To Mini, or Not To Mini...
To Mini, or Not To Mini...
[size=2]Ive found an 03 MCS for sell. It has the color combo Im looking for, and the options are about right also. It does have the auto air, and I think Id rather have the manual but thats not going to be a show stopper. Theyre asking 22.5k USD, they might go down a bit, maybe not. Id like to offer them 20k. Its on a dealer lot, not a mini dealer. It appears to be bone stock with the premium and sport packages. From looking a Carfax it appears to have been originally received in late March 2003, the first service entry after purchase was a year later at 12k miles. That seems to be a long time to go for the first oil change but I guess they could have changed it them selves, I doubt it though. It now has 15k with one additional service entry 200 miles ago "Engine Service". I think I'm going to go test drive it today to see if its a dog but I don't really have much to compare it to. I may go by the mini dealer and see if I can drive another on off their lot for comparison. Anyway, does anyone think I should let the service history or the age be a deterrent toward this purchase?
TIA
p4
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TIA
p4
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my wisdom: it's always better to buy from the actual owner rather than a "broker" like a dealership. That way you can ask questions and get closer-to-accurate answers.
There are lots of MINIac's in the Austin area, perhaps someone with extensive MINI experience can help you check out the one on the lot?
There are lots of MINIac's in the Austin area, perhaps someone with extensive MINI experience can help you check out the one on the lot?
Sounds like a pretty good deal, but I'd want to be very sure any stumble/yo-yo issues were addressed very well. I'm a Cooper owner myself, but if I recall, my S slingin' comrades were very upset over a lack of performance at launch and/or low rpms, phenomenon which were somehow dubbed stumble and yo/yo. Seems like (I hope) these were addressed with software upgrades.....very important to have these on your MCS. (...any comments from S owners on this??)
So... when do this test drive, what is the best way to check for the yoyo? I've been reading about it over the last few weeks and haven't seen any way to make it happen. Some people say its at lower RPM and other say higher RPM. The stumble I think I can figure out, I used to have an 84 Ford that had a terrible stumble. Also is there something I can see without removing the airbox to check if the fan(s) harness has been upgraded?
TIA
p4
TIA
p4
6th Gear

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,627
Likes: 1
From: Neenah, WI
Everything you need to know about the yo-yo is here:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ght=chronicles
I'd be suprised if that dealer paid more than 17-18k for that car. I'd make your first offer in that range, and try to get them to come down to 20k. They should make a decnt profit at that price, but may be unwilling to move because that car probably draws alot of attention to their lot.
You can probably take the vin to a Mini dealer and find out the service history.
Try not to fall in love with the first car you drive...
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ght=chronicles
I'd be suprised if that dealer paid more than 17-18k for that car. I'd make your first offer in that range, and try to get them to come down to 20k. They should make a decnt profit at that price, but may be unwilling to move because that car probably draws alot of attention to their lot.
You can probably take the vin to a Mini dealer and find out the service history.
Try not to fall in love with the first car you drive...
I'd offer 20,000 tops and work up from there.
I don't think it is bad to say:
It's OK but it has stumble/hesitation in 1st gear at 1800 RPM (and point it out when it happens)
Or it has yo-yo/jerkiness at 2500 rpm on slowing in 2nd and 3rd gears.
Or it has a rattle in the door, or boot, or dash, or sunroof.
Or it has a window that rolls up or down slower on one side
Or it has a soft PCV hose and bad valve-check it on the cylinder cover.
Or the seats are worn.
Etc.
If any of these are really happening then offer less like $19,500 and work up in $100 increments.
Don't say you like the car. Keep a straight face and say you have driven other MINIs and this one isn't as smooth or whatever.
See how it shifts and try acceleration and deceleration in 1st through 3rd gears slowly to reveal stumble and yo-yo.
Look at the tires for irregular wear and damage to the rims. Check the top of the front tower struts for mushrooming damage when hitting potholes. Check for floor carpet damage a sign of flood/water damage.
The new price for that MCS with 2 packages was about $23,500-24,000 MSRP. I'd say a good price might be about $20,900-21,500 if in excellent condition.
I don't think it is bad to say:
It's OK but it has stumble/hesitation in 1st gear at 1800 RPM (and point it out when it happens)
Or it has yo-yo/jerkiness at 2500 rpm on slowing in 2nd and 3rd gears.
Or it has a rattle in the door, or boot, or dash, or sunroof.
Or it has a window that rolls up or down slower on one side
Or it has a soft PCV hose and bad valve-check it on the cylinder cover.
Or the seats are worn.
Etc.
If any of these are really happening then offer less like $19,500 and work up in $100 increments.
Don't say you like the car. Keep a straight face and say you have driven other MINIs and this one isn't as smooth or whatever.
See how it shifts and try acceleration and deceleration in 1st through 3rd gears slowly to reveal stumble and yo-yo.
Look at the tires for irregular wear and damage to the rims. Check the top of the front tower struts for mushrooming damage when hitting potholes. Check for floor carpet damage a sign of flood/water damage.
The new price for that MCS with 2 packages was about $23,500-24,000 MSRP. I'd say a good price might be about $20,900-21,500 if in excellent condition.
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