This probably could go into the Suspension forum, but I thought I'd post this link to an extremely helpful article here instead for visibility.

The winter season creates potholes. Potholes can jar your car out of an alignment, especially the front toe. With a *stock* front suspension (i.e. no eccentric bolts, no camber/caster plates), you really can't do much with the camber or caster, so that leaves only the toe adjustment. I do have the M7 SRP's (strut reinforcement plates), so I'm covered from mushrooming. You'll notice your toe go out when your steering wheel lists to the left or right after you've hit something nasty.

Here's the link to a DIY instruction set to make some inexpensive toe plates:

http://www.hillmanimages.com/912/adj_toein.html

I bought two 30" long angles ($5.00 each) and two 12' tape measures ($3.00 each) at Lowe's. Mounted them on a couple 2" x 5" x 10" (free) and I was good to go.

It's really easy to do, and it'll buy you some time until you can get a full alignment done. I simply try to set the difference in measurements to be zero or about 1/8" less for the front measurement.

When you're done setting the toe correctly, if your steering wheel is still listing to the left or right, you can correct that by turning BOTH tie rod ends in the same direction by EXACTLY the same amount - i.e. the wrench travels in a "mirror-image" on both sides. You'll need a 19mm, 13mm and an adjustable wrench for the locknut.

Now, I do have a lifetime alignment at Firestone which I use a few times a year. But I also have a day job that prevents me from bringing my car often. This DIY allows me to check and adjust my front toe from the comfort of my garage. Of course if I hit a pothole with my rear tire(s) really hard and notice a pull, then it's time to bring it in.

Regards,

Al

 

Just to clarify, in the picture below, is the red dot on the locking nut (and the green on the tie rod)? I think I am missing something in the picture because you mention 3 things "You'll need a 19mm, 13mm and an adjustable wrench for the locknut." yet I only have pointed out 2.

Any clarification you could provide would be appreciated. Also, how hard should you crank down on the locking nut?

 

rwkeating,

Just ahead of the locknut is a set of "flats" on the ball-joint end of the tierod. Those flats are 19mm. I use an adjustable wrench for the locknuts simply because I don't any open-end wrenches larger than 19mm. The green dot is on the shaft that you turn to adjust the toe-in/out.

After I break the locknut loose, I hold the end with the 19mm to prevent that from turning. Then I carefully turn the 13mm 90-degrees each time a make an adjustment. Which way I turn depends on which way the steering wheel is listing. When tightening the locknut, be sure to keep a wrench on the 19mm otherwise your 90-degree turn will be off if the end turns a bit.

How tight? Really, you don't have to gorilla arm it. Just a little tighter than snug, maybe a 1/4 turn or so. The locknut holds a conical sleeve so there's plenty of pressure holding the pieces in place.