When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So, I’ve been messing with this, and researching RFID chips, and I don’t think the copper wound part is the complete chip, only the antenna, which I think is what is causing my issue. I unwound the one that came from my donor key, and it appears to just be a small magnet underneath. I think the actual chip is part of the board, and the coil wires on the antenna connect to it when mounted. For those that have converted non remote keys by popping off the antenna and installing a stand alone chip in it’s place, the stand alone chip is taking over for the board chip which no longer broadcasts its signal without an antenna. Just my theory based on my findings, but I am determined to make this work.
The small 'magnet' that is wound in the copper coil is the chip that you want, when I did my key that is all I transferred across (I think I had to break the coil and did not use it in donor key, that's on my R52 key)
Thanks for the reply. What I am saying is that I tried to swap the coil wound part from one remote board to another remote board, and it did not work. I googled RFID chip images, and from what I can tell, the coil wrapped part is just an antenna for the actual chip that has the code and is part of the board. Removing the antenna from the donor board effectively renders that boards chip useless, so adding the sealed chip from a non remote key in its place works. I think there are 2 ends of the coil that connect to the board to connect to the actual chip, as I tried to reinstall my original coil to my original board that started the car before, and it does not work now. I’m going to try to reconnect the wires to the terminals, and see if that works. That will verify if I am on the right track or not.
OK, I now feel pretty comfortable in saying that I have proven my theory. I took the good remaining copper wound part and reinstalled it on my original circuit board, this time with the two wire ends contacting the metal holders at each end, low and behold, the key started the car. I did the same thing in the donor chip, it didn’t start the car. This solidified my thought that for the remote keys, the actual chip that has the code is in the board, and the coil wrapped part is just an antenna that connects to the actual chip. Bummer for me as now I have to swap the unlock switches between boards to fix mine, as well as glue the antenna back in and make sure it stays connected. Glad I figured this out.
So, after properly reinstalling the RFID antenna, I started to mess with the broken unlock key. I tried to swap the two known working switches from the used key I bought, and it still does not work. I am starting to think it is a deeper issue and I need to throw in the towel on this remote. I think i’m going to order a new non remote key, and another $9 used remote key, and make a working remote key. I like the idea of this better than buying a new remote key as it is $100 cheaper, plus if the remote fails, I can always swap the contained RFID chip to another used board down the road, whereas the remote keys have the RFID built in and cannot be easily removed. Heading to the dealer tomorrow to place my order.
Here's an exploded diagram of the BMW Diamond key, which is essentially what the flat, three button MINI keys are. You will note that the EWS transponder is a board mounted device with 8 pins, unlike the ID44 device in the non remote key. Also, the wire wrapped thing is the EWS pickup and battery charge coil. While pulling that will disable the EWS system, it also disables the induction charging system for the rechargeable battery, so pulling that is not a good idea. If you do a bit of web searching you will find which pins on the EWS to unsolder to render it useless- that's the correct way to disable it if you are going to slip in an ID44 chip from a non-remote key. I remember seeing this somewhere on a BMW board but can't find it at this point.
Do I have it right that if you disable the on board chip and go with a different ID44, you are then in a world of pain to get that particular chip matched to the EMS, unless you buy it direct from Mini and already factory customized to your VIN?
It is my understanding that you need to get a programmed chip from mini that matches one of the 10 codes in your on board “reader.” The only way around is if you have the software/tool to reprogram the on board security programmer to input your own codes.
Has anyone successfully transplanted their programmed RFID chip from one remote circuit board to another? Wondering if I can just do that to replace the broken remote key that I have that still starts the car.
Here's an exploded diagram of the BMW Diamond key, which is essentially what the flat, three button MINI keys are. You will note that the EWS transponder is a board mounted device with 8 pins, unlike the ID44 device in the non remote key. Also, the wire wrapped thing is the EWS pickup and battery charge coil. While pulling that will disable the EWS system, it also disables the induction charging system for the rechargeable battery, so pulling that is not a good idea. If you do a bit of web searching you will find which pins on the EWS to unsolder to render it useless- that's the correct way to disable it if you are going to slip in an ID44 chip from a non-remote key. I remember seeing this somewhere on a BMW board but can't find it at this point.
For my R53, the RFID transponder is a little black plastic rectangle about twice the size of a grain of rice. I know this, because I lost it the first time I replaced the lithium ion rechargable button cell in mine. The car wouldn't start, until I went back and found the stupid thing under the workbench, and stuffed it back in the key. There aren't any wires, markings, or antennas hooked to it, it is just a little black rectangular square.
