Got the Break Light on!
Got the Break Light on!
Hi all,
I got the light (0) on the dash, which according to the manual it is time to replace the brakes pads. I am curious if anybody knows, how much longer do I have till I really need to replace. I probably just order the pads and have my local mechanic replace them. (Apartment dweller and only car)
Also, anybody got the Greenstuff Brake Pads with stock rotors? Can I get the front and rear rotors sensors to work with these. I am not really looking for race ones, I had them on an acura in the past, the noise etc was too much.
I got the light (0) on the dash, which according to the manual it is time to replace the brakes pads. I am curious if anybody knows, how much longer do I have till I really need to replace. I probably just order the pads and have my local mechanic replace them. (Apartment dweller and only car)
Also, anybody got the Greenstuff Brake Pads with stock rotors? Can I get the front and rear rotors sensors to work with these. I am not really looking for race ones, I had them on an acura in the past, the noise etc was too much.
After searching a bit, it looks like the Carbotech pads are very nice, but they are very pricy, and a bit hard to find.
I also noticed that Akebono Euro Ceramic Pads are on sale at tirerack at $68/74 low dust is a plus since I got white wheels.
I also noticed that Akebono Euro Ceramic Pads are on sale at tirerack at $68/74 low dust is a plus since I got white wheels.
Check out some of the NAM vendors, it's where I got my Carbotechs from.
That light means the pad is GONE and you've worn the metal pieces on the sensor together completing the circuit for the light. You'll need new sensors to make the light go away and you need to get replacement pads installed ASAP. Also the sensors are only on 2 of the 8 pads, so unless you inspect all for wheels you don't know how long the other pads may have been at a similar point.
Also OEM rotors tend to be soft, if your pad is all but gone then you want to give extra attention to the condition of the rotors and consider replacing them as well (factory recommended with every pad change though my mileage has varied with pre-emptive pad changes).
That light means the pad is GONE and you've worn the metal pieces on the sensor together completing the circuit for the light. You'll need new sensors to make the light go away and you need to get replacement pads installed ASAP. Also the sensors are only on 2 of the 8 pads, so unless you inspect all for wheels you don't know how long the other pads may have been at a similar point.
Also OEM rotors tend to be soft, if your pad is all but gone then you want to give extra attention to the condition of the rotors and consider replacing them as well (factory recommended with every pad change though my mileage has varied with pre-emptive pad changes).
Also, it has happened where the sensor has actually NOT worn and the sensor was just faulty. (Happened to my front sensor)
So, my simple advice to you is to just pull off your wheel and examine the brake pads FIRST before buying any. You might just need a new sensor!
Last edited by JustinGTP; Aug 22, 2010 at 12:02 PM.
I've run EBC greens on both my 02 and 07 for years; put them on the 07 a few weeks into ownership - in both cases with stock rotors.
EBC greens were among the first aftermarket pads to come with the sensor slots back in GEN1 days; no problem there.
Concur to verify pad wear with a quick visiual check but probability is you are due - but perhaps not due all the way around but just the fronts - or the rears - depending on when they were last done. If you have a relatonship with this local mech' - and trust him/her - they should be able to tell you in 5 minutes or less. Rule of thumb is to look at the pad - sometimes possible without even pulling the wheel - if the pad material is thinner then the pad backing plate - replace the pads.
Technical correction - the sensor works by wearing until a loop of wire embedded in the sensor breaks. This open circuit causes the light to come on and the light will only clear when this circuit is closed: usually by replacing the sensor but you can also disect the sensor and splice the wires. This renders the sensor 'useless' but allows you to clear the light and rely on good ol' eyeball checks in the future.
MINI rotors are soft and MINI/BMW says do not re-surface them rather use new rotors with every pad change. I'm a pretty easy driver and have successfully gone two sets of pads to a set of rotors and done so for several others I do pad work for. Your call there. If you just want OEM quality rotors you can probably find a decent rotor at a good autopart store. Plain rotors are pretty simple things and installation should not cost much more as doing the pads gets you 80% of the way there.
EBC greens were among the first aftermarket pads to come with the sensor slots back in GEN1 days; no problem there.
Concur to verify pad wear with a quick visiual check but probability is you are due - but perhaps not due all the way around but just the fronts - or the rears - depending on when they were last done. If you have a relatonship with this local mech' - and trust him/her - they should be able to tell you in 5 minutes or less. Rule of thumb is to look at the pad - sometimes possible without even pulling the wheel - if the pad material is thinner then the pad backing plate - replace the pads.
Technical correction - the sensor works by wearing until a loop of wire embedded in the sensor breaks. This open circuit causes the light to come on and the light will only clear when this circuit is closed: usually by replacing the sensor but you can also disect the sensor and splice the wires. This renders the sensor 'useless' but allows you to clear the light and rely on good ol' eyeball checks in the future.
MINI rotors are soft and MINI/BMW says do not re-surface them rather use new rotors with every pad change. I'm a pretty easy driver and have successfully gone two sets of pads to a set of rotors and done so for several others I do pad work for. Your call there. If you just want OEM quality rotors you can probably find a decent rotor at a good autopart store. Plain rotors are pretty simple things and installation should not cost much more as doing the pads gets you 80% of the way there.
Since it seems like labor is not really too much of an difference, it comes down to if I want to get new rotors. TSW ($230) ones look nice for the bling factor.
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One the light comes on you have about 10% left on that pads with the sensor.
I have installed Hawk pads and liked them a lot. The only problem I have with the EBC pads are the clips on the front that hold the pads in the caliper come loose even as you install them. Same with the rear pads.
I have installed Hawk pads and liked them a lot. The only problem I have with the EBC pads are the clips on the front that hold the pads in the caliper come loose even as you install them. Same with the rear pads.
After some more searching, I think I am going to go with the Carbotechs street performance ones with the Zimmerman rotors that WMW offers. I think I gonna skip the SS brakelines and invest in the pads since the SS lines don't improve breaking. I probably call Way tomorrow and get him to send me the inventory.
Is this a burned out bulb, or is the red plastic lens broken? Either one will get you a ticket and a fine.
If it's the bulb, you can replace it, many stores sell bulbs, they are only a few dollars. (Wal-Mart even sells them)
Your owner's manual has a section that tells you how to replace the bulbs. It's pretty simple.
If the lens is broken, you can fix it temporarily with some tape. Get a roll of lens tape from a department store or parts store. That will keep you from getting a ticket until you can get a replacement lens.
If it's the bulb, you can replace it, many stores sell bulbs, they are only a few dollars. (Wal-Mart even sells them)
Your owner's manual has a section that tells you how to replace the bulbs. It's pretty simple.
If the lens is broken, you can fix it temporarily with some tape. Get a roll of lens tape from a department store or parts store. That will keep you from getting a ticket until you can get a replacement lens.
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