Will someone who has done it please give a clear explanation of a DIY oil/filter change for the R56? I want to do this at 2k miles and I'm not about to take it to the dealer. I have an extractor so will not need to go under the car to drain the oil, but want an explanation of the filter change. I have searched the forums diligently but can find nothing on this procedure for the R56. Thank you.

 

I'm confused, someone please help me understand this. Why are people doing their oil changes them selves on the 07's. Doesn't Mini pay for and do all maintenance for the first three years, or is this only in some locations? I can understand doing one or two thousand miles into it, but after that, why?

 

They pay for it, but only when the service indicator on the car says one is due. That comes at around 15,000 miles. Some don't believe in (probably wrongly) waiting that long between oil changes.

Anyway, the oil filter is under the intake ductwork on the front left (driver's) side of the engine.




Draining the oil via the plug in the pan is better than using an extractor. It lets any sediment run out as well.

 

See this thread:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=95248

 

It's not very difficult - I do mine myself every 5k and I am not particularly handy at ALL.

However, I would second the recommendation to drain through the plug, especially for the first one. You really need to let all the sediment from break-in (read: metal extrusions) drain out of the bottom. If you don't they'll continue to shuffle around in the new oil and really will make a change that early useless. I could visibly SEE the extrusions in my changed oil with my first change.

 

Doesn't the extractor suck from the bottom of the reservoir? Has someone actually tested that the bottom drain removes more sediment, or is this just theory?

 

I haven't ever done it myself, so I can't say from experience, but the general consensus is that there is a little bit of oil left behind when you use the extractor. There is a big long thread somewhere that people argue at length about it

For me, the whole point of doing an "early" change is to get that stuff out...and it's extremely easy to remove the plug (easier for me than removing the filter, actually), so it just seems to make more sense to do it by removing the plug.

 

Do you have access to a lift? Doesn't it require jacking up the car and putting stands under the four corners?

Have you figured out a way to remove the plug without getting oil all over your hand and wrench? See: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=95248

 

Nope. I do have a jack and jack stands but I don't use them for this.

I either back up to the edge of my driveway, where the "dip" is, or I drive foward so I'm halfway in the garage, halfway out - depending on the weather. Either way allows me just enough room to get under there with one hand.

However, I do not have a suggestion to deal with the vertical plug (stupid, I don't know why they did this). The best option really is to get some gloves, either just cheap-o throwaway latex gloves, or the longer, thicker "dishwashing" kind. Use paper shop towels to wipe them clean (and your wrench).

After my first one, I installed one of those "flip-open" type drain plugs. That should make it easier for the future.

 

Where do you get "flip-open" drain plugs that will fit an R56?

I Googled it and ran across a review for the Topside Oil Changer that claimed that Mercedes dealers use a suction system to remove oil through the dipstick port.
http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/2006_07.php

Seems that the reviews on Amazon.com are mixed. Some had great success, others not. Oil must be hot, have to pump it at least 50 times, may need to replace the vinyl draw tube with something that will stand up to the oil temperature better.

 

Question....I looked at this last night....how the heck do you get to the top of that canister. It's buried.....I was thinking I could remove the screw holding the resivor tank and just move it to the side while doing it.....is there another way that I am missing?

***EDIT *** I read (go figure) the above link...yes, I can move just the tank......

Thanks all!

 

I've heard horror stories about the tube getting stuck, and breaking off inside the dipstick tube.

 

I think I'd want to replace the tube with something that I was sure could handle the temp of oil in a hot engine. Perhaps brass tubing for the section that goes in the engine.

 

