Has anyone ever looked into the possibility of a 5 lug conversion? Not adapters, but actually redrilling the hubs for five lugs? Maybe "blank" hubs/axles that could be drilled with whatever pattern.

 

Adapters would probably be a better solution unless you are never planning to use 4 lug wheels again...

 

What would your reason for doing this be? Different selction of wheels?

 

Search my friend. This has been covered at great length some time ago. I offered to help expedite it.

In short- waayyy costly to do with little real gain was the result.

 

17x7.5 E36 M3 forged wheels (fronts). +41 offset.

Just thinkin' out loud.

The one in the center:

 

Adapters would be too thick.

 

Look into a custom forged wheels. They're probably cheaper than the M3's and you can also (most of the time) get them drilled for a 4 bolt pattern.
I went with the Boze 2 piece and love them.

Also, +41 offset on a 17x7.5 is not the same as +41 offset on a 17x7. You have to take into account the additional width of the wheel.

 

+40 offset on a 17x7.5 fits really nicely. I've seen several cars with aftermarket wheels with those measurements.

Going aftermarket for wheels is cheating! j/k. I don't see a lot of aftermarket wheels - forged or not - that I really like, and a lot of the ones I DO like are limited to five-lug applications. Those forged M3 wheels are 10-12 years old now, so they can be had used for the same or less than a new set of aftermarket forged wheels. I just happened to see a car in a magazine with those particular wheels, which I really like, and when I discovered that the size and offset of the fronts is what I want, I thought I'd check into it. Just daydreaming at this point. Those wheels or others, converting to five lugs opens up more interesting wheel possibilities than having four lugs.

For the record, those M3 wheels are 19.7 lbs per wheel. Not the lightest 17" wheel by a long shot, but 3 lbs less than the R99s I've got now.

 

This is simply not true.

 

Not in all cases, but it would be with the particular M3 wheels above. The offset is +41, and adapters are going to add another 20-25 to that, which would create an offset of +16 to +21. Not good, especially with a 7.5" wide wheel (as opposed to a 7" wide).

If I were considering that low an offset, I'd spring for four of the Lotus Elise/Exige rear (17x7.5) Lightweight forged wheels:



These will bolt right up - 4x100 bolt pattern, 56.6 center bore

...and they only weigh 14 lbs. The extra cost would be made up by not having to do the 5 lug conversion.

Problem is the +18 offset.

 

the 2/3" difference in offset can be made up for in tire selection. Be bold. do it.


I would love to have 5x120 hubs. I would be rocking deep 16" BMW rims. I've thought about it, too and read some of the threads on it here.

The problem with adapters is that they ARE too thick. the only wheels that are do-able with adapters are super high offset Porsche wheels (et53ish-et65ish). I don't know any other wheel that even look remotely decent with an offset over et50. So that's out.

If someone started mass producing quality hubs cheaply for the MINI in 5x120 or 5x100, they could stand to make some $$$. (any manufacturers hearing this?!?! Also make some widened holies while your at it!!!)

 

The 5 lug conversion is actually on my long list, for pretty much the same reason(not the same wheel) as 70spop, BMWs have some sweet wheels.

I will hopefully be able to get a little closer as I am going through the prelims for a BMW/MINI parts position.

 

Is it really worth $1200+, maybe upwards of $1500 for this?

 

"The sensible choice"? Well, probably not, but who knows? Like Partsman said, it would be on the long list... the loooooong list.

It seems that it would be a fairly involved project. Not just the trouble/expense of the hubs, but related wear parts for reassembly and new rotors all around - assuming there are existing five lug rotors that could be used. If not, then you're into custom rotors, too. Add to that the cost of the "gotta have 'em" wheels that are the cause of the whole thing, and it could get ugly. :impatient But some folks have the money (I don't casually place myself in that category, btw, but it's pretty obvious that quite a few people with MINIs can afford to have them as toys, and can afford to do what they wish with their toys), and for some folks it just might be worth it to have something that's unique.

I just hadn't ever checked into doing a 4 to 5 conversion, and was wondering if anyone had, and what they found. For all I knew/know, some tucked away race shop does these routinely and/or has a source for parts. (?)

Anyway, it would be sweet to be able to put some of the BMW wheels on the MINI, not to mention more of the BBSs and other BMW and Porsche tuner wheels.

 

Well... 2/3" difference between a +40 and a +18 maybe, but with a 7.5" wide wheel, you're actually looking at a 1.5" difference between where the outside of an S-lite sits and where those Lotus or BMW wheels would sit. Going from an S-lite's +50 to the Lotus' +18 is an inch and a quarter difference. Add another quarter inch to account for half of the extra 1/2" wheel width, and you're out there. Granted, it still *may* be do-able (and I've got some negative camber dialed in, so with 205/45-17s I'd have the tread under the fenders), but I'd be concerned with the front tires hitting stuff when turning hard.

 

The difference between an s-lite and the lotus would only be 1.49 inches at the 18mm offset and those widths. That wouldnt be bad at all...grab a ruler and check out how little 1.5 inches is

its easy to compare if you use this http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

 

Test fit!

Randy Webb has both cars at his shop. Being a tinkering-type guy (meant only with the greatest honor ) I'm sure he's tried it at least once. If not, I'll ask when I'm ordering parts for the MINIs in the Mountains install party. Now where did I put that money for those Leda coilovers. . .

 

The reason most Honda/Acura cars of lesser pedeigree than the Type R opted to go 5 lug was for; stronger axles, bigger bearings and hubs and Type R or NSX calipers become a bolt on consideration. I did this - $5,000.00 inlcuding the wheels and tires.

Greater wheel selction??? not sure that's the best way to spend your money...but as they say, it is your money.

I would keep an eye on wheel weight as well as offset...23mm front offset and 28 rear offset will rub slightly on a car that is lowered and stiffened for track. Wider will rub substantially if using stock rolling circumference.

 

This is why I don't want to end up with a +18 offset on a 17x7.5 wheel.

 

TR Motorsport F1 $519 ea. 17x7.5

Offset: +37mm Bolt Pattern: 4-100
Rec. Tire Size:225/45-17
**Lightweight: 12.0lbs.**

or the front wheels:

16x6.5 $439 ea.
Offset: +32mm Bolt Pattern: 4-100
Rec. Tire Size:195/50-16
**Lightweight: 10.5lbs.**


ALSO IN BLACK/POLISH

 

Now THOSE I could live with! Huh, I'll have to check out Lotus wheels on TR's site. Hadn't though of that.

Those are some cool wheels, and holy crap! Only 12 lbs?!?!?! Nice!

Ouchie on the bank account, but certainly cheaper than wheels + 5 lug conversion.

Edit: OK, I just looked. Other than the Volk TE37, these are the only other wheels for the Elise/Exige on their site.

 

And bent to hell with the first pothole you hit.

 

But, $519 each. $439 each for 16x6.5. For that price you pretty much have you pick of any wheel out there.

 

Offset, backset/backspace and wheel width should all be considered. Offset is the distance from the centerline to the outside of the wheel - this will affect fender rubbing. Backset/backspace is the distance from the centerline to the inside of the wheel - this will affect ribbing on springs and other thing inside the fender well. Wheel width may or may not affect rubbing in either direction depending upon offset or backset/backspace if the width is split evenly between the insdie and outside of the wheel.

So, it is possible to have a 6" wheel with a 18mm offset rub your fenders, while an 8" wheel with a 28mm offset will not rub on the fender...and it may not rub on anything inside the fender well either...

 

That can happen with any wheel. What's your point?