How To Carbon Build-Up Cleaning - The right way...
#52
09-24-2012, 06:52 PM
#54
10-04-2012, 11:01 AM
5th Gear
#55
11-20-2012, 01:13 PM
#56
11-20-2012, 02:00 PM
#57
11-26-2012, 04:49 PM
Again, thanks for the awesome instructions. Here's a link to my thread where I could not get my MINI to start after doing the cleaning, including my pointers for not repeating what I think I did wrong.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-cleaning.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-cleaning.html
#58
12-13-2012, 08:26 AM
I think i might be changing the instructions to an easier process. I purchased the media blaster attachments that the dealership uses to blast the valves with walnut shells. Just waiting for them to arrive.
I just bought the attachments so i will need to build the other parts to hook up to a compressor and the blaster.
I noticed my valves are getting coated up again and its only been about 15k miles.
I will post updates once everything comes in.
I just bought the attachments so i will need to build the other parts to hook up to a compressor and the blaster.
I noticed my valves are getting coated up again and its only been about 15k miles.
I will post updates once everything comes in.
#62
01-09-2013, 12:07 AM
#63
01-13-2013, 04:49 PM
Just a quick tip for rotating an engine when you can't easily access the crank nose. Only works with a manual transmission though. Put the transmission in anything above 4th gear with clutch out and the brakes off, car on a relatively smooth surface, and just grab the upper surface of one of the front tires and roll the car backwards or forwards by turning the wheel with muscle. It's actually easy and you get pretty good control of the engine's rotation. OH!!! Make sure the ignition is off too! 
Pat
Pat
#64
01-17-2013, 12:14 PM
Excellent write-up. Appreciate your service to the community. 
Was the $250 dealer method the glorified BMW-brand Seafoam soak, or was it the walnut blaster? If the latter, I'm somewhat surprised it was so ineffective (but probably not, as I think they charge quite a bit more for the walnut blaster service).
Was the $250 dealer method the glorified BMW-brand Seafoam soak, or was it the walnut blaster? If the latter, I'm somewhat surprised it was so ineffective (but probably not, as I think they charge quite a bit more for the walnut blaster service).
#65
01-21-2013, 07:24 AM
Just a quick tip for rotating an engine when you can't easily access the crank nose. Only works with a manual transmission though. Put the transmission in anything above 4th gear with clutch out and the brakes off, car on a relatively smooth surface, and just grab the upper surface of one of the front tires and roll the car backwards or forwards by turning the wheel with muscle. It's actually easy and you get pretty good control of the engine's rotation. OH!!! Make sure the ignition is off too!
Pat
Pat
#66
04-20-2013, 06:15 PM
Thank you to the OP and others who contributed here. I used a combination of the manual and walnut shell method. I say that because my carbon buildup was so bad that the blast would not remove it all. Car was running ok, just rough and lacking power. No wonder. This is approx 80k miles on an 08 MCS.....had to chip off chunks with a pick prior to blasting....
Drivers side....side closest to Pcv entry....
Same valve close up on my inspection cam.....chunky.
The other three....
Test drive after cleaning revealed power I have been missing for some time. Wow! Drastic improvement! Time well spent.
Thanks again.
Drivers side....side closest to Pcv entry....
Same valve close up on my inspection cam.....chunky.
The other three....
Test drive after cleaning revealed power I have been missing for some time. Wow! Drastic improvement! Time well spent.
Thanks again.
#67
04-21-2013, 12:39 PM
#68
04-21-2013, 12:50 PM
2nd Gear
Join Date: May 2008
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Mine did it because of a bad thermostat.
#69
04-28-2013, 05:28 AM
5th Gear
Here's a DIY for doing your own walnut blasting:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ss-3-27-13.pdf
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ss-3-27-13.pdf
#70
05-23-2013, 04:05 PM
1st Gear
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Manchester, UK
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Great write up ...butttt
Great write up and very detailed. Is this the best way to clean away any carbon build up? My engine started to judder recently (after messing around with the spark plugs) and judders really bad when trying to accelerate on low revs/higher gear and it's doing my head in. Something else I noticed was that when the car is in idle, it sits on around 700rpm and its really scaring me
! Any help would be appreciated. Not sure where to post this message but great write up and thanks for the info already
! Any help would be appreciated. Not sure where to post this message but great write up and thanks for the info already
#71
05-23-2013, 08:43 PM
5th Gear
Walnut shell blasting is the preferred method and the method the dealers use. Here in the States the cost is about $800! Walnut shells are hard enough to remove the build up but will not harm the aluminum intake surfaces to the valves.
Is your MINI a second generation (2007 or later for hatchback)? Carbon build up is not a problem with first generation MINIs. It is a problem with direct injected engines.
Some have reported misfiring and error codes from carbon build up but for most it is a gradual loss of power and sluggish throttle response.
Is your MINI a second generation (2007 or later for hatchback)? Carbon build up is not a problem with first generation MINIs. It is a problem with direct injected engines.
Some have reported misfiring and error codes from carbon build up but for most it is a gradual loss of power and sluggish throttle response.
#72
05-24-2013, 06:00 PM
1st Gear
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Manchester, UK
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Walnut shell blasting is the preferred method and the method the dealers use. Here in the States the cost is about $800! Walnut shells are hard enough to remove the build up but will not harm the aluminum intake surfaces to the valves.
Is your MINI a second generation (2007 or later for hatchback)? Carbon build up is not a problem with first generation MINIs. It is a problem with direct injected engines.
Some have reported misfiring and error codes from carbon build up but for most it is a gradual loss of power and sluggish throttle response.
Is your MINI a second generation (2007 or later for hatchback)? Carbon build up is not a problem with first generation MINIs. It is a problem with direct injected engines.
Some have reported misfiring and error codes from carbon build up but for most it is a gradual loss of power and sluggish throttle response.
Anyway thanks again for the information dude
#73
12-23-2013, 07:10 PM
Help!
Where exactly is that 10mm bolt?
Rob
is
Rob
is
There are a couple of things that need to be added.
First there is a 10mm bolt on the bottom of the manifold that has to be removed before it can be taken out. The best way to get to it is to remove the pass side tire. This also allows access to the crank shaft bolt. Using a 18 mm socket the engine can be turned over with a ratchet instead of using the starter to bump the engine.
Second there are 3 wiring holders that need to be released before the intake can be removed.
Getting the correct brush to do the job will make job easier.
My throttle body didnt need to be cleaned.
If I had to do it again it would be much quicker the second time.
The hardest part was the 10mm bolt that i didnt know about. Once that was removed the intake came out easy.
The car seems to run better, pulls and revs better.
Thanks for the guide it helped alot.
First there is a 10mm bolt on the bottom of the manifold that has to be removed before it can be taken out. The best way to get to it is to remove the pass side tire. This also allows access to the crank shaft bolt. Using a 18 mm socket the engine can be turned over with a ratchet instead of using the starter to bump the engine.
Second there are 3 wiring holders that need to be released before the intake can be removed.
Getting the correct brush to do the job will make job easier.
My throttle body didnt need to be cleaned.
If I had to do it again it would be much quicker the second time.
The hardest part was the 10mm bolt that i didnt know about. Once that was removed the intake came out easy.
The car seems to run better, pulls and revs better.
Thanks for the guide it helped alot.
#75
12-24-2013, 06:36 PM