Here's a pic of the gauges I've installed. Still have a few issues with the boost gauge, but the oil temp/pressure gauge is done. I'll post more pics and a FAQ of the install when I finish.

 

I want an oil pressure and oil temp gauge!!!

 

>>Here's a pic of the gauges I've installed. Still have a few issues with the boost gauge, but the oil temp/pressure gauge is done. I'll post more pics and a FAQ of the install when I finish.



What picture???

 

I see it on my post and on your reply. But there might be some issues with the pic - I posted it on Ofoto because the NAM gallery is still down. here's the direct link:
http://images.ofoto.com/photos577/9/...5905_0_ALB.jpg

 

I don't see any picture here. The link doesn't work either.

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04 IB/W JCW MCS

 

Can anyone but me see these?? If not, I'll delete the post and wait for the NAM Gallery to come back up.

 

ofoto is wierd. here's your pic:

 

What did you do with the wiring behind the gauges to hide it? This is one of the problems of this set up. Perhaps you can let us know what you did to achieve this? Thanks........

 

I found the vacuum leak and it's all done now.
The wiring was a major PITA, compounded by the extra wiring of the SPA gauge. The SPA gauge has a wire for the temp sensor, one for the pressure sensor, a power line, a ground line and a line for the menu button. So there's a pretty hefty bundle of wires to deal with. I coudn;t get the under the plastic piece behind the tach (even after clearancing it), they're on top of it
.
I ended up using a brass elbow for the vacuum line to have the clearance to not hit the dash withthe connector for the vacuum line. The lighting for the vacuum gauge is tied into the power for the SPA gauge, the SAP gauge is internally dimming, the boost gauge is not. If it turns out that the boost gauge is too bright I'll have to reroute it's lighting. But I think witht he red light bulb cover I'll be OK.

If you look at the gauges from outside the car you can see some wiring, but I don't think it is too bad aesthetically. I'll post more pics when the NAM galleries are back up.

 

Would something like this help clean it up:

Tubing

 

It would depend on how many of the connectors you could hide inside of it. I used some black electrical tape to accomplish somewhat of the same thing. Also, if there is such a thing as a shallower (thinner) boost gauge then that would also help hide and fit the vacuum line connections.

 

I'm still working on a FAQ (well, no I'm not I've been too busy), but here's a picture that shows how I mounted the sensors for the SPA gauge. The small flash of flourescent green is the oil pressure switch. I installed Promini's adaptor fitting between this and the engine. From the adaptor I have a short length of Aeroquip braided steel hose running up to an L bracket I fabricated and mounted to the plastic firewall to hold the pressure sensor. You can also see the filter canister that I had tapped for the oil temperature sensor.


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IB/W some mods[img]null[/img]

 

Is there no better place to tap into oil pressure than drilling the oil filter canister? It's hard to believe there isn't another location. Where is the stock oil pressure sensor? Couldn't we use a "T" fitting to screw both sensors into the same location on the block?

 

The oil TEMPERATURE sensor goes on the filter canister. The pressure sensor is teed off where the factory pressure switch goes: you can barely see it where the bright green plastic is above the exhasut manifold. I didn't put the temp senso whre the pressure sensor goes becasue it would have been out of the flow of oil and apt to give inaccurate readings. I don't think that what I did is the easiest way - just the best.

 

With the temp sensor installed in the drill and taped oil canister, is there a method for removing the canister during your oil change that does not involved having to unscrew the sensor?

SMKKVK
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>>The oil TEMPERATURE sensor goes on the filter canister.

 

I can disconnect the sensor wire from the connector fitting. This leaves me with a 4" pigtail and the sensor still connected ato the cannister. Then I can remove the canister with an oil filter wrench.

 

Won't the sensor hole in the filter housing see the same pressure as the rest of the engine, yet lower temperature? It seems like the temp sensor should be closer to the block.

 

>>Won't the sensor hole in the filter housing see the same pressure as the rest of the engine, yet lower temperature? It seems like the temp sensor should be closer to the block.

Yes the pressure sensor could have gone in the filter, but then where to put the temp sensor? I was also told that it was a good idea to remote mount the pressure sensor as they are more prone to failure from vibration. And, the SPA sensors are expensive little sh#ts.
If the temp sensor was mounted in a dead end path, i.e. the tee where the pressure switch is, it just made sense that it might not be seeing the full temperature range. We should compare temps for the different mounting positions and see what the differential is (filter, pressure tee, drain plug, line to an oil cooler,...) BTW the highest temp I've seen on the street in cool weather is 185 degrees F. I'm going to the track tomorrow so I'll be able to post the temp readings I see there tomorrow night.

 

Update on oil temps on the track:
65 degrees ambient.
High temp observed 230 degrees, usual temp on track: 205 degrees.

Oil pressures stayed in the 40-60 range with no drop-off during cornering.

 

Thanks for posting the oil info. What sort of peak boost did you see?

 

Interesting you should ask, as we were discussing this at the track.
I see 12psi max boost with a 15% Alta pulley and the Alta intake. What effect do you think our elevation has on boost pressure?

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IB/W some mods

 

I am at near sealevel (under 300 ft) and with a 15% pulley and intake I get 15 psi max boost. I just got my gage hooked up this weekend. I still need to get the oil pressure gage and the lights hooked up but the mounts are completed.

 

ColoradoMark,

What is your gauge reading with the ignition turned on but the engine off? High elevation will definitely affect your boost readings.

 

>>ColoradoMark,
>>
>>What is your gauge reading with the ignition turned on but the engine off? High elevation will definitely affect your boost readings.

I believe it's zero, but the car is put away off-site until the next track event so I can't check. Is this a trick question?

 

Nope, not a trick question at all. At sea level, air pressure is about 30 in. Hg. At 7,000 ft, air pressure is about 25 in. Hg. absolute. That's a big difference. Each in. Hg is about 0.5 psi, so you're starting off with a 2.5 psi disadvantage compared to us flatlanders.
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