The JCW does not include the harness.

 

thanks guys!

Coen

 

Ow heey

Does the R56 steering wheel fit the R53???

anybody????

Coen

 

nice Question eey

Coen

 

The answer is no, R53/R56 steering wheels are not compatible.

 

Just to clarify on the wiring harness issue...

If you currently have a 2-spoke multi-function wheel, the wiring harness on that wheel IS NOT compatible with the multi-function controls on a 3-spoke sport or 3-spoke JCW wheel.

The 3-spoke sport and 3-spoke JCW wheel use a different wiring harness.

Now, if you currently own a 3-spoke sport wheel, you can basically reuse the wiring harness, (and multi-function control inserts), when you install your 3-spoke JCW wheel.

I hope this is clear. PM me if you need more clarification.

 

UPDATE!!!
my extra wiring harness has been SOLD!

Oh, by the way, I happen to have an extra wiring harness for the 3-spoke steering wheel with multi-function controls.

See my thread in the FOR SALE section of NAM:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...84#post1770484

UPDATE!!!
my extra wiring harness has been SOLD!

 

Had to bump this thread up to do this install

 

bump again... so the mfsw buttons alone are $190 for the set? gosh that's more than the steering wheel itself!

 

I'm not so sure what you're talking about, heyitzsushiboi!

In my research, the best price for the JCW steering wheel itself was at Morristown MINI's eBay store, for $375. This was the best deal out there, by hundreds of dollars...

Therefore, the controls being $190, are almost half the cost of the wheel itself.

 

I'd really like to change my lame 2 spoke steering wheel to the JCW leather/alcantara wheel. Where can I get all the tings that I need? Any web shop that can provide everything?

Regards
Cooper S GGR

 

Hey guys i've searched everywhere but cant find how to remove the airbag/horn from the stock 3 spoke, so i can move it to my JCW. Does anyone know how?

 

Thanks jonnieoh for the great writeup. i just did this mod to my '04 and man, what a difference in feel! Every time I get in I'm like "yeh this is sweet!"

Not sure if it's different between coopers but a 17mm socket in the writeup didn't work for me to remove the wheel—it actually ended up being 5/8". Other than that, everything was spot on in the guide. I put the inserts in before putting the wheel on though... easier to screw them in with the wheel off first imo. Even the radio/cruise buttons light up... that was a nice surprise.

 

I did this swap today, it wasn't overly hard although I had some trouble with the 16mm nut keeping the wheel on the column, it just wouldn't unlock, but in the end I did it. However, I've got a problem as I forgot to check the white ring underneath the steering wheel for alignment, so I aligned the wheel with the spindle and the car goes perfectly straight with the wheel in center position, however when I turn the wheel I hear a loud noise almost like a crack. The moment I heard it I cursed as I remembered I should have checked that ring for alignment, I had read it somewhere time ago, but I forgot it today. So I am wondering, since I plan to keep the car put until I can take the st. wheel off again, does anyone know just how that thing is aligned correctly with the wheel? I hope I haven't already broken it but I fear so...anyway, even if I have, can someone tell me how to align it so that I don't end breaking another one if I have to change it? Thanks

 

16 mm was still too big for me on the wheel... I ended up with 5/8 and it came right off.

If I remember right there's really only one way the wheel goes on. On the plastic volute spring, there's a little **** at 6 o'clock... that **** fits into a hole on the bottom of the wheel. (And of course there's one big tooth that helps you stick it on the column.) I'm guessing you didn't have it on square (ie it was slightly angled) so when you turned the wheel it put pressure on the spring.

Whether you broke it or not... you'll have to remove the wheel and see. Does is still sound bad when you turn the wheel? that plastic piece is relatively cheap... under $30 I think if you did break it. The 3 spoke airbag is no picnic to remove though as I've read.

 

Yeah it still does that sound when turning the wheel. The 3 spoke airbag is tricky to remove but not overly difficult, I've already removed it and going to try and remove the wheel again now.

We are talking about part number three on this link, right?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...g=35&lang=enUS

How do I see if it is broken? Also, I've read now on the BMW instructions that if that slip ring rotates when you take off the wheel, then you have to rotate it on full lock counterclockwise, the clockwise, and then put it back on center. Of course, when I did the swap yesterday I didn't know this, so it rotated, and I just put it back on center, so it may be that it is not badly aligned but just that I didn't follow the procedure to "reset" it. Oh well, I guess I just have to take the wheel off and see.

 

Ok, so, I took the wheel off again, "reset" the slip ring like the BMW instructions say, then put the wheel back on making sure the slip ring was aligned with it (which it wasn't the first time, very slightly but it was outside the hole in the wheel). Result, the problem's gone, and at the same time it is not

I'm going to explain. When I reset the slip ring, rotating it to full lock counterclcokwise and then clockwise, rotating it clockwise it stopped earlier than counterclockwise (it did 2 whole turns instead of three I think). Now, once I put the wheel back on, the wheel makes no noise when turning, but I can't reach full lock turning it right, I find a resistance before reaching full lock and I didn't try forcing my way past it for fear of breaking something.

Any ideas what the problem is? Did I damage the spring when I turned the wheel with the slip ring not perfectly aligned (when I heard that noise)? Or should I just take it off again and redo the "reset" thing more carefully?

 

Ok then, it seems that third time is truly a charm Took everything apart again, did the reset thing more carefully, counting how many complete rotations the slip ring could do from full lock counterclockwise to full lock clockwise, and then set it in the middle of that. Put it everything in its place again, and it all goes well now, no noise and no difference in steering from left to right.

I've bought a slip ring off ebay for 20$ anyway, I'll keep that as a spare just to be safe

Oh, and for those who didn't know it, the nut keeping the steering wheel in place on the column can be unbolted with the wheel-nut wrench that comes with the car (I mean the one supposedly to be used to take off the nuts on the wheels), the nut is 16mm and the wrench is 17 but it works all the same, at least it did for me. Try that first before buying other wrenches if you don't already have one with a long leverage (believe me the nut is pretty tight).

 

How do you disconnect the green and black wires from the airbag? I'm having a very tough time with this... I tried almost everything except breaking it, which is usually my solution... This time, I'd rather wait and get an answer...

Thanks,
Leo.

 

False alarm, just got it...

 

Good to hear.. I remember it took me a few minutes to decipher exactly how to detach those plugs too... you definitely don't want to break 'em!

For future reference and anyone else viewing this thread and is having the same problem... if I remember, there was a little "catch" guard on the end that prevents it from popping out.. you just squeeze that piece together releasing the guard, then the plugs pop out freely.

 

I used a small flat screwdriver to unlock that guard, if I remember there is a space nder which you can fit it, and then use it as leverage to unlock the guard.