I have had my 06' MCS for about 3 months (purchased used) and I still haven't gotten the knack of hard acceleration upshifting. I back off the gas very early before shifting and the engine still wants to rev up when I push in the clutch. I deffinetly do know how to shift a manual tranny, been driving them for 30 years, I just think it's because of the supercharger and the intake system is still under some boost momentarally, even with the throttle closed. Is that correct?
How do you guys do it? Every time it over revs when I shift I feel like an idiot who doesn't know how to drive a manual transmission!
HELP!!

 

I'm having trouble understanding what exactly you mean....are you trying to "powershift" or up-shift very quick, or are you just trying to up-shift normally and are having trouble?

During "hard acceleration up-shifting" don't let off the gas until you start to press the clutch, then shift and let the clutch go rather quickly...you shouldn't have a problem. You can also try rev-matching.

-Cody

 

Well, first things first... Make sure that you are FULLY depressing the clutch all the way to the floor when shifting. Second get a little bit familiarized with the shifter's gate action. The Getrag is not as fluid feeling as say a Honda manual but once it is well broken in, the shifting action is very smooth and fast. I understand what you are saying. In my '05 R53 S I can shift and row very fast through the gears with no problems from the drivetrain. Make sure though, since you bought the car used, that no transmission work was done by the previous owner. Also if the clutch is worn (The clutch is the weakest link of the manual transmission Cooper S) and the car is under warranty, have the dealer replace the clutch kit (Clutch plate, flywheel, etc) under warranty. That will make a huge difference if indeed the clutch is preventing you from shifting the car an smoothly building up power when driving the car with enthusiasm.

 

I've got 15k on my '06 and still have trouble getting it smooth. I'm blaming it on the supercharger and the pulley. I have to come all of the way off to get it smooth in normal city driving. Clubman is right though, it has taken a long time for this clutch to break in, but it is either smoothing out or I'm on my way to replacing it from the tracking I've been doing.

I've been driving normally aspirated stick shifts forever, without problems. I sold my last stick (VW Jetta) with 111000 miles and a good clutch. I don't recall having a similar problem on an '87 944 Turbo, but it was a turbo and under heavy pedal you chirped them anyhow.

 

The stock clutch and flywheel in these cars is made by a German company called LuK. Unfortunately, even under normal, non-abusive use, the stock clutch seems to literally fry. Mine was replaced under warranty at 25K miles, no questions asked. The Luk clutch kits seem to be made of junk materials. In light of this, I purchased the extended MINI 6 year/100K mile scheduled service contract that covers the (in addition to many other wear items) the entire clutch kit. If you are out of warranty and love the car otherwise, I would look into aftermarket clutch alternatives. Having said this, the Getrag gearbox is rock solid. The problem is the clutch assembly that doesn't last much.

 

Thanks for all the replies so far.
I think maybe I wasn't clear in my description of the issue I'm having. To help clarify:
The transmission is absolutly perfect. No problem with the transmission.
The Clutch is also perfect.
The problem is me. What is happening is I just can't get the timing right with letting off the gas and pushing in the clutch. If I'm really getting on it, the engine will sometimes want to rev way up instead of down, as it should, when I push in the clutch. I guess I need to start backing off the gas pedal waaaay before I get ready to push in the clutch. I have done that and it does work but just doesn't feel right. I'm used to instant RPM drop when I let off the gas but it is not happening In the MCS under hard acceleration. Normal driving, no problem, smooth as butter. Just under hard acceleration am I having this issue. I'm still thinking it may be normal due to residual boost pressure. Can someone varify that? By the way, I have the 15% undersize pulley, in case that matters.
Thanks, everyone, for your patience and responses.

 

I think with time and practice you'll find the perfect coordination between clutch and gas pedal interaction. I have been driving stick shift cars for over 20 years and overall I have found the MINI Getrag box not only fun to row but also extremely forgiving. The clutch engages/disingages very smoothly even under fast acceleration. No neck snapping jerkiness for me and my passengers. But I will be the first to admit that it took me sometime to develop my smooth shifting demeanor in my MCS. I have the stock pulley in mine, so the extra power in yours may indeed have something to do with it. Oh and also the MCS, even with the stock pulley, does not exhbit instant RPM drop. If you come from a Honda or any high revving Japanese car, the MCS Supercharged Tritec engine drops down RPMs very slowly by comparison. This will take sometime for you to get used to. It is the nature of the beast. May I ask what was your previous car?

 

I don't know what to say. Every manual car I've driven required the person to get off the gas completely before putting it into gear so long as the clutch pedal would be fully depressed (it's a zero-sum operation). That is, unless some sort of rev-matching, double clutching/declutching, or power shifting was being attempted. Considering that our cars have synchros, that rules out 2/3's of the list, leaving powershifting. He's not doing that. So my only thought is...get off the gas! Clutch/gas operation in general should be as close to an on/off operation as possible, otherwise you're slipping. Unavoidable in slow traffic, but when at speed it should be an instant action.

In my car when you get off the gas, the inertia effect from the flywheel keeps it at an RPM for a fraction of a second before the RPM's slowly (relative to other cars) fall. If they're rising, there's a mechanical problem with your throttle body, or you're still on the gas...simple as that.

The weakest link in that portion? Yes. But as far as being weak as cars in general go...everything I've read and seen (and experienced) points to it as being MUCH overly built for the stock output of our cars. Guys around here are running the stock clutch when pushing 250 or so at the crank. There is a distinct lack of threads commenting on the weakness of the clutch (unless it was abuse or too often slipping), and a huge portion relaying the thought about how grabby/durable it is.

Our clutch durability is NOT an issue, by and large.

- Matt

 

I make ~260 HP at the crank (A little under 100 HP over stock) and i'm about to turn over 28,000 miles on the stock clutch.

The clutch may be the weakest part of the transmission, but it's certainly not weak. I can't imagine what more people could expect out of a stock clutch. As it is the clutch can function normally (And has been tested by numerous people) at levels approaching double it's design limits.

 

I guess youll just have to get a knack for the feel of the vehicle.
I have a 04S with a lot of mods and have not had an issue power shifting since day one. it shifts smooth no matter how aggressive im into it. I kinda roll my foot when i shift (hard to describe) but it is a great technique for shifting hard and not have the engine feel that hard bang from just popping the clutch between shifts.

 

Clubman S,
I've, owned (2) Austin Healys, a volkswagan beetle, an old Rembler American (with "3 on the tree"), Ford trucks, Datsuns, built a Healy replica Kit car with Mustang GT and T-5 drive train (which I still own and drive) and driven just about all type of manual transmission cars, MG's, Triumphs, School buses, box trucks, synco 1st gear, non-syncro 1st gear, you name it!