You heard those stories where? Source, please. The two tubes (select the one that fits properly) for insertion into the dipstick hole have a metal strip running all the way down to keep them pointed right at the bottom. You warm the engine up from COLD for FIVE MINUTES ONLY, to get the particulate mixed up into the oil. You don't put the tube into a smokin hot engine. You only need to pump the pump about a half dozen times and it's suckin oil. Go have a beer now...or go ahead and get going on removing the filter. By the time you're done with that, you'll have the oil out and you can fi release the suction valve on the oil extractor so you can then pour the oil into a storage pan or whatever you're going to take it to the recycler in, fill up with fresh oil and go driving....in the same pants you were wearing when you did the oil change. With an R56, you're not going to have to go under the car, so if you want to change your oil earlier than the factory recommended mileage, say every five thousand or six thousand miles, it's a snap. Of course you're going to let the dealer do it at the mileage marks they recommend and cover under your warranty. The only vehicle I've owned that I can't use this thing on is my Grinnall Scorpion (K1100 BMW motorcycle drivetrain) because of the convoluted route down and most of all the lack of a "tube" because the bike engine uses a visual "eye" on the side of the engine to check the oil level. But for a modern Mini, the thing is ready to go.
I got one of these extractors from Griot's Garage. It was under sixty five bucks. It's made for them by an outfit that specializes in these for home and commercial use and sells the same unit for over eighty bucks. It works fine. I know pros that use bigger models on diesel trucks. If you like jacking your car up, getting it on stands, the feel of that warm oil running down your arm and all over, stick with the old method by all means. Geez, I gotta sell everything that isn't old school to you guys?? IF you FOLLOW THE LITTLE INSTRUCTION SHEET, you'll be JUST FINE.

 

Real men don't read instructions! lol

 

Why would you want to drain synthetic oil at 2K Although 15K is a long time, that number could change over time, so don't worry about that, let the computer determine the intervals. When the 3 year period is over I plan on running the new "extended life" Mobil 1 that's good for 15K, but its too bad Mobil 1 doesn't make a filter for the MINI because I believe in synthetic filter media and there's alot of it those Mobil 1 filters too.

 

The idea is that the initial break-in puts a lot of metal into the oil -- much more than between normal oil changes. So, the first oil change is to get rid of the break-in debris.

After that, some believe that 15K is too long. From BMW's point of view, they need to get the engine past the warranty period, and they can save money by pushing the interval as long as possible. Those who want the engine going strong after 100K+ miles have slightly different priorities.

 

I plan on changing my oil soon, just past the 1250 mile mark this week. I think the extended oil change is to save BMW/MINI money, and, really depends on how you drive. The cars are designed to cruise at speeds over 100mph for long periods of time. With that kind of driving, long periods between oil changes are probably fine. For me, I am mostly zipping around town at around 30mph with the occassional mini motoring tour mixed in. I think 5000 miles between changes makes more sense, with an early, first change to flush things out. MINI will do a free annual oil chance if you are only doing a few thousand miles a year.

 

The very first oil change should be done early. A new engine is seating in all its mating parts and there is fuel blow-by which gets into the oil and breaks down the oil detergents faster.

I'll be changing mine at 1,000 miles. The again at 2,000 miles, then every 3,000 miles after that. Is it overkill? Considering my driving conditions, I do not think so. Most of my driving will be at speeds less than 45MPH. And during the summer time I will be in 100+F heat. And most of my driving is less than 2 miles at a time in a lot of stop and go traffic.

The only thing lacking is severe dust storms, and I could call it the worst driving conditions a car would have to endure. So, the oil changes will be more often for mine than if it were being driven on a freeway all the time.

 

Wouldn't this be true? In the summer the oil doesn't care as long as it does not overheat. It should not run significantly hotter. It may actually help to warm the oil quicker to offset your short trips.

 

The higher the ambient termperature, the quicker the viscosity chemicals break-down in the oil, as the engine oil is almost always some temperature above ambient. The temperature curve is not linear though. For an example, at an ambient of 50F, the oil temperature would probably be around 210 to 230F in normal driving. At 100F, the oil temperature may climb as high as 2900F in normal driving.

My driving is not normal as it is stop and go, the oil will run hotter than if the car was moving at a steady speed. A high ambient temperature is a detriment in stop and go conditions.

 

2900F ??? A little hot, don't you think? Maybe 290F.

Steve

 

Well, just wanted to see if anyone was paying attention.

I'll leave that typo for posterity.

 

 

Aside from the fact that some of us like to change our oil more frequently than the covered service intervals, it is sometimes easier to do it yourselves rather than driving 100+ miles each way to get to the dealer. From my perspective, I can do a full oil change in 20 miunutes while a round trip to the dealer is 3 hours without factoring in the time for the oil change. Besides, it wouldn't be a complete British ownership experince without getting yourself covered in oil now and then!