Does anyone know if there is a front camber kit available for the mini? Kit produces a fixed amount of neg camber...

Also, when using camber plates... will they raise up the front of the car at all?

Cheers

 

Search: key word "Camber plates" Look up Helix plates.

Please read other threads before posting silly questions

 

For fixed camber plates, check out Ireland Engineering at www.bmw2002.com

Some will raise, some will lower, some will stay the same. Usually it's mentioned in the part description. If not, do a search for threads here about camber plates....they've all been discussed to great lengths.

 

We carry the IE fixed and adjustable plates and the TSW plates none of them raise the MINI.

 

If you are thinking of going with a fixed camber kit, you might want to measure your stock camber first to see if the fixed kit will work well for you. Sometimes the Minis vary greatly in the side to side camber and the fixed plates do not work well. For example, when stock my Mini had about -0.3 on left side and about -1.4 on right side. A fixed camber bearing would not have worked well because I would have ended up with too much negative camber on the right side, thus I had to go with the more expensive adjustable camber plates so that I could also even out the camber side to side.

Most of the adjustable camber plates have two advantages over the fixed bearings. 1) They eliminate the concern about strut tower mushrooming so strut reinforcement plates are not required. 2) They eliminate the top rubber bearing that frequently rip/tear and need replacement.

I used the H-Sport (Hotchkis) adjustable camber plates and they did not change the ride height. Some (such as Helix) will increase height by about 3/16".

 

Not everyone is familiar with the quirky NAM search function, nor might they be your equal in terms of suspension expertise. Ergo, there's no need to be rude and set back international relations with our Aussie motoring mates. Try a little patience please.

 

How do people like this function in the real world?

Auscoops, I'd probably get the TSW plates, but i've also heard that the Helix plates are great.

What was said above about the adjustable vs fixed was well said, if you're not intending to ever get more or less than around 2 deg neg camber up front, then the fixed plates would be quieter.

 

Thanks for the replies.

Just for clarification, i have had cars over time with minimal adjustment available through a camber pin kit, see http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-850/Susp...2-151-693-460/

I was wondering if the Mini has the same ability, and if anyone offers this type of harware.

I may have to look into the top camber plates after all!

 

They don't Just a rude nubie
auscoops, sounds like you are a great candidate for IE fixed plates (2 degrees and don't raise your car).
Call or email Chad @ Detroit Tuned (vendor here) and he will fix you up.

 

Dude~ I am not a "rude nubie". I search and read A LOT before I post questions.

 

...there are no silly questions...and if some of our fine folk used the search function only, we might never learn about some of the newer products. Just a thought...

 

Your response to auscoops indicated that you are both
Lighten up Dude, this was not a silly question

 

Actually, in theory, the IE offers no increase in stack height, but in practice if you want to use them for their intended purpose (adding camber), you must add spacers below the 'puck' to clear the OEM top perch. It took 2 spacers per side to clear my stock upper perch and run -2.0 in front. This amounted to about half an inch increase in stack height and was noticable in how the car looked. Also, the IE plates use black oxide hardware that rusts and my pair weren't thoroughly machined....tapped threads ended before the hole did, causing many headaches.

The TSW for intents and purposes appears to be one of the best out there...I'd have given them a whirl had the good folks from TX had them ready in time.

still, there's a lot of room between being helpful and being an *** - we all know the search function on NAM has MUCH to be desired. Roland is good peeps and didn't deserve that type of reply.

 

The MINI's have virtually no camber adjustment up front. Did the other cars you owned have macpherson struts up front?

 

the R56 has some slotting to the front holes. Depending on how much you need, should be able to add a little up front on the R53 by carefully doing the same with a dremel.

 

how much neg camber are you looking for?

 

Prob -1.75 for a street car...

 

Hmmm hehe would want to mess it up..

 

At the risk of having somebody bust my chops for a stupid question. While we are on the subject of Camber Plates. I purchased a set of IE plates used. I am getting ready to install. Will I need a spring compressor to do the job or will the spring stay compressed when I take of the original off?

 

You'll need a spring compressor. You can rent them from your local autozone for free

 

Wow, quick answer. Thanks! I have an outer ball joint removal tool will I need something different for removing the tie rod from the steering knuckle?

 

Why are you removing the tie rod from the steering knuckle?

 

Well, I was looking at a manual that said I needed to but I am under the car right now and am wondering my self. Looks like I need to just remove the control arm below the strut assembly and the tie rod, loosen from the engine bay and drop the strut assemble out? Correct?

 

Yah, if all you're trying to do is remove the strut, you don't need to touch the tie rod. One bolt at the bottom, three at the top and it should come out (with a little turning and twisting to get it loose).

 

Rally@stancedesign has it correct. Remove the big bolt on the bottom of shock and the three top bolts, in the engine compartment, on the strut tower. For the front you will also need to unbolt the sway bar end link from the strut. It takes an allen wrench to hold the bolt end link both while you remove the nut with a wrench. For the rear, if you have both rear tires off the ground and fairly even, you do not need to remove the sway bar end links because there will not be much twisting force being applied. If you just do one side at a time, you will need to unbolt the rear sway bar end link due to the force applied from the twisting.

As stated you will need a spring compressor, to add the plate at the top of the strut. After the struct is out of the car, you will also need to be able to remove the top shock nut. On the front the nut is recessed into the top strut mount so a regualr wrench will not work. You need an allen wrench to hold the shock shaft from turning and a deep well socket (with hex top) to turn the nut. You use a wrench to turn the socket with the allen wrench going through the socket (where the rachet would attach) to hold the shaft. I use a spark plug socket because it has a hex head at the top. The rear is not so recessed so a regular wrench can be used. An impact wrench can be used to remove the shock nut (without the allen wrench and socket) but the impact is not a good way to install the nut because it is too easy to overtighten the nut or for the nut to torque-up before it is really tight enough on te shaft (which will cause a klunking noise).