Schrick Cam??
Mixid opinions on teh cam from the assembled mases.
Search 'schrick cam' and you'll find a few discussions on it.
Bottom line is what other mods have you done, cam is usually way down on the list since the dollar/hp ratio is low.
Also ask yourself what your performance goals are.
Search 'schrick cam' and you'll find a few discussions on it.
Bottom line is what other mods have you done, cam is usually way down on the list since the dollar/hp ratio is low.
Also ask yourself what your performance goals are.
Mixid opinions on teh cam from the assembled mases.
Search 'schrick cam' and you'll find a few discussions on it.
Bottom line is what other mods have you done, cam is usually way down on the list since the dollar/hp ratio is low.
Also ask yourself what your performance goals are.
Search 'schrick cam' and you'll find a few discussions on it.
Bottom line is what other mods have you done, cam is usually way down on the list since the dollar/hp ratio is low.
Also ask yourself what your performance goals are.
Excellent. Looks like it doesn't do a whole lot unless other mods are there to support it. I am looking to build the cooper into a good mountain warrior without going to a cooper S. Currently, I only have the drop-in filter with some suspension and brake mods. I looked at some exhaust parts, but I would want one that doesn't drone too badly. Has anyone ever used the OBX axle-back? I found it on ebay and I have always liked their exhaust parts in the past.
Excellent. Looks like it doesn't do a whole lot unless other mods are there to support it. I am looking to build the cooper into a good mountain warrior without going to a cooper S. Currently, I only have the drop-in filter with some suspension and brake mods. I looked at some exhaust parts, but I would want one that doesn't drone too badly. Has anyone ever used the OBX axle-back? I found it on ebay and I have always liked their exhaust parts in the past.
IMHO, the Schrick cam is worthwhile ONLY if you've got a properly ported head... Otherwise, it's not going to live up to the full potential. I've got one in my Cooper - with the head work that we did at the same time, the combo of the ported/polished head and cam made the biggest difference of any other performance mod, period. Nothing else even comes close.
I've got a tuner version of the MTH software for the mods installed... Although, at some point, I'd love to have RMW work it over some more.
I've got a tuner version of the MTH software for the mods installed... Although, at some point, I'd love to have RMW work it over some more.
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MTH I will look into that if I decide to build the motor. At this point, I am also looking for a possible second car and a 996 carrera is in my sights. We shall see what this thirst for power brings.
IMHO, the Schrick cam is worthwhile ONLY if you've got a properly ported head... Otherwise, it's not going to live up to the full potential. I've got one in my Cooper - with the head work that we did at the same time, the combo of the ported/polished head and cam made the biggest difference of any other performance mod, period. Nothing else even comes close.
I've got a tuner version of the MTH software for the mods installed... Although, at some point, I'd love to have RMW work it over some more.
I've got a tuner version of the MTH software for the mods installed... Although, at some point, I'd love to have RMW work it over some more.
So what were your numbers after you ported polished and did the cam job?
I have a Newman cam, which is a bit more agressive from the Schrick, according to the specs, and i wouldn't recommend it. Not that there is any problem with the cam, jus there is a loss at low rpm, up to 3000rpm. The only area that has gained a few hp, is above 5000rpm, to the rev limit, according to my feel. Now it has power up to 6950, where as before it just made noise above 6000. But, is it worth it? We rarely drive at that rev range.
Turbo kit means a lot of money... And it will not help the driving dynamics at all. If you want power, the hard truth is you should get an S... Or, stick with the 100kg lighter Cooper, make it faster, and give a really hard time to the R53s in any tight road/track... :D
megan header,fidanza flywheel,clutch master fx300,supersprint cat back,k&n intake,kw v1 coilover,alta control arms,h&r sway bar,i/e camber plate,front and rear strut bar,buddy club stabilzer,engine damper,hawk hp+ front n back
i found cosworth big valve cylinder head http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/c...6-p-19114.html
i found cosworth big valve cylinder head http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/c...6-p-19114.html
megan header,fidanza flywheel,clutch master fx300,supersprint cat back,k&n intake,kw v1 coilover,alta control arms,h&r sway bar,i/e camber plate,front and rear strut bar,buddy club stabilzer,engine damper,hawk hp+ front n back
i found cosworth big valve cylinder head http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/c...6-p-19114.html
i found cosworth big valve cylinder head http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/c...6-p-19114.html
What is the weight of the OEM Crankshaft damper and what can it be reduced to? Will replacing it with a lighter unit improve low end response noticeably? Are there any drawbacks associated with a lighter damper?
Same question for the flywheel with the added question of will there be any difficulty experienced during (manual) shifting?
