Headed to the Dragon this year, woooohoo !

And I think my Control Arm Bushings need replacing.

I have 66,000 miles on my 03' MCS which has "darting" issues on uneven pavement.

Other than that I have no drivability isssues but considering all those twisties, I thought it would be a safe move.

Anyone have an idea what it would cost for dealer done Control Arm Bushing replacement / Alignment

 

I did it last week on my '04 MCS with 79K; long overdue. Parts about $130; labor at an independent shop $340 (Dealer wanted over $800 parts and labor.) Some recommend an alignment following this, but I did not get one.

 

I'd get the Power Flex bushings from NAM Member, http://www.mossmini.com/Shop/ViewPro...eIndexID=36704

and check around for an indy shop to find the pricing JA Blazer found. I'd get the alignment sooner then later because if you need one after the bushing install you may not know it till it's too late and then you may need to buy tires too. An alignment cost much less then tires.

 

~ Ok, thanks.......

Must be an involved project for some 3 1/2 hrs book time to replace both arms.

Thanks for the help.

 

I was looking at those.

I have read here somewhere that a special tool is needed to press them into the control arms, and that replacing the whole arm was easier and less expensive ?

 

I got my Powerflex kits from www.waymotorworks.com (NAM sponsor)

My independent MINI mechanic handled the installation to the tune of $75 per hour labor (3-4 hour job as subframe was dropped).

Then the installation was followed by a 4 wheel alignment (Another $100).

So the labor (including alignment) came to $512 and parts $200. So after all was said and done, the whole job came out to $712. Not bad at all, considering the dealer charges $1,100 to install the same crappy soft rubber bushings the car came with from factory.

 

While your mileage is kind of up there and changing these bushings is a definite plus, are you sure your tires aren't causing the "darting" effect?

 

^^^ the tire question is good. It could also be a front wheel bearing. The bearing is easy to know, just jack up the front and spin the wheel and listen for grinding sound. If you hear the grinding, get the hub/bearing replaced ASAP.

As far as the bushing install. It's a PIA and is proof that Tech's are not expensive they are Priceless! Yes it can be done at home with basic tools and there are a few threads on NAM about doing it. Having done mine and helped with a few others it's not a job I'd do again.

 

Without having access to the BMW bushing tool or shop press, it is easier to replace the bracket and bushing as an assembly, not the arm.

It will help to know where you are located so we can point you to an area shop.

The OE bushing is the best.

 

The OE bushing durability is horrible. The rubber falls apart in less than 50K miles. May be acceptable to you as you are a well seasoned shade tree mechanic and know how to replace them frequently.

For the rest of us.... Powerflex baby! The best!

 

My R&R skills have little to do with my assessment of poly bushings, other than they provide hands on exposure to the “real” way the arm is designed to move. Poly bushings restrict movement of the control arm's pivot shaft to only one center axis, the R53 arm was designed to articulate on more than one axial plane, which contributes to the R53’s stable camber, toe, and anti-torque steer characteristics. Poly control arm bushings also cause bind at the upper and lower limits of travel. I have a condom analogy I’ll keep to myself.

 

Thanks very much for all input guys.

Fatherdeath brought up good point about the tires. When I noticed this, I was running Goodyear runflats on S-lite rims. I just mounted my new summer set up with new All Season tires and will travel the road where I found this darting phenomena to be most prevelent and drive it tomorrow.

I'll jack her up and take a look at other possibilities as well. Should be warmer for this during weekend ...... hopefully ( 12 degrees today......)

 

The reason I brought this up, is because certain tire's compound and tread design are great for a while, but once they start wearing down, can cause erratic tracking, especially on a car with such a tight steering system. I run Parada Spec IIs, possibly my favorite tires. When these tires wear down though, they are loud and cause the car to exhibit traits that you mentioned. I always suggest checking into your tires for these symptoms, just to save a little money possibly.