R50/53 Wheelhop, help!
Wheelhop, help!
I have an issue with my 04 MCS. In a straight line just layin down rubber she is smooth, no hop or bucking, but in low speed corners as I power out (and this is under hard acceleration), my inner wheel will wheel hop like a no bodies business. Now it is not every single time but it is pretty regular. I have powerflex control arm bushings, sway bar, and rack bushing. Is this common because it has just started, I have about 8000 on the powerflex bushings. May one of the under chassis braces help.
I'm running general exclaim uhp's on stock s-heavies, i'm actually not sure if the car has a limited slip or not being i bought the car used, I personally believe i do not because of what I consider excessive inner wheel spin though low speed corners accompanied be my wheelhop. And i know the exclaims are crap but at the time I was driving pretty far for work (offshore crane tech). I wanted something with a long life.
I bet the P-flex bushings are the culprit. These bushings greatly limit the control arm movement.
The stock fluid-filled bushings are much more compliant and will allow the wheel to remain planted on the road.
Check out the video in post #26 of this thread.
The stock fluid-filled bushings are much more compliant and will allow the wheel to remain planted on the road.
Check out the video in post #26 of this thread.
Those arent powerflex bushings in the video...
This problem is very common (or at least frequently complained about) in the Nissan B15 Spec-V world. The simple solution is replacing the rubber bushings between the subframe and the uni-body with metal washers. This basically stiffens up the front suspension their cars, which is probably what you need to do in your case. Yes the suspension is what hold the car up, but it is also what keeps the rubber in contact with the ground.
If I may go into conjecture momentarily. If one subscribes to the idea of the suspension's job being to keep the rubber in contact with the ground that would suggest a suspension component is not applying enough pressure to one of the wheels when it starts to travel (upward in this case). This could be the result of springs being too soft, springs being under damped, or both (it is a relationship, different spring rates require a different damping rates). I would go with under damping, which is indicative of a bad strut.
This problem is very common (or at least frequently complained about) in the Nissan B15 Spec-V world. The simple solution is replacing the rubber bushings between the subframe and the uni-body with metal washers. This basically stiffens up the front suspension their cars, which is probably what you need to do in your case. Yes the suspension is what hold the car up, but it is also what keeps the rubber in contact with the ground.
If I may go into conjecture momentarily. If one subscribes to the idea of the suspension's job being to keep the rubber in contact with the ground that would suggest a suspension component is not applying enough pressure to one of the wheels when it starts to travel (upward in this case). This could be the result of springs being too soft, springs being under damped, or both (it is a relationship, different spring rates require a different damping rates). I would go with under damping, which is indicative of a bad strut.
Last edited by Some Guy; Jun 29, 2009 at 09:49 PM.
With proper technique, you can drive quickly while eliminating inner wheel spin. Then the wheel hop won't be an issue at all.
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I would like to think that my technique is adequate when I am actually trying to go fast on a track day, in other words that is not how I drive on track, but I noticed this "wheelhop" during pounding it down on the street and even though I can drive without wheelspin the wheelhop should still not be there as it was not there 6-8k miles ago. I am really starting to wonder it it is not the power flex's cause they are a 2 peice design which under heavy load would allow more lateral movement than the stock bushings (I have installed both powerflex's and stock bushings), in my personal opinion the stock bushings are too compliant hence the fact that they don't last but 50k miles. my only other concern is that something could just be loose, I haven't had a chance to put the car up on the rack at work but hopefully this week I'll get it up for a looksee.
I watched the video of the solid "hard plastic" but the powerflex bushing is multipeice allowing the control arm to move just as easy or easier than the stock bushings.
I watched the video of the solid "hard plastic" but the powerflex bushing is multipeice allowing the control arm to move just as easy or easier than the stock bushings.
Last edited by V73W; Jun 29, 2009 at 10:43 PM.
I also agree, I think the struts are gonna be the main culprit, I finally got the car up to look at it and it looks like the drivers side is leaking, not much but if it's leaking it's definately bad. Now what should I run for struts, I really want adjustables I've had experience with kyb agx's they were pretty great for the price but I have not seen any for the mini's, koni yellows I don't know much about but I know koni is a good company, and tokico, I've had lots of friends that run them on mustangs and they seemed pretty good. So what is ya'lls vote?
You're positive its maybe not just your tires/wheels being out of balance? My mini started this about 2000 miles ago, hopping when I was moving slow (15-25) and especially when I turned. The weights they use to balance the tires are the sticky ones because the clip ons will damage our wheels. I checked my wheels out and some of those were missing from coming loose and flying off at some point. Had them balanced and rotated and no problem after that. Again, my sister had this prob in her car because her cv-joint was bad but it was a bit more extreme.


