Just thought I would share, lest you think I'm merely sipping wine.

...I replaced all three engine mounts and the rear trailing arm bushings this weekend...cleaned the Mini-madness JCW air filter, found a huge vacuum leak - fix, replaced thr passenger side wheel bearing last week, installed the JCW suspension kit last week, got a new windshiled - the third one - and replaced the non JCW spark plugs with the correct plugs - apparently some mini service techs don't know there is a difference...

I have an appointment for an alignment tomorrow and we're good to go. The car feels superb! I even cranked up the Webb bar a half notch...feeling good!

The Ultimate Driving Machine requires the Ultimate pocket book, and the Ultimate patience to work with the ultimate idiots at the Ultimate Driving Machins's service center. The vacuum leak was not found by these folks because the computer didn't tell them where to look, only that there was a vacuum leak. So they charged my company nearly $700.00 for plugs - the wrong plugs, new wires and coils and a diagnostics fee. A vacuum line just under the IC came loose. Ah, feels good to vent a little!

 

I'm so tired of people not doing their job. It seems like we have to go back and either re-check or re-do what others should have done correctly. I got to my art show this weekend and the moron who sent me the kit to extend my 10x10 booth to 10x15 sent the wrong height pole. I had to go to hardware store and improvise with a PVC pipe! It's just the most recent in a series of foul ups. Yeah, it does feel good to vent.

Enjoy your ride. It sounds just about ready to go!

 

If your techs had half a brain, they would have broken out the smoke machine and just followed where the smoke was disappearing. There's your vacuum leak.

 

How do the rear trailing arm bushings feel? I still have my set that needs to go on.

 

Hemiheaded18...Uhm, yup! If I devoted some time to this last fall I could have found it. But I go thru periods when I don't want to playwith the car. And in reality, it could have been much worse.

The trailing arm bushings feel fine...the stockers were not that bad. I was surprised honestly. But I had them and it didn't take long to replace them.

The real vacuum leak story...the techs couldn't help me until an engine code popped up. When it finally did, I drove the car straight to mini. The service advisor came to the car, hooked up his fancy gadget and said, yup, two codes and cleared them. We made an appointment for the following week to have it fixed.

After dropping off my car the following week and driving the loaner car 1 hour back to my office - on fumes, I filled the tank - the service advisor called and said "there are no codes." I repsonded, I know, you cleared them last week...and "you wrote the codes down anticipating this appointment?" He did not, so I had to drive another hour back to give him the car.

 

Michael,

Good news that your car is up and functioning like it should. In your opinion, what was the cause of your horrid steering problems these past months? I think that an analysis will help us all.

Love,
John Petrich in Seattle

 

Hey John,

I think it was many things...but my sensitivity to steering drove me crazy too.

A worn front swaybar bushing - very elusive!!!

Worn stock control arm bushings

Bad passenger side wheel bearing

Worn upper strut bearings - a new phenomenon since the stock stuff went in

Worn engine mounts - these caused all sorts of really bad sensations. If you stop to think about where these connect - one major mount is connected to the subframe right next to the steering rack - the sensations were of something moving and jerking as the throttle was openned and closed, but also, as the car ran over bumps and undulations. The mounts were really, really bad!!! I did install a poly insert into the transmission mount. This adds a tiny amount of vibration at idel, but nothing while traveling down the road. A real PITA to get to by the way.

Now, if I get a 'good' alignment, I'll be back in heaven. My back side is a little torched from being in hell with my rig for a year or so Let also keep in mind, my 2005 has 125,000 miles on it...some of these are track miles, but the roads here in NY and CT are absolutely the worst...unless one drives a Buick...and the damage was caused by these roads in particular.

 

Michael,
Thanks for the detailed response. Funny, my 2003 was showing signs of worn engine mounts: primarily banging of the exhaust system. Just replaced the transmission mount and added the same Poly******* inserts. Wow! What a difference. The engine just sat up in the engine compartment real perky and no more banging sounds. The NVH did go up more than a little.

Left the passanger side motor mount alone, "looked" okay, and, I have confidence in my old sytle restraining brackets, set in Delrin bushings. But, am starting to wonder if I need to change that last motor mount out also. No real symptoms that I can identify.

Thanks,
John Petrich in Seattle

 

I prefer new OEM rubber, if you have the early style hydraulic engine mount and high mileage chances are it has collapsed some and lost resiliency.

 

Keith,

I agree, and thanks. That's what I did with the driver's side motor mount. Was not disappointed. Will call MINI today and order the replacement for the passenger side. My mount has been leaking small amounts of fluid for years.

John Petrich in Seattle

 

Kieth,

I'm a little confused...in one of your photos it looks like you have the new and old style upper mount - passenger side upper mount. I have the new style (my mini is a 2005 model) - hydraulic filled. This mount has blown twice, literally leaking fluid all over.

It's all good!!! The transmission mount is the biggy in terms of sweat.

 

Michael and Keith,

How do I remove and replace the passenger side mount? How do I get at the bolt in the bottom of the rubber mount?

I bit the bullet and T/C my local MINI dealer. Asked to purchase a motor mount. His response was "leaking, huh?, chuckle, chuckle". I said "yes, a little". He said "we have lots in stock, you can have it UPS tomorrow, chuckle, chuckle". Wonder if MINI is aware of the problem? (chuckle, chuckle)

How do I get it out? I too am fatiqued after replacing the drivers side mount. Lots of hassle and always the worry of disturbing all that electrical stuff on that side and causing even more problems. Went smoothly, thank the Lord.

Regards,
John Petrich in Seattle

 

Yea, the electrical got my attention John. I went slow and easy...but I disabled a few functions after removing the main lead to the fuse box. Oh well...I have to reset the clock

The other two are much easier...as long as you have a star socket for the passenger side upper mount. I love a good curve ball; build 99% of the car with traditional stuff and then throw in a star stud/bolt/screw just to screw with us backyard types!

 

Michael, I have the early style hydraulic engine mount.

John, the how-to is hyperlinked in post #9, here it is again https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=112703 . The short method (on ramps) will require an extension to reach the torx E12 bolt below the chassis rail.

 

Keith,

I know you to be a particular mechanic. Serves you well. Your How-to-do is awsome. Very thorough. Can tell that you've tried a couple different approaches. I'll follow your advice and remove the engine bracket. Been there done that. Didn't know anything about the underside of that motor mount. Now I do. Mine is the old style mount as well.

I'll let you know how it goes. Hope that the new one is the correct one, and that the old one is poopy enough to justify the effort and cost of a replacement.

Regards to you and to Michael,
John Petrich in Seattle