
Where do you live? There are lots of independent shops out there that will do it much cheaper. MUCH cheaper.

Rich
 
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 03:52 PM
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Yeah....you might be able to cut the $$ by 40-50% by using a non-dealer...still do the simple stuff DIY...save like 60% or so...the mounts can be had for 85$ or so....fan $85 aftermarket...saving you 50% on parts right there...before labor.
 

Last edited by ZippyNH; Sep 18, 2010 at 11:55 AM. Reason: spelling/clarity
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 05:32 PM
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Yes, but changing the fan is NOT a fun DIY job, I've helped on a couple of them for local club members. The motor mount is fairly easy, but you do need a special socket to get the bolt on the bottom out, and be sure you get the socket on good and square or you can strip the head on the bolt and you'll have to cut it off with a die grinder or something.

Likewise, the oil pan gasket is not an easy job, and I question the need for it most of the time since in most cases it's only weeping, not really leaking. If it's not dripping or leaving puddles on the garage floor, I'm not sure I'd bother with it.

So, depending on your tool box and abilities, you certainly can DIY most all of this, but just be aware that the MINI is not an easy car to work on - it's really hard to reach some stuff since they pack so much engine under that little hood.

A good independent shop can really help make owning our cars more affordable.....

BTW, how long has it been since you changed you serpentine belt? That could be your noise, it could also be the tensioner too.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 05:49 PM
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Not really a special socket for the mount, just an E torx. Any hardware store will have them.

Avoid the dealer like the plague for out of warranty work. Where are you located? Perhaps we can help you find a good inde...
 
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MINIdave
Yes, but changing the fan is NOT a fun DIY job,
...
Likewise, the oil pan gasket is not an easy job...

So, depending on your tool box and abilities, you certainly can DIY most all of this, but just be aware that the MINI is not an easy car to work on - it's really hard to reach some stuff since they pack so much engine under that little hood.

BTW, how long has it been since you changed you serpentine belt? That could be your noise, it could also be the tensioner too.
I thought the fan wouldn't be too tough. I'm no newb when it comes to mechanical work. I've done everything except struts, clutch/transmission, and... steering rack. Not on a MINI of course... but I've done everything else. Oh, I haven't changed a crankshaft out. :p
The fan definitely needs to be replaced. The other stuff isn't as important.

I figured the oil pan wouldn't be too hard at all. Is their an engine mount in the way of it? Have to support the engine from above?

I have access to a full garage with lift (automotive course at the college...hehe) and if I don't have a tool I need then I will buy it but I'm pretty well outfitted.

To me the transmission seal looked like the hardest to do since I don't know if the seal pops in from the outside or from the inside. If it's from the outside I could probably manage. I've replaced drive axles on a FWD vehicle before.

I'm located in Gainesville, FL (Sunshine MINIs!) but I don't think I'll be looking for an independent mechanic unless it looks really tough. If I can replace the cylinder head on an eclipse... and a saturn (engine in car) then I think I'll be able to do a fan in a MINI.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 06:47 AM
  #8  
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From: As Far North in NY as You Can Get
Originally Posted by welcha13
-Oil pan gasket leak
-Transmission seal leak (driver side axle)
-Fan replacement (low speed side doesn't work)
-Strut top mounts on the front + alignment
-Front engine mount leaking fluid (I didn't know they were still hydraulic in '06)

Now... aside from the strut top mounts and transmission seal I'm pretty sure this is all DIY capable for me.
Strut tops are probably the easiest thing on the list - and it shouldn't need an alignment after, unless it was aligned with the bad mounts. It is also probably the most critical, as a mount that fails completely can, umm, add to underhood ventilation (i.e. - if the strut rod punches through the hood).
Remove the big nut first (I used a 13/16 spark plug socket w/ a hex-head cast into it, put a wrench on it and an allen through it to get it loose), jack it up, loosen the 3 mounting bolts and lower the wheel assembly. You should be able to get the mounts swapped w/out removing the strut (I did).

If the tops are 'mushroomed', might want to get some 'defenders' to help bring it back...
 
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 06:52 AM
  #9  
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... and agree w/ other posts about the powertrain leaks: if it ain't leaving a puddle (a spot is OK, it's just "marking it's territory" ) or you're not showing it a major show with mirrors under it (didn't think so), I move it down the priority list.

Of course, having free access to a lift is a wonderful thing
 
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 11:21 AM
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I don't think the fan is THAT bad a project, but it does feel a little strange pulling your entire front end apart just to get to it. In most (older) cars, it's just four bolts or so...
 
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 12:00 PM
  #11  
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ZippyNH
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The fan is not that bad...a pain, but big payback!!

Changing the Fan is very much a DIY job...big $$ to be saved in part and labor compared to the dealer....it just takes some resaech...nothing especially hard about it...no real skill...just need the instructions...the girls guide to service mode and a few other post are all you need...that and 4 hrs!!
It looks radical when you do the fan....but it is not that hard....just a few bolts...some labor...and once you know how to do it...you can do almost anything on the mini more quickly in service mode...the extra space can make doing other jobs quicker!!
 
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 09:09 AM
  #12  
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So it seems like the transmission seal has gained top priority.

About three weeks ago the shifting seem a tad rough while previously it was much smoother. I decided I should make sure the transmission fluid was full and it took a whole quart of fluid (Amsoil) to level it off!

It was smooth after that but now it's back to feeling a little bit rough on occasion. There's only 1.5 quarts in there and if I've lost a quart in the few weeks then that's a big deal!

Anyway, the job itself doesn't actually look too difficult. It was actually one of the cheaper jobs on the list from the dealer.
My problem is finding this "Transmission output flange seal protector". It's supposed to go around the seal at the transmission so you don't damage it when you're putting the axle back in. I think that might be why it is leaking in the first place.

I believe it's bad of plastic. It is listed as BMW tool 24-8-120.
These things look like it but it could easily be the wrong size/diameter since it is for GM.
http://www.etoolcart.com/AXLE-SEAL-P...R-J-44394.aspx
 
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