Drivers side door lock stopped working with FOB, but manually locked with key, but the other doors locked/unlocked with FOB. So I thought it was the drivers door actuator, replaced it myself.

Nope. Same problem.

So I noticed the windows on both doors no longer move that tiny amount when the door is opened and closed. Tried to reinitialize the windows, nope.

So I noticed the convenience feature to open/close all windows no longer works either.

Also the windows seem to randomly work for periods, drivers works, then stops but the passengers will work, then stops and the drivers works again?!?

Could it be the FZV module failed? If so anyone find a part# for it?

Any ideas?

 

I meant FZV module does that control any of this stuff?

Bump?

 

So.... I guess it is called the Central Locking Receiver (FZV). Probably something in German.

 

Now that I found more info, it is sounding like the BC1 or body control module. A $400+ part.

 

Before you buy, make sure you don't have any blown fuses or relays.

 

Yeah, no blown fuses. Too many different things going goofy.

Xenon lights no longer self adjust.
Doors locks pretend to lock when you just insert key in ignition.
Erraticaly working windows.
Drivers door does not lock/unlock with FOB.
Windows do not adjust upon open/close of door.
Convenience open/close of windows does not work with either the key or FOB.

It is a part that requires programming at the dealership also.

I am just trying to make sure they have the part in stock before I make an appointment and drive 1.5 hours each way to 'diagnose' and repair at the nearest dealer.

Right now they seem incompetent enough they cannot tell me if they have the part... or to make an appointment... or the service department to answer the phone. Bunch of muppets.

 

That sounds like a low or dead battery. Many things act weird when they are about to die.

 

12.3v measured, green light = good.

I reset the car by unplugging battery, no change.

 

12.3v measured, green light = good.

I reset the car by unplugging battery, no change.

 

Yeah, that may very well be the BC1 module. Here's a thread on some BC1 troubleshooting: https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/181887-questions-regarding-bc1-replacement.html. This article has a link toward the bottom for a remanufactured BC1 module: http://forum.minicooper.org/showthread.php?t=9924. I could not find an OEM part number.

 

Also noticed the headlight washers no-longer spray.

 

http://forum.minicooper.org/showthread.php?t=9924

Interesting about a remanufactured unit, except from reading through various threads it must be programmed by the dealer to take on all the functionality. That it is basically a 'vanilla' unit that goes in MINI's and many BMW's untill it is programmed to the car.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...laced-bcm.html

 

Yeah, that's what I read, too. Kinda stinks like that. More than likely the dealership has to program it to make sure you have the same body options turned on. Only other thing that comes to mind is reseating the module connectors. But I highly doubt that will fix the problem (if the module is in fact bad).

I was looking up another issue in my Bentley manual, and I noticed the older R53 MCS' have additional fusible links on the bottom side of the large fuse box under the bonnet. Here's the instructions on how to get to them:

1. Disconnect battery negative terminal in boot.
2. Remove engine control module (left of fuse box) and air filter housing. Each connector has a locking slider that goes outward.
3. Detach current supply cable lug at rear of fuse panel.
4. Remove fuse panel mounting screws.
5. Lift panel and turn over. Remove bottom cover. FL1 and FL2 are for the BC1 module. A simple ohm meter would tell you whether or not they have blown.

 

Yeah found nothing more.

I did find a used BC1, but after speaking with the dealership you cannot reuse it since once the VIN is programmed into it permanently. Or so they say.

Off to the dealership for the diagnosis and a$$ ramming.

 

Somehow I cracked the wiring harness connector to the door actuator when I installed it was causing most of the door locking gremlins. So my original door actuator was bad.

The bad news if you crack that little plastic connector, you basically have to replace the entire wiring harness to the door. Or take an old wiring harness and splice that part onto yours.

Windows not working, that is just junk window motors that all BMW/MINI's have and are an inherent problem. Fonzie fix it until it dies, then just buck up ~$400 to repair each. Dealer charges $450 book rate per window.

No BC1, BCM problem for now.

 

Can you super glue the part in question? Also, if that works, then, try to look out for a possible short.......sometimes using black electrical tape might help those shorts that can't be found.

 

Not the way it broke, not at all. You have to be very very carefull when you remove it from the actuator.

 

Wondering if you call a Mini junkyard for the wiring harness? Or check around some body shop (that has some yanked out). There's a local Mini scrap dealer in So CA, Miniworld, but maybe thre's some more local to you in your part of the state

 

It is already fixed by the dealer, they are about 1.5 hours away. They took an old wiring harness they kept around for just such an occasion and took the clip w/wires and spliced it on to mine and done. They just charged me ALOT of labor. Basically I ended up spend about the same as if I had just taken it to the dealer in the first place to replace the actuator. Oh well.

Window motor problems is just the common problem. They charge a flat book rate of $450 ea!

 

Ok so did this fix the door locking problem? cuz my '03 MCS is doing the exact same thing right now except with both doors and the hatch. But my comfort open feature still works (the windows stick several times on the way down but it works) and my car started chiming anytime my drivers door is open. I reset it by disconnecting the battery (didnt work) and the batter is less than a year old. Im starting to get worried this is going to be quite a pricey fix.

 

Yes, but yours seems different if all three do not lock. Not sure what to tell you there.

Mine was just the actuator failed, and the window motors are junk as we all know. Although I think there are a couple other minor electrical gremlins that I am just ignoring at this point.

 

I'm new here, and I was looking, before creating a new thread, to see if anyone else posted about a problem similar to mine. This kind of seems similar. My passenger window does not fully close and stays at the "door open" position. The driver window closely correctly. No lights flash when locking the car with the fob, although the lights will flash when unlocking the car with the fob (until a few days ago, lights flashed when locking the car with the fob).

No other problems - yet. It's a 2006.

Would I have any of the problems mentioned in this thread, or is something else wrong? What can I DIY to fix it?

 

You might try 'reprogramming the window', there is an adjustment that might work. Search around NAM how to do it, something about you have to to hold the window toggle down for 10 seconds.

Lights lock flashing... dunno.