I think the sway bar can install with the DD's. It acts independently of the dampers, which don't reduce understeer. Not sure about the camber bushings. I'd just go with the sway bar and see how you like it. 22mm solid bar should be PLENTY of sway bar for this car. I think the R56 bars are solid, and the stock is 16 or 17mm. I had 19 and I could notice the difference. Too much and the back end can get a little squirrelly.

 

Yes with the Dynamic dampers it should be even better as they will change valving to improve more.
The extra camber in the front will improve the contact patch in the corner so again even more improvement with the dampers as they will work together well.

 

Does anyone in this thread know if the RSB is the same on both the JCW "Sport Suspension" and Suspension with DDC for 2015/2016?

 

There are three rear sway bars for all F56 according to RealOEM:

*One and Cooper with Standard or DDC suspension get #33506859891
*Cooper S, JCW, and all the Diesels with Standard or DDC suspension get #33506853918
*All F56 with Sport Suspension get #33506853919

So to answer your question, no, they're different.

 

Thanks, Ryephile. I appreciate the research and info. I now know I will be switching out the RSB.

 

There's also the Neuspeed [nm-eng] rear sway bar that's stiffer than all the factory rear bars, just FYI.

 

Being paranoid OCD about warranty issues, I may start with a JCW bar that Mini can't complain about and switch to a stiffer aftermarket later. My number of track sessions may not warrant that change for a while, but, unfortunately, I have few months to decide.

 

If your first stop with the car is the track, then I would recommend considering switching your configuration to the Sport Suspension so you get the bigger swaybars, and then pony up for the JCW Pro coilovers that are available from the dealer and covered under MINI warranty. IMO the Sport suspension alone is unacceptable for actual track work.

That combo of parts would give reasonable track competence for a sticky summer tire and be fully under the warranty. If you're considering a 100 treadwear track tire or stickier, at that point you need to look beyond the JCW Pro's and more like the KW Clubsports.


Just as a disclaimer, I've been tracking MINI's [and other cars too] for about 13 years now and have been down pretty much every path, from crappy lowering springs to full-custom ANZE/Penske's with Hoosier R7's on my current track toy.

 

[SIZE=2]You're much more hard-core than me[/SIZE][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]! The 2016 JCW is going to be the daily driver with occasional track appearances. The 2013 MCS is going to become the project car for the track. When I have refilled the budget, I'll be looking at some performance mods for the MCS including suspension. I'll probably switch this scheme when I take delivery on the JCW, but, will just see.[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]

 

To be honest, the new JCW will easily out-pace the R56 on the track. The engine, brakes, and suspension kinematics are all a full step up. You'll need cubic dollars to bring your R56 to the pace of the F56.

I know it might sound rough, but consider selling the R56 and use the money to DD the F56 w/ JCW Pro coilovers and have money left over for street and track tires. Have your cake and eat it too. It's seriously that much better. I haven't tracked my F56 yet, but I did do the Driving school at Indianapolis that used F56 JCW's, so there's that.

 

[SIZE=2]You are, obviously, correct about the differences between the vehicles. That's why I couldn't resist the JCW despite my dismay at the loss of classic speedo and body style changes. We may, in fact, wind up selling the R56 after taking delivery and experiencing the JCW. My track participation, compared to many others, will be relatively minimal. My wife also has an interest in taking a car on the track, so we'll see how that develops. I think the plan now is just to get the JCW home[/SIZE][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2], experience it as a daily driver and on the track for a teaser and take it from there. I don't foresee graduating from HPDE events to any kind of racing, unless I'm better than I think I am, so the R 56 may be a great car to share and upgrade while having a blast on the street and occasionally on the track, mostly stock, with the JCW. All too theoretical for now, however.[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]Also, my dealer couldn't even confirm the RSB part numbers. I'll deal with the RSB issue after delivery unless MINIUSA responds with helpful information.

 

Update: 22mm NM RSB ordered.

 

{Edited/fixed} The Sport Suspension and JCW rear sway bar 33506853919 is a hollow 21mm bar 39% stiffer that the s 33506853918. This information comes from the minimania page.

I have installed it and it makes a great difference. I am on winter tires so will know more in lat Spring.

