Last weekend at the BMW Performance Center at Spartanburg, SC, we had three auto-x runs per session, almost back-to-back, in 98 degree heat.

The course was long, 1.5 miles. It was really laid out to take advantage of the power of the M cars.

So my car was on boost almost all of the time over the minute-and-40-seconds on course, then I had to get back in line for another run.

We had two sessions with three runs per session. First session I had time to get out of the car and spray the DFIC down.

No time during the second session to spray it down.

IATs were at a staggering 188 degrees at the starting line of the second session runs.

The question is, how to get those initial 188-degree IATs down when there's no chance to stop the car and spray the DFIC down?

I've thought about one of the cooling mist injection options, but I also do track days here in the Southeast summer heat. Those sessions last 20 minutes, 3-4 times a day, mostly under boost.

Any suggestions as to how to get the IATs down without emptying a small reservoir before the session ends?

I'm not looking for power so much as wanting to reduce the possibility of damage from heat induced detonation.

As a point of reference, my IATs are normally 10-20 degrees above ambient (depending on load), when the car is moving on the highway, and not under boost, after a couple of minutes.

I have the DFIC Aerogel blanket installed.

This info comes from my ScanGauge II reader.

 

Aquamist injection The outside water spray on the intercooler systems need too much water, you would run through gallons compared to quarts with a internal injection system that would work better anyway .

 

I wonder what the guys that "really" race these cars do? There's somebody on the board that has a car in the Koni events. I'll bet it's not much.

 

When I drag raced my 88 5.0 Mustang during the summer drag racing season, I use to carry dry ice in a cooler to put over the plenum. I wrapped the ice in towels and let it lay over the plenum. I don't know if that'll help, it helped me.
Chuck

 

With 20 mintute runs that wouldn't work very long.

 

Are you saying I'm not really racing?

They (real racers ) probably don't use the DFIC, which may be better suited for street only use.

I figured the Aquamist couldn't produce a mist for twenty minutes, unless I carried a great big heavy tank...

Hmm...

 

I'm thinking at RA of building a box around the IC and packing it with dry ice.

No we're too damn old to be racers

 

Sshhh!

The older I get, the faster I was.

 

what is considered the perfect approach... (approach being the difference between ambient and your IAT) ... is 20...

so if yer IC is working... and adequet you should see a max of about 118 on a 98 degree day... even at double that which is 40 you should see a max of 138... once you are moving and at speed this should drop... that's pretty crazy temps... I never saw those temps even with my TC car with the V1 alta... even on 110 degree day in AZ

 

The Aquamist system uses extremely small nozzles , like .008" , @ 250psi, and you would not use much or would you want to inject a lot of water. It goes into the combustion chamber , turns to steam and absorbs heat energy in the process. Making steam takes alot of heat energy by the way.Also the steam molecules get in between the fuel molecules ,slowing down the uncontrolled detonation. WRC cars use the system and they have much longer races.

 

I know Peter at M7 is almost done making his DFIC h2o sprayer. I made one from some Home Depot parts and used my rear window sparyer pump. It was a very simple set up and worked perfect. It is perfect for you because you will be able to spray while you are driving, by twisting the rear wiper ****.
M

 

I've seen posts about this before, but I'm curious how you get the water from the pump (in the boot) up to the IC?

 

On the passenger side there is a small rubber hose, just route it toward the DFIC, you will be about 2 feet more of small rubber hose. It is super simple.

 

IN all honesty...Ditch the DFIC...Your not the first TRACK or AUTO-X racer that noticed this...if you look though the racing threads you will see it agian and again...Heck look at the RMW crew...they all took off the DFIC...nothing against m7, Peter is a great guy and I run some of his products, just stating the facts...There are some other great solutions out there! But with it comes a price -- Johan

 

For a 1 minute auto-x run at comparatively lower speeds, (typically 70 MPH tops) and under high boost, the IC never cools down, in fact it heats up.

The coolest it will be is at the start line (assuming it's been cooled down with a sprayer between runs).

If the starting temps are high, they'll stay high for such a short run, and with minimal air flowing.

 

Yes very simple, I bought a put together kit from ALTA , they have a weird really wide spray nozzle I doubt you would find local anywhere. I can dump the passenger side window washer bottle down in less than a hour of street playing. You to have spray a lot because the evaporating rate is slow and has little effect,until very high temps. Like around 212*F You have to wash down the IC with alot of water to cool it down, If you try to rig up a "mist" all you'll have is a hot wet IC .

 

They were running a DFIC and noticed the exact same thing. Extremely high IATs.
Here's what they said.

 

once you are moving if yer IC is heating up then it's too small... the hottest it should be is at the start of the run... while idling.. at teh end of the run the charge side should be hot... and the manifold side should be cold

also... high boost? that's why I pointed out I was talking about my TC car.... if that's not heating up.. I don't know what is... this same thread keeps getting posted over and over.... super high temps... DFIC... racing/hard drivers... etc

also to all the IC sprayers... try using alchohal on race day... it evaperates much quicker!

 

For testing of the Rotrex Supercharger.

 

hmm...didn't realize that rustyboy or whatever his SN is was testing the Rotex SC...

 

I thought about that... but I don't know about spraying something that flameable under the bonnet... especially that close to the ignition . Did I say ignition?

 

Longboard mini is testing the Rotrx, and he had on the DFIC, then the stock, then back to the DFIC. I also have the head and the DFIC, others do as well. Some have Alta's version and yet others still have JCW IC's. Painting such a broad stroke only creates more confusion.

 

Nathan,

Just to be clear on Longboards car, it is running the stock intercooler and plans on running the stock intercooler

 

I'm going back to sleep...I get nothing right these days...

 

It is a tough call for any IC to have a good IAT when not stationary. Did you get any info while you were moving at all ? I think that is the more relevant info as to the performance of the unit. The ideas about spraying between runs with a onboard spray system might be your best bet. The Aerogel blanket would also be a good bet for helping to keep those underhood temps down .We are fast tracking our sprayer now that summer is here and will have something for you shortly . Mario came up with a very nice DIY and that may work for you as well. As for the performance of the DFIC we still stand behind it and if you go to this thread listed below you can see more info than you could ever want proving our commitment to the product. As to others changing them out the reasons for that may not always be performance related Feel free to call me any time if you would like to chat .

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=101043

Randy
M7 Tuning
818 497 4341