So a couple weeks ago I did my first "real" maintenance job on the Mini - a full front brake change. It went shockingly easily; at least until I got to the rotors. That blasted torx bolt is frozen in there something fierce... Now, I should be practically a pro at frozen-bolt removal after living through a '71 Datsun restoration, but I can't make this thing budge! I've tried a bunch of different tools and techniques over the past few weekends, and the damn thing just keeps getting rounder and rounder . I'm going to borrow a pneumatic impact gun this weekend and see if that'll work, but I think the bolt is too far gone. This of course means I get to destroy the thing so I can use an easy-out on it. I've read a couple times that the bolt serves no real function other than locating the rotor, and it's OK to opperate without it... True? Or do I need to pay the dealer a visit for a replacement?

 

You can live without the bolt. Many aftermarket rotors (especially bigger rotors) do not have a hole for the bolt. However, if it was me I would eventually get a replacement bolt because it is nice to hold the rotor in place.

 

once the caliper is bolted on the MINI the rotor will stay put for tire install. You don't need the bolt.

 

Have you tried heating it? Get a torch and make that sucker red hot.

 

did you have your impact on 'R' instead of 'F'?

 

I ran into a similar issue with a Honda. My impression is that they are just there for assembly. Once you torque down the wheels there wont be any issue of it moving. For the Honda I resolved the issue finally by using a hammer driven impact wrench. It was a tool I wasn't aware of until i did the brake job, but it worked well with a tool steel bit digging into the screw before stripping it. That was with a Philips screw, not sure how effective it will be on the stupid torx.

 

The person who invented torx should be shot! I hate torx...Oh there is another fastener called multi-spline or Bristol. They are almost like torx and almost like allen or hex head. They are used on BeechCraft avionics control panels. They are the little set screws that hold the ***** on the radio control heads.

 

I have heated it, to no avail. As long as the thing is threaded normally, I've been going the right direction (I hope, LoL!).

If I do end up without the bolt, I'll probably snag one from the dealer when I eventually make my way in there. Unless it's really "heavy", in which case I could leave it off to improve unsprung weight... LoL.

 

did you try soaking the bolt with a loosening lubricant? try that and knock the rotor with a beadblow hammer thats how I got mine loose when I did my rotors.

 

Next time do as above has suggested and spray with W-D40 and let soak. Then get an impact wrench from the beginning and it will come right off. If an air impact wrench is an issue Harbor Freight has an electric that is regularly onsale for $40.

 

I soaked with WD40 from front and back, heated them, impacted on them, for two hours. I then got on them with a longer wrench for more torque and they finally popped loose. Two broken torx sockets, the third survived. Extra torx bolt still in the tool box. They aren't that expensive to buy from the dealer.

1-1/2 years ago Chad got them off using a torch and made it look easy. I only had a propane torch and it took much longer.

Next time, I'll start a week early with the WD40.

 

When I did it, came out with one simple procedure "excessive brute force"

 

PB Blaster > WD40

 

+1. CRC makes a Power Lube as well. They also have a "cryo" effect lube for frozen bolts. I've seen it advertised in car restoration. I'll try it on an exhaust swap I've been meaning to do.

 

Had the same issue with my 97 Integra GSR - one came out clean and the other side wouldn't budge. I finally used a drill so I could use an easy out and the head snapped clean off allowing me to remove the rotor. I could then grab the stub with a vise grip and remove it.

 

Just had the same problem on my '03 MCS. Changed pads and rotors last weekend, and too many salty winters had "welded" one of the torx screws to the hub. I tried a torch, PBlaster, swearing, nothing worked. Brought it to a friends' shop and we ultimately whacked the rotor off the hub with a 5-lb sledge. The rotor cracked around the screw, which could then be heated with a torch and then removed. The rotor acted as a heat-sink, taking all the heat away from the screw. Funny, but after touching up the screw on a wire wheel, we reused it (with anti-seize)!
Ian

 

The thing that irks me most is that this is the only bolt that's frozen, you know? When I work on my Z, I simply assume everything will be frozen, and I soak everything with PB days in advance. With the MINI, everything else in the same area (theoretically exposed to similar environmental conditions) just came right off, so I got complacent. It caught me off guard, darnit! (That, and I think I destroyed my PB in a fit of rage while "attempting" to fix my 944, so I'm stuck with lesser penetrating oil...)

 

When I get stupid fasteners like this one out, I often replace them with something that has a more mechanic-friendly head. I also apply lots of anti-seize compound with the new fastener.

 

Dont forget that the wheels also like to stick to the hubs. I have it only happen to me slightly, but I have read stories about people needing deadblow's to get their wheels off.

 

I have a handy manual tool for just such occasions. It's called an "impact screwdriver". You twist the handle to set it for "loosen" or "tighten", and insert the appropriate bit into the business end. When you hit the tool with a hammer, the force of the hammer blow keeps the bit in contact with the fastener while the bit turns. As long as the fastener is part of something solid that's not going to move out of the way under the force of the hammer blow, it'll unstick pretty much anything without the bit "camming out" of the fastener and hogging out the fastener.

 

+1 Been doing it this way for years. PB blaster, MAP torch, and Impact driver.

Alex

 

Another option is when you get the new car is remove the screw and apply anti seize lube or molycote grease. That will make it lot easer to remove later on.

 

A great idea, only on hardware that doesn't require a specific torque value - like this set torx.

Alex

 

We use luberaplate on the bolt that holds the power turbine wheel in a PT6 turboprop engine. It runs at an average of 720* centigrade. At hot section inspection the bolt comes out with no effort.

 

I can't imagine why some PB Blaster overnight, some heat from a map torch, a fresh T50 socket, breaker bar and cheater bar on it with a quick jerk wouldn't break the bolt.

I just put a JCW kit on an '03 MINI with 100k+ miles and the set bolts came out with just an impact driver.