The key later fell apart in my wife's purse, at which point it got lost again, forever this time, and the key is now a doorstop.
It's also molded into your plastic spare key. I don't know where. But there isn't any cavity in there for a circuit board.
Just as background, the way RFID works is that there is a tiny antenna hooked to an even tinier chip. There is no power source. A separate transmitter broadcasts a radio signal. That signal hits the antenna on the RFID chip, the chip harvests part of the RF as just DC power, that power boots up the little chip, that then proceeds to transmit a weaker signal back with the power it harvested. It can be simple (just broadcast a GUID (unique ID)), or it can be complicated (listen to a numeric sequence sent to it, apply some kind of cryptographic algorithim with a secret key to it, and then transmit back a resulting hash that can be validated to see if it is legit by whoever receives it). This is how your badge works to get in the front door at work, and it's why you never need to put batteries in it.
The immobilizer chip in the 2001-2004 MINI keys (the two button ones) is the ID44 chip (exactly the same in appearance to the ID46 chip above). This is true for both the remote and the non-remote key. For the 2005-2006 R50/53 models and the 2005-2008 R52's the remote key looks like the one above except in a MINI designed case. The non-remote key of this era has the ID44 chip.
"reepicheap" must have had a two button key if the ID44 chip fell out. A new remote key could be made by buying the cheaper non-remote key and transferring the ID44 chip over. As an aside, the battery in these keys is the CR2032 type, lithium but not rechargeable.
I just talked to a local locksmith who is versed in this key and he will make and program one for $179. The difference is this one will have the replaceable battery and not be affected by the auto charging of the stock key.
I may get one and then try the replacement rechargeable battery on the stock one.
I just talked to a local locksmith who is versed in this key and he will make and program one for $179. The difference is this one will have the replaceable battery and not be affected by the auto charging of the stock key.
I may get one and then try the replacement rechargeable battery on the stock one.
Would love to know how that works out- It's not as easy as cutting a blade and pushing the buttons on the key in a certain sequence. I'll be truly surprised if he can make a fully working key that will actually start the car, too. And I've never seen one of these keys that don't have the rechargeable battery.
Also, keep in mind that you can get a real key from MINI of Peabody for around $135.
Mini not listed as a Make they can accommodate.....
Kat
I probably stated this earlier on this thread but MINI keys aren't just something you can push a few buttons on and get a working key. The anti-theft chip is a difficult thing to reproduce (for a reason). This is why I recommend a specific MINI dealer (or any dealer) for new keys. If you are buying on eBay or the like you are just throwing your money away.
I learned alot with my Husqvarna TR650 and immobilizer keys. I spent way too much time trying to figure out how to get a spare key. The TR650 was built while BMW owned Husky, and they adopted BMW Technology to the bike. They used a Magnetti Morelli ECU and a Zadi key immobilizer system. A spare key pre programed for $80 from the dealer as no one could clone the key.
There are plenty of companies that can clone bmw keys, but just not the low production specific rfid chip used on this motorcycle. The machine that clones the key must be used in close proximity to the antenna ring that talks to the key. You need to have an original key so that the cloning machine can read the "handshake signal" to the original key. This is a different verification process than like your credit card readers. Once the info is read from the car you then program the new key to be an exact clone of the original, no car computer reprogramming. Once the new key is programed, a burst blows out a "fuse" in the circuitry of the new key so It cannot be modified from then on.
So, in most cases, the locksmith clones one of your keys, so no programming is needed for the car, it just works like the old key and the car does not know any different. However, you can reprogram the ecu key database to accept another key and to lock out the lost or stolen key. This can also be done using the diagnostic software ista/rhiengold from my understanding. I also have seen where they plug directly to the computer chip and reprogram that way.
So, getting a new fob that has replaceable battery and does not charge and explode it, would most certainly be nice and would be worth more than a factory piece of junk that is dead after a few years. Programming the fob part can be done easily by anyone from what I have seen, but programming the car and or rfid chip, (immobilizer chip) is a bit more involved and does cost shop time of about 2 hours.
I did not ask if he could do the new fancy proximity keys, this is for the basic model.
The other option is to buy a new key/fob with replaceable battery, buy a rechargeable battery, cut apart the stock key and install/solder new battery and install the guts and key to the new fob case. The battery won't be replaceable, so to speak, but the case.