I have hard rubber pads on my lift arms and just run them up against the jack points then lift the car. I have a couple of the aluminum puck do-dads that I use when using the floor jacks, but getting four of them lined up under the lift arms would be an exercise in frustration since they don't attach to the car.

 

For the price of these ($15 each) I would not worry about them too much. Use a 1" piece of wood or piece of ply 4 " square on top of whatever you are lifting with. Those pieces are really tough but if you crush one - buy a new one from ECS and you're good to go!

 

I'm going to buy a Justa insert so I can keep my jack in it. Saves it moving around in the back. So I went to my dealer to make sure the jack would fit only to find out that the Coopers here in Canada do not have jacks. They all have runflats...I didn't look but I'm guessing no spare tire either.
Interestingly RealOEM makes no market differentiation - according to them the Coopers of "North America" are all the same.

 

That's interesting. The Canadian configurator shows that Coopers start with 16" wheels as standard, unlike the US (and most other parts of the world) where 15" is standard. Runflat tires are not manufactured in 15" size, which is why Coopers traditionally included a spare and jack.

 

My 2013 JCW came with a jack and MINImal tools. Jack has the ability to lift both front and rear at the same time.

ISAMIN

 

I had to fight to get a spare and a jack, but I did get one. The salesman said it was the only one in Western Canada.

This is why Buffalo exists for you, GregoryK!

 

:-) That's right. Just waiting to see if ECS tuning have any specials for Black Friday! The toolkit is already in "my cart"! Buffalo here I come...
You have run flat tires though right?

 

Since every flat I've had in the last 30 years has been a slow leak from a nail or screw, that's what I'm doing as well (2013 JCW). This "Lifeline AAA 300PSI 12 V DC Air Compressor" on amazon ( ) works great and fits in the space in the right rear quarter-panel (there is an access cover that is easy to remove). Wrap the compressor in a towel so it doesn't rattle.

This will let me ditch the run-flats. If we run over a nail, the compressor gets me home, where I can fix it.

 

Yes, I do.

 

Holiday sale is on right now and the SPIN To Win. Please take your items out of cart and then place back in so the sale price will populate.


https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4147787




And we will have more certain items on sale on Black Friday and cyber Monday. But you will have to wait.

Thanks

 

I'm back to figuring out what to do for when I put my JCW on my lift to do an oil change & a few other things. Re-visiting this thread tells me that it's really not necessary to get the puck do-dads that insert into the plastic rectangular jacking points for using a lift correct? But, I will need something to protect the plastic from breaking. The whole design seems kinda "dumb" to me.

I was going to just buy 4 of the ECS Tuning aluminum jack pad inserts (that are designed for using a floor jack)....but use them on my lift? Why would that be difficult to do? Seems it might take a little alignment and controlling the lift arms while adjusting the fitment before lifting....but, this method would protect the jack points (the plastic rectangular pieces installed in the under body) and provide for more separation from the rocker panels.

Honestly, I'd think having 4 2"x4" pieces would work just fine on my lift arms and spread the load across the plastic jack points.

What do those of you with a lift do when getting your MINI up in the air to work underneath? Out of all the cars I own, this dilemma just seems stupid, but I don't want to damage anything either. I've always used hockey pucks in the past, but I think they are too small to support the jack points. Maybe I need to just get some hard rubber pads..... and buy the an ECS Tuning Alum Insert for when I use a floor jack.

Thanks for any input,

John

 

I just use 3/4" thick plywood pads. Seem to work fine. They uniformly distribute the load on the plastic end points.

 

I am not a run flat fan and never have been and usually one of the first mods that I perform is new tires. I carry a VIAIR 12 volt compressor with a 12 volt extension cord and a dynaplug kit for plugging the hole and as last resort if necessary a large can of slime. Luckily, to-date I have had not to use them in over 4 years of carry them. The compressor has a nice carry case and I put a few tools in it as well for insurance. I switch it between cars dependent upon which one I am driving. In the event of catastrophic failure I will wait for the rollback. I did have a close call this MOTD with the original Dunlop runflats. I noticed a large bulge on the outside of the right front tire and realized I had a problem. I called Michelin onsite and they had a new set of Michelin pilot sport A/S 3+ tires for me the next day so I only lost a day of driving as I was afraid of driving on the bad tire. It was a good thing as there was a 6" tear in the inside liner. I think I got it on a hard turn on the Dragon. I felt the the tire lose traction and slide and more or less decided that I was going with a better tire regardless, but was going to wait until I returned home to have it done, but when I contacted Michelin they saved the trip for me! Kudos for them. Hereafter I will return to plan A and swap out the run flats before I take the new toy home! Just chalk it up to a necessity for having fun.