My interest in the low end response is due to the fact that the mods I've done on my 2004 Mini haven't made a real "noticeable" improvement from the "light" up to about 3000 RPM. From 3000 to red line it pushes you back in the seat with much stronger pull than pre-mod
On a cosmetic note, I believe I see in your sig pix that you have the same OEM rims on your Mini as I have. I was thinking of either powder coating them white or buying a new set of white spoke rims (haven't settled on a mfgr yet). But I do like the look of your rims. Are they powder coated or painted?
hmm i forgot to mention that i also have sprint booster,i think sprintbooster and the tsw engine damper is quite useful for low rpm driving because u can give gas without shifting down on fifth gear,the fidanza flywheel is actually a product you will notice instantly,the only downside is easier to stall the car with a lighter flywheel,oh and my wheel is actually work wheel meister 2 piece custom painted to orange
megan header,fidanza flywheel,clutch master fx300,supersprint cat back,k&n intake,kw v1 coilover,alta control arms,h&r sway bar,i/e camber plate,front and rear strut bar,buddy club stabilzer,engine damper,hawk hp+ front n back
i found cosworth big valve cylinder head http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/c...6-p-19114.html
i found cosworth big valve cylinder head http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/c...6-p-19114.html
So you have a pretty extensive mod list for an R50, the kind of list I would like! I know right now I have 106 WHP. What are you at?
In a few hours i am going for a custom remap on the dyno, i am looking forward, and i hope i will not be dissapointed from the result :D
As far as engine components are concerned, i have Janspeed header with decat pipe, Supersprint autox cat back (centre resonator delete, center exit), K&N panel filter with custom air feed and stock resonator removed, Fidanza flywheel, Newman camshaft, and NGK iridium spark plugs. I always use Castrol Edge Sport 0W-40 oil. The car feels good, we will see...
As far as engine components are concerned, i have Janspeed header with decat pipe, Supersprint autox cat back (centre resonator delete, center exit), K&N panel filter with custom air feed and stock resonator removed, Fidanza flywheel, Newman camshaft, and NGK iridium spark plugs. I always use Castrol Edge Sport 0W-40 oil. The car feels good, we will see...
Ok, I'll chime in here as well.
I did the camshaft (Schrick) with my cylinder head install - just like a couple others have mentioned, and I would suggest to do it that way. Just the cam by itself would maybe give you something, but nothing as noticeable and useable as a head + cam install would.
My mods are: air intake, exhaust, exhaust header + high-flow CAT, cylinder head (P&P), and schrick camshaft. (together with some NGK plugs).
As is, my car has 160K miles, and in the last dyno (about 3 years ago), it was at 120whp with 17" wheels - a bit heavier than stock.
This is with a stock ECU tune, which many people are saying is what's holding me back. I assume (and this is based on purely nothing), that with a proper dyno-tune, I could be up to 135-140 at the wheels. Which would be pretty sweet for a non-S. hehe.

Take care,
Leo.
PS: Gotta love that flat-spot at 3-4K range. lol. It feels horrible on the street, but as soon as it passes the 4200RPM mark, it's a new beast. Then I think of the transmission and how it's about to break, and slow it back down to 3500 or so... lol.
I did the camshaft (Schrick) with my cylinder head install - just like a couple others have mentioned, and I would suggest to do it that way. Just the cam by itself would maybe give you something, but nothing as noticeable and useable as a head + cam install would.
My mods are: air intake, exhaust, exhaust header + high-flow CAT, cylinder head (P&P), and schrick camshaft. (together with some NGK plugs).
As is, my car has 160K miles, and in the last dyno (about 3 years ago), it was at 120whp with 17" wheels - a bit heavier than stock.
This is with a stock ECU tune, which many people are saying is what's holding me back. I assume (and this is based on purely nothing), that with a proper dyno-tune, I could be up to 135-140 at the wheels. Which would be pretty sweet for a non-S. hehe.

Take care,
Leo.
PS: Gotta love that flat-spot at 3-4K range. lol. It feels horrible on the street, but as soon as it passes the 4200RPM mark, it's a new beast. Then I think of the transmission and how it's about to break, and slow it back down to 3500 or so... lol.
Yeah, I got my cylinder head done by a local FL guy - Thumper Performance.
Thumper Performance Link.
Take care,
Leo.
Thumper Performance Link.
Take care,
Leo.
Yes, the close-up photo of the rims clears up the OEM issue. In your little thumbnail they appeared to be the same as the OEM...but actually much different when viewed up close.
So when I get around to making all these changes, how much time will you project before my 5-speed tranny ends up in the junkyard?


