How about putting his body to my head and vise versa...:eek2: :lol:

spent several hours in the mts this weekend and I have a set of these in my future..... brakes got very hot...no smoke but a lot of smell..... Sid, once again...hats off

Yeah what he said.

Only did the cruise. I can reach over and adjust the radio. However I am toying with the idea of migrating to one of these...

http://www.f1technical.net/articles/...eering-bmw.jpg

1. Cop in area speed limiter
2. Differential +
3. Engine push - aka Send more money to RMW
4. Gear upshift
5. Traction control +
6. Engine push setting switch - sets amount of money to be sent to RMW
7. Clutch lever
8. Traction control
9. Shut down MSFITOY
10. Burn out
11. Multifunctional switch
12. Lambda - aka Find nearest Frat House party
13. Diagnostic - send data log to RMW to adjust tune
14. Wing angle info switch
15. Clutch
16. Read NAM Flamefests
17. Radio - Preset to NPR and WXPN
18. Traction control - aka dump oil on roadway behind me
19. Gear downshift
20. Engine break signal to other cars in my way
21. Differential -
22. Neutral
23. Display page change

......................... Nathan I thought that was your next secret mod! :thumbsup:

Thanks Bob...I owe you a call...my cell's been acting up...ttyl...:)

:lol: :lol: :lol: Good one Nate...:grin:

Here's how I zip-tied the passenger side today. Very sturdy and yet flexes ever so slightly. Clears the wheels too as far as I can tell - haven't driven the car yet though. Still have to do the driver's side....

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1407/...ace61becbb.jpg

Passenger side cut out

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1246/...e64d8f84fa.jpg

Ram intake fitting

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1202/...ef4ae4d182.jpg

Duct fitting

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1340/...c2ebbcac1c.jpg

Initial amount of plastic removed - more since then!

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1017/...51ed7c7993.jpg

As you can see on the passenger side, I didn't see the need to dremmel the metal bumper. On the driver side, I ground away a tiny bit of one corner. Since it appears the ducts are hand made, both sides aren't identical in their shape.... Will tackle the driver side on tomorrow... and then have to figure out how to attach the ram intake. Right now I"m thinking about a few stainless steel bolts for the rugged look. :grin:

I have less than 1" of clearance to the crank pulley but there are two bolts that stick up from the subframe (that hold the MFE in) that prevent it from sliding over....plus the zip ties...

And for the record the ducts point cool air directly at the calipers....and perhaps just the upper 2/3's of it.....

can we get more install pics? can both of you still turn lock to lock?

I had to trim the end of the ducts in order to turn lock to lock.

Easy peasy.

Here is my thread with the rest of my pics:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=116961

Turning lock to lock has not been effected.

few more questions:

has anyone been able to connect the ductword to the hub or just blow towards it?

what was your previous rotor replacement before and after the ducts?

Right now I just blow towards it. Working on some backing plates that can accept a flex hose that will then be connected to the vent.

As it is now even on 100+ degree days I don't have any issues with fade on long track sessions.

with the MINI brakes on the front of the axle it's really hard to get air into the hub. there's just not much room. my concern is not getting the air into the hub and just cooling the inside half of the rotor. that would cause warping. i'm already going through a few sets of rotors a year. my is to pay now so i don't spend so much on rotors. I hope this can help.

I think it depends on what rotors you are using. Having a BBK with internal vanes goes a long way to providing even cooling. The vents point air to the caliper and front side of the hub. From there the vanes pump the air out of the rotor.

I've been using the ducts on the race car with great results in brake wear and fade. The ducts have kept me from having any fade due to heat, and I haven't warped a set of rotors yet. I've had several customers that have installed them and called to tell me that their first track day after install went so much better. One guy in California was going through a set of rotors every track day and now he's not. GP owners have been using them with good success also.

As for attaching a hose to the backing plate. There isn't much room there and the way the duct comes out on the subframe if you put a hose on it the wheel will prob. hit it when it's at full lock. If a duct goes around the other side of the subframe it will get in the way of the axle. Hope that helps.

WAY

Hello Way. I was also at the wicks school at CMP. That was the first event that i ever got past by a MINI. The guy that works with you i think. Still my daily driver and heavy. I'd like to stop cracking rotors. I hit a racoon or cat the other day at highway speeds and knocked out a frog light and what better reason to take them out for brake cooling. I like the kit you sell. I think we spoke years ago when you first put it on the market. I just can't afford it but need it. What are your thoughts on these ducts cooling a full weight car with the 13" rotors. There's so little room for cool air to get in the center hub.

Thanks,

Well as for cooling a full weight car. I'am the only one with a stripped down car so all the sets except one or two are on full weight cars and working great. I think it will work even better with your 13in rotors due to them being out furthur they are closer to the duct as you turn. Due to how hard I run the brakes we also had other heat issues with balljoints and wiring that this solved. The real question comes to how many sets of rotors can you buy instead of the ducts?

Come to more track days with Matt and I and we'll be happy to make a MINI pass you.:wink:

P.S. they make great christmas gifts.

WOW, Way is giving Brake Ducts for Christmas!!!! :thumbsup:

You have my address :lol:


(The above is a perfect example of how vicious rumors are started)

I'll see what i can do for a christmas present. I already need new rotors too. :-(

They are fantastic on my GP,after 7 hard sessions at WGI I had no rear brake pads left at all (down to metal), but had plenty left on the front pads, I also did not have any brake fade. On the street at less than average speeds I get a better response too :thumbsup:.

Gary
What are you using for pads that you ate up rears? :confused: I've gone over 26 track days and have plenty of rear pads left. Rears should be a non issue.

my rear rotors where wearing on the street more than my fronts. I have now put more aggressive front pads on, and they are catching up, hahah. From What i have seen, there is no rhyme or reason as to why some minis rear wear so fast, and other not at all. Beecher

Gary, can you post some pics of the brake duct install on your GP. I have yet to see them. GP owners have told me they fit perfect.

With the brake ducts installed are there any problems encounterd when doing a belt change? Can the belt change be done with the duct still in place or does it have to be removed?
Thanks, Steve

As wild as this sounds, I've done a belt change without taking the wheel off or jacking the car up at all. It helps that my arms are long and I have slender wrists. Yeah...I got cut up and scratched...