Hi all.

I just got a set of Ferodo DS3000 dedicated track pads for the fronts.

Some background info - currently running the following for brakes:

Ferodo DS 2500 front/rear
Powerslot slotted OEM size rotors
SS lines
ATE Super Blue / Motul RBF600 (alternating)
Tyrolsport caliper bushings


My first question is do I have to bed the track pads in BEFORE I attend my next 1-day HPDE at Limerock on Nov-2? i.e. on the street? Or should I just slap the pads in at the track and take it easy for the first two laps or so? I would imagine it'd be kind of difficult to bed them in properly with people flying around the track.

Next I'll be sure to flush the brake fluid like 3 days before the event...but my problem is that I've had the 2500's for a while now....and so if I slap on the brand spanking new 3000's on track day, I'll have to compress the piston...Do I need to bleed the brakes again at the track? I don't open the bleeder nipple to compress the piston - just a C-clamp and a thin piece of wood. I wonder if I run the risk of getting air into the system by compressing the piston.

Is it alright to use the same rotors for this setup? This is only my 3rd HPDE and I don't expect to do more than 5 hpde's a year.... Should I get another set of rotors just for the front for track days? The current rotors have ~10,000 miles that include one HPDE back in August.

I'll be leaving the 2500's on the rears.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.

Shoe

 

When I need to bed in new pads I go out in the first session, drive 3/4 speed until the pedal gets a little soft. I can usually smell the pads by then too. Then come in and let them cool till the next session.

I've tried bedding them on the street with repeated 70 - 40 stops but the local cops don't like it and it doesn't seem to work as well.

When you put the new pads and need to compress the pistons open the top of the brake fluid reservoir to ease the pressure. DON'T FORGET TO RETIGHTEN

Same rotors are fine, many of us swap pads for track days. Once you think yuo need a BBK you'll find the pad swap is about 1000 times easier.

 

Stop-Tech's got a good primer on bedding in stock replacement-sized track pads... FWIW, their process has worked well for me in the past. If you follow Stop-Tech's instructions on the street re: race compound pads, though, you might get arrested!

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml

As far as swapping in the new pads at the track, you should be just fine with the process you mentioned... There should be no need to bleed the brakes again, although I'd still recommend that you bring your bleeding equipment and some extra fluid in the off chance that you cook the fluid to death (which could be a real possibility give OEM rotors and the more aggressive compound - also, Lime Rock can be pretty hard on the brakes, IIRC).

You should be fine with your rotors, too, although I would definitely check them between sessions on the track... I've never run the DS3000, but depending on the temps they reach they may eat the rotors quickly - it wholly depends on the coefficient of friction they achieve given the temps you'll see. I might be inclined to bring along another set - just in case. For reference, Dr. Mike ran Wilwood A Compound pads at an event and they ate the rotors in record time - to the point that he missed afternoon sessions because they'd run beyond spec in the morning.

 

1 - You NEED to bed them in as soon as you install them
2 - You dont need to bleed the brakes if you dont crack open the lines. You
dont need to open anything up to compress the piston. Why would you
wanna do that?
3 - The Stoptech website is a great source as stated above. I have the BBK
on my car. The only thing with my pads is that I have the ST Clubsport
pads and had to bed them in doing roughly 14...100 - 5 mph passess
without coming to a complete stop. The rotors get pretty hot...dont
touch em like I did.... They say when you put the pads on go to your
destined test spot without coming to a stop. You will imprint the pad
signature on the rotor making the rotor warp or vibrate....

 

Thanks for all the comments thus far. But how do you bed them in on-track when you have a 12+ other drivers out there pounding the cars from the get-go??

Would it be ok to just take it easy the first few laps? It's a 20 minute session so it's not like I can do the stops and then cool off - I'll have to hit the brakes again very, very soon.

 

I usually end up doing a short first session when I have to bed in pads.

Or go do it on the street.

 

Follow the StopTech procedure. I have followed it numerous times with great success. And the one time I got lazy and did not, I almost ruined a set of rotors with pad deposition.

 

I concur - either get on track for the first part of the first morning session, or the last part... If you do the last part, you can catch the cool down lap(s). Get ready to do a lot of point bys and be the last car out in the run group. It's not a bad idea to let the steward know what you're doing, either.

I personally wouldn't recommend trying to bed them in just by driving around the track at 3/4 speed - they need to get very, very hot to 'season' the pad, and most track pads need a whole lot of heat in a very short cycles, followed by a cool down period (a la the Stop-Tech procedure). Some pads even need two (or more) sessions like this to be 'right'. Driving around at 3/4 speed will likely get them warm, but not warm enough - and then, they'll either never quite offer full potential or worse, they can come apart (seen that happen before!).

The other option would be to find a deserted road and station someone at one end... Take along a set of FRS radios and follow the process. We're always looking for deserted back roads for bedding activities - as gnat said, cops tend to frown on the process.

 

Stoptech's bedding procedure works great.

Similar instructions here (Mostly taken from Stoptech)
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

PS... Txwerks, I've tried e-mailing you guys but haven't gotten any response, I still haven't recieved my engine damper that got lost in the mail .

My e-mail is nmercuro@mac.com, e-mail me...

 

I was trying to convey not driving full on while trying to bed the brakes.

I think this is a better way to state it.

As TXWerks stated go out last int eh run group and let the steward and your instructor know you need to bed int eh brakes. Do a few laps working the brakes hard but not trying to go 10/10ths. Brake as normal, just don't try and go all out. After 4-5 laps or so depending on the track the brakes should be good and hot. Do a cool down lap, exit the track and let the brakes cool. Remember don't use the parking brake. Next session should be ok, but if they need a little more heat thats ok too. Just be aware of pedal feel and if the pedal starts to go away come in and let the brakes cool. They should then be spot on from then on.

I realize it sucks cutting a session short to bed pads.

 

Stoptech recommends the following:

We typically recommend a set of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, followed immediately by three or four partial braking events, from 80mph down to 10mph. Alternately, a set of eleven stops, from 80mph to 40mph, or a set of seven stops, from 100mph to 50mph, would be approximately the same.

Given the 1.5 mile track at LRP and the mutliple twisties and two straights (one main, one shorter) I think it's going to be pretty hard to do follow this procedure, again especially with tons of other people in the intermdiate-1 group out there excited for the first session of the day.

I'll see what the instructions included with the pads say as well....

 

If you can find a stretch of deserted road...