My 06 MCS lost one of its factory jack points when I drove off of a curb onto the street (tearing some of the underneath of my side skirt in the process).

I read about the TSW low-profile aluminum jack points here on NAM and ordered a set of four using the calendar discount code. Hopefully the shorter length will help avoid a repeat episode.

They arrived today (ordered two days ago). They are pricey, but extremely beefy in construction. They feel like solid blocks of aluminum with only the essential bits removed -- which I believe is exactly how they were made.

I got great support from Jeff at TSW and would like to recommend them for their solid product and quick shipping. No affiliation except as a customer.

bonmot

 

And a picture...

 

Thats pretty cool!

 

I'd like a set but the mounting has me worried. toggle bolts? why not use the OEM hardware?

 

I can't speak for the designers of the jack points, but here's my take.

Since the factory clips apparently break away with only mild force, I presume TSW wanted to use something which stayed in place better. I'd be unhappy if I could lose a $25 aluminum jack point as readily as I lost my factory one.

Is your concern with the toggle bolts about creating something so rigid that might cause damage to the frame if you hit something too hard? Or is it about corrosion?

 

corrosion is one and one-way install is another

 

I don't use the factory jack. But with my floor jack, I use 15 inch or so piece of 2x4 placed behind the factory jack points.

 

I suppose they might be a little tricky to get off once you install them. A small tube of thread-lock compound is included to keep them from vibrating loose. Not a big concern of mine.

 

I do too, but I can see the point of keeping the jacking point - if you lose a tire alongside the road and need to make a repair, you probably won't have your handy 2X4 and floor jack handy...

...then again, you probably won't have a spare handy, either, so maybe it's a moot point.

 

Exactly.

By using the 2x4 I keep my factory jack points in good condition.

 

Until it tears off like mine did by backing off of a curb onto the street

Incidentally, it was not a 90 degree curb either -- this was one immediately behind a parking space -- driven down every day by someone.

 

Welllll.... except you really shouldn't rely on the single jack on a board when taking wheels off or (especially) when climbing under the car - you should use a proper jack stand, slid under the jack point. I only use my jack to lift the car - I use my stands to HOLD the car.

I'd much rather scrape up a piece of plastic (which can be replaced for a few bucks) than have even as small as the MINI fall on my face...

 

why not use proper lift points like the center brace under the motor and the pickup point for the rear suspension? I center lift mine front or rear and put stands under the factory blocks.

 

...

 

Not sure where these points are - do you need a long-handled floor jack to reach them properly? I've jacked my car up dozens of times using a 2X4 laid along the door sill with no problems, but I'd rather use a true hard jacking point if I can. Once the stands are under the OEM jacking points, the car's as solid as a rock.

 

The reason for the toggle bolts is because there is no way to attached the blocks to the car with the stock hole. The stock blocks are just attached by one of those trim type bolts, the ones that spread out when used (kinda like a masonry/sheetrock molly bolts)

 

yes. a $99 investment that pays back in usefulness 1000x over.



I'll see if I can find some pics and highlight. Use at your own discretion....I'm not sure what the official word is on this

 

For simple wheel swaps, I use the board. For more serious work I use the stands.
YMMV

 

Have you got a shot of where you are lifting from for both front and back...?

 

Use at your own discretion....I'm not sure what the official word is on this

front location - crossmember - there's a big circular hole with reinforement. I put my cup over this....very solid spot because the reinforcement sits down in teh cup.



__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _______________

rear location - either side mounting brackets for the camber link. Either one will do....close enough to the center of the car to lift evenly.



some notes: to use this front point if your car is lowered, you'll need to put the factory jack under one side lift point and bring the car up in the air, just high enough that the tires still touch (the center lift is smooth, so no worries here). I tend to leave a jack in place as a 'safety' in either of these spots, in addition to the stands. I've seen a car get knocked off stands before when trying to break a stubborn bolt loose. Also, if you are only lifting front or rear, be sure to use proper chocks as well.

 

Does anyone have a picture of that center front and rear jack point? I've been looking for an excuse to buy a long-handled jack...

EDIT: Nvm - you beat me to it. Thanks!

 

Thanks PGT. I have in the past just used my Rhino ramps to get the car up high enough to get a jack under the front (different car).

Looks like a great place to use the 2x4 also !

 

yep....I used my ramps in teh driveway but it's futile on the polished concrete pad in the garage. Ramps shoot back under the car when you try to pull up on them

 

I've used that front mounting point that PGT pointed out as well, worked for me so far. Where on the side of the car are you guys putting the 2x4 to jack up one side at a time?

 

the side rails would be ok I'd think \/



the lifts the dealer uses lift here, so I would think it's ok.