ORIG Both JCW and S use the same sway bar part number 33506853919
ORIG I am trying to track down the part number for a JCW Pro ( or what ever it is called one that isa 22mm hollow bar 39% stiffer that stock

 

Had upgraded the rear sway bar on my JCW. It was the best mod I did. I would guess the car would be very slightly slower around the track but it transforms the way the car handles. So much more neutral and just easier to drive at the limits.

 

I corrected my post two up. GregoryK is your new bar sport suspention/JCW 33506853919? Or after market?

 

After Market. 22mm NM. I would go for the 25mm if I did it again...but the 22mm is excelent!

 

On this subject, I can recommend the hollow GP3 front.

 

Hi guys,

I'm based in Sweden and currently waiting for a 22mm Hardrace rear sway bar and adjustable end-links to arrive. So in the mean time I'm doing my homework on the install and from what I can gather the rear sub-frame needs to be dropped in order to access the sway bar to chassis mounts, never had to that on three previous sway bar DIYs on different cars so a little cautious as to how to proceed. ISTA mentions all sorts of prerequisites in order to access the sway bar like: remove exhaust system (!), disconnect brake lines (!) use special high floor jacks but i'm thinking it's the typical manufacturer's approach on such jobs when working on a ramp and having all the recommended workshop tools available which does not usually apply to DIY enthusiasts.

So people that have done this, @cargusjoh , @GregoryK maybe able to share how they went ahead or maybe some tips in order to best prepare for the job, aside from getting all the necessary sockets and bits of-course.

I'm also wondering about the end-links proper adjustment. So you want to eliminate any preload on the sway bar when the car is sitting flat on the road which would make me assume the end-link bolts should be tightened with either the car in full laden state (sitting on the ground) or if on stands, jacking each wheel back up to "standard" height, then adjusting the end link and tightening.
But in some vids (non MINI specific) that I have seen, the approach is to have the wheels hanging, do one side by adjusting the end-link (extending it), tightening that, then bringing the car to the ground and doing the other side which puzzles me as this should (?) mean that the first side which was tightened with the wheel hanging is now already applying some force to the other side and you do have pre-load on the bar. What am I missing here?

Thanks!

 

Hej.
My dealer did the install. They lowered but did not take out the subframe. It was about 3 hours labor, but book is a couple additional hours. I don't have any other information than that to share. I hope you have good success and love the ride. My 21MM hollow JCW bar (from stock 17mm solid) is a very nice change. Ha det bra!

 

I presented my usual mechanic with the same bar for a 13 coupe s and he quoted me $1100 for labor and said it's a beast to install, worth days of work. A little confused as to why he'd say that. And ideas, chaps??

 

My mechanic mentioned similar headaches. Wonder why for some it's an easy job and for others it's intricate???

 

that _6681;4616134]My mechanic mentioned similar headaches. Wonder why for some it's an easy job and for others it's intricate???[/QUOTE] I went ahead and installed it, but it wasn't the smoothest of processes, I ve posted in another thread about the issues I had which I finally remedied without braking something . It's definitely not days of work, and neither exhaust or brakes need removing. But it is a real pita working with that subframe not dropping lower.

it would take me 2-3hr tops if i did it again as opposed to 6, partly because i know now i must not worry fighting that damn thing all along the install, and should just go ahead. first time i was stopping all the time trying to find smoother alternative approaches, that dont exist.

 

I went ahead and installed it, but it wasn't the smoothest of processes, I ve posted in another thread about the issues I had which I finally remedied without braking something . It's definitely not days of work, and neither exhaust or brakes need removing. But it is a real pita working with that subframe not dropping lower.

it would take me 2-3hr tops if i did it again as opposed to 6, partly because i know now i must not worry fighting that damn thing all along the install, and should just go ahead. first time i was stopping all the time trying to find smoother alternative approaches, that dont exist.[/QUOTE]
I deeply appreciate this response. Perhaps it is in fact a more difficult process than many make it out to be. Thank you very kindly.

 

I deeply appreciate this response. Perhaps it is in fact a more difficult process than many make it out to be. Thank you very kindly.[/QUOTE]

Its actually very easy.
Use the right tools, have a pry bar handy.
Need 2 jack stands, and a floor jack available.

 

Its actually very easy.
Use the right tools, have a pry bar handy.
Need 2 jack stands, and a floor jack available.[/QUOTE]

Bwhahhahah.. wow. I surrender. Thank you for your input as well!