Is there a way to release the pressure in the caliper without opening the brake fluid system? I would imagine I could turn the car on which would allow the caliper to relax, then I could use a firm, flat, wide object to depress the piston allowing me to install new pads. No?

Please advise .

 

I use a C-clamp. Put one side on the back of the caliper and the other on an old pad against the piston and slowly tighten it up. If you don't have one, they are pretty cheap at any hardware store.

 

OK so I was afraid to admit that's my method too, but the piston does not seem to want to budge? Am I just whussin on the crank? I would hate to break something. Any thoughts on starting the car without there being any pads installed over a rotor? I have this fear of the piston rocketing out of the sleeve or something crazy.

 

Have you tried taking the cap off of the reservoir? It'll probably spill some if you don't siphon some out.

 

OK - short answer here

have you read the DIY guide here from Octane Guy?

Break

The Haynes book says open the bleeder valve to allow easy pressing back of the caliber w/out introducing bad fluid back into the system. Their logic is solid but I'm of the opinion that not opening the system is as good .... and you can easily press the front pistons back in with a C clamp as noted above to give room for replacement. Did you loosen the resiv' cap?

ON THE REARS on the other hand .... dont forget that the e-brake system requires you turn the piston as you press it back (many posts). The Harbor Freight kit ($20) is a popular solution.....

(have you topped off fluid along the way? Monitor your brake fluid level as you press pistons back in.....)

 

OK so now I should mention that "our plan" worked perfectly for the fronts. I am having trouble with the rear only. The piston just seems so tight....the Ebrake is off. (I think that's mechanical anyway, right? Meaning Cable not Hydrolic)

If i open the reservoir and remove a bit you think that may do it?

 

Thanks for the info...I did not read the DIY

I will release the res cap to see if that helps. When I am depressing the rear piston, which way does it turn to accommodate for e-brake? Going to find Octane's link....

 

DANGER WILL ROBINSON....DANGER

ON THE REARS on the other hand .... dont forget that the e-brake system requires you turn the piston as you press it back (many posts). The Harbor Freight kit ($20) is a popular solution.....

as I recall the turn is CW

 

Yeah, but i don't have HF near by.......any chance you can elaborate a lil?

 

You need to turn the rears as you press back

I belive the direction is clockwize but truthfully since the tool controls this....

But the rears MUST be turned as they are pressed back.....r they won't go.

 

OK cool, so I found the link OctaneGuy has and while I don't have the HF kit like that, I do have a very similar tool. Instead of the piston sized plates, I have a flat piece or 1/8 steel. It would have to be clockwise in order to be done at the same time as depressing the piston I think. Gonna give it a shot.

 

I think ur good ...


the HF tool has the same twist of every similar tool I've seen

 

Good Luck.....we're all counting on you. - Airplane the Movie

 

Mission complete! Ready to motor! Thanks for the tips as always!

 

Good job, say out of the ditches!