Interior/Exterior Need Help/Suggestions: Custom Switch Block?
#1
Need Help/Suggestions: Custom Switch Block?
I'm wanting to add a custom switch block beneath the existing switch panel on my MCS, using these switches:
http://www.oznium.com/rocker-switch
For now, I only have one switch I NEED to install, but I figure I'll do it right and make a block with 3 or 4 switches in a row - that way if I add in anything else later, I'll have a pre-placed switch to use.
The design I'm envisioning would be OPEN on the top and back and would attach via shallow screws threaded through small "L" shaped brackets to the bottom edge of the existing switch block. The sides and bottom would be solid. It would be just large enough to accomodate the switches I linked to, so approx. 1" tall, maybe 2" deep and as wide as it needs to be to fit 4 switches (4"-4.5" approx.).
I had HOPED that I could find some sort of existing box or something to use to install the switches into, but I'm just not seeing anything - can anyone suggest something? I don't have the right equipment to fabricate it out of metal, and I'm afraid that if I hand-build it out of, say, plasticard, that it will look amateur. I can try that though - I have modeling skills from doing miniatures for years and am comfortable with the idea of making a open-sided box out of plastic card, then sanding it and painting it... Unles someone has a better idea, of course.
Thanks!
http://www.oznium.com/rocker-switch
For now, I only have one switch I NEED to install, but I figure I'll do it right and make a block with 3 or 4 switches in a row - that way if I add in anything else later, I'll have a pre-placed switch to use.
The design I'm envisioning would be OPEN on the top and back and would attach via shallow screws threaded through small "L" shaped brackets to the bottom edge of the existing switch block. The sides and bottom would be solid. It would be just large enough to accomodate the switches I linked to, so approx. 1" tall, maybe 2" deep and as wide as it needs to be to fit 4 switches (4"-4.5" approx.).
I had HOPED that I could find some sort of existing box or something to use to install the switches into, but I'm just not seeing anything - can anyone suggest something? I don't have the right equipment to fabricate it out of metal, and I'm afraid that if I hand-build it out of, say, plasticard, that it will look amateur. I can try that though - I have modeling skills from doing miniatures for years and am comfortable with the idea of making a open-sided box out of plastic card, then sanding it and painting it... Unles someone has a better idea, of course.
Thanks!
#2
I've used those exact switches for pc modding projects. In the past I just used a dremel to fabricate both the bracket and finish clean the holes for the switches.
I know you said you don't have the tools but a dremel is a great tool that will cost you about 120 for the tool and all the accessories you would need. The only reason i mention it is getting a dremel and some al stock is prob cheaper then having something fabricated or even buying something.
I know you said you don't have the tools but a dremel is a great tool that will cost you about 120 for the tool and all the accessories you would need. The only reason i mention it is getting a dremel and some al stock is prob cheaper then having something fabricated or even buying something.
#3
I have a dremel, yes. I was just wondering what to make the box OUT OF. Metal would be ideal, but I don't have the tools needed to make the cuts and the precise 90-degree bends that a pro-look box would demand, nor do I have a painting booth to really finish it properly. Plastic has the benefit of softness, and plasticard (sheet styrene in USA terms) comes thick enough that I can cut and glue it, then sand down the edges so that it looks clean... I'm just worried about it warping on a hot summer day or something.
#4
excuse my 30 second mspaint example but i think it gets the job done.
This is what I would do. you make the cut in some alu stock like that. The while holes would actually be lined up and cut correctly for what you need. And then you score the back of the al stock so it bends correctly. You are basically making a cardboard box kindof witout a top. If you would like a backing to it it's not hard to add just add another rectangle on the back.
Any way back to scoring it. You just take the dremel cutting bit and you score the back without cutting through it. Then just rattle can the thing, along with wetsanding starting with 300-400 and going up until you get to a 1000-1200 emory. then clear coat it and put the switches in and you are done. I've painted a good number of computer cases this way and if you get it right it looks just about as deep as a car finish.
Pm me if you want to persue this route and Ill help with a actual photoshop cutout list etc.
gl
This is what I would do. you make the cut in some alu stock like that. The while holes would actually be lined up and cut correctly for what you need. And then you score the back of the al stock so it bends correctly. You are basically making a cardboard box kindof witout a top. If you would like a backing to it it's not hard to add just add another rectangle on the back.
Any way back to scoring it. You just take the dremel cutting bit and you score the back without cutting through it. Then just rattle can the thing, along with wetsanding starting with 300-400 and going up until you get to a 1000-1200 emory. then clear coat it and put the switches in and you are done. I've painted a good number of computer cases this way and if you get it right it looks just about as deep as a car finish.
Pm me if you want to persue this route and Ill help with a actual photoshop cutout list etc.
gl
#5
I PM'd you, Prime - thanks...
If anyone's having trouble imagining what I'm doing, here's a quickie mock-up...
The switches are approx. 1" in diamater.
The left switch is a 3-position switch with a SEPERATE blue LED and the other switches are 2-position switches wth an LED built in.
The front, back, bottom and sides will be SOLID and the top will be OPEN, so I can easily tuck wires. The wires will sit in the notch and then, from there, will pass through the access panel in the center column behind the cigatette lighter. From there I should be able to fish them anbywhere in the car.
The side brackets are simple "L" shapes and will be screwed into the bottom of the existing switch bar with shallow screws. If I have room in there, I can use small nuts and bolts as well, either/or.
If anyone's having trouble imagining what I'm doing, here's a quickie mock-up...
The switches are approx. 1" in diamater.
The left switch is a 3-position switch with a SEPERATE blue LED and the other switches are 2-position switches wth an LED built in.
The front, back, bottom and sides will be SOLID and the top will be OPEN, so I can easily tuck wires. The wires will sit in the notch and then, from there, will pass through the access panel in the center column behind the cigatette lighter. From there I should be able to fish them anbywhere in the car.
The side brackets are simple "L" shapes and will be screwed into the bottom of the existing switch bar with shallow screws. If I have room in there, I can use small nuts and bolts as well, either/or.
#7
I've seen that and there are a few problems, mainly that the switches I want to use won't fit in there, and the switches that come with the spare block aren't capable of being wired to aftermarket stuff (grrrr....). Plus the extra block is a bit larger than I want to go. At 1.5" tall, this will be lower-profile. PLus the extra row of switch "bars" look a bit cluttered, I think.
I DID find some carbon-fiber patterned vinyl though - I may wrap the front and sides of the box with that instead of painting it. That would be very durable and look interesting I think.
I DID find some carbon-fiber patterned vinyl though - I may wrap the front and sides of the box with that instead of painting it. That would be very durable and look interesting I think.
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