I installed my JCW kit today and have these pieces left over. I'm embarassed to say that even being in the bodyshop business, I don't know what these pieces are for.

Anyone know?




The long pieces are roughly 8-10" long and the arrow looking pieces (6 of them) are about 4" long.

The dealer doesn't know.

Anyone?

Thanks,

Mark

 

The longish parts belong on the bottom of the rear bumper.

The claw looking things are the grills on the door sill side vent.

Shame on you and you call yourself a body man LOL...

http://motoringfile.com/howto/jcw_aero_kit.pdf

As punishment you'll have to tell me how to counteract the effects of high humidity when shooting with a hvlp gun and utherane paint.

Did you paint the kit on or off the car? I just finished installing my kit too. I need to do a lot more color sanding in places where I though it wouldnt show.. DOH!

 

OMG, I'm so embarassed.... The kit didn't have any instructions and I completely forgot about the strakes in the little vents on each side rocker moulding.

I'll doublecheck the lower pieces.... I don't remember seeing how they fit. I roughly checked the bumpers but couldn't find matching curves.

(I really sucked at putting the square pegs in the square holes in that round cube game...lol)


The kit was painted off the car, I would NEVER paint ANYTHING on the car.

Now, your question about blushing.... with todays quality urethanes, I'm surprised you are even seeing blushing. Newer urethane paints actually use the moisture in the air to help the urethane cross link (chemically cure). The ironic part is blushing is caused by the absorption of the same moisture that helps cure newer clearcoats.

The best way to combat blushing is to slow your reducer down. It's much like solvent popping. If the clearcoat cures too fast, it encapsulates the moisture and thus you get blushing.

So, slow your reducer down by either adding a bit of retarder OR using a higher temp reducer.

HTH's,

Mark

 

Well, I'll be.... i thought to get the best blending of paint you had to paint the parts on the car. They don't do that anymore?! I guess the paint matching has gotten so much better over the years. When I first started spraying, HVLP hadn't even been invented yet.

I'm not sure what blushing looks like, I'm a back yard type of painter.

I had a lot of heavy orange peel so I thought it was due to the high humidity ~90*. I fiddled with the adjustment ***** (air/material/my spraying speed) and nothing seemed to fix it. So I had to do a lot of color sanding.

 

Yeah, if you're blending... but who's gonna blend ground effects?

Just a hazy, whitish, milky appearance in the clearcoat cause by trapping too much moisture.


Most painters have a base gun and a clear gun. Clear guns usually have a 1.3 or larger nozzle.

Point is, if you're using a gun with a smaller nozzle, you'll get a lot of peel. You want a larger nozzle to flow more material and thus laying it on thicker/smoother.

There are other things that could cause too much peel. Too much air pressure, incorrect mixture, sucky painter... (j/k)

Anyway, don't feel bad. By the time I finished all the pieces, the last piece was the rear bumper.

This morning I noticed how much peel I had in it. I could tell I was getting tired and by the time I got to the last piece, I was sucking at painting. All the other pieces laid out smooth, I only gave them a quick sand with 2000 grit.

I had to break out 1000 grit for the bumper.

Mark

 

BTW, I drove back to work tonight, it was HUMID as hell and in the dark in the parking lot, it took me 20 minutes to slide those 6 little pieces in their respective slots.

Stupid pieces....lol.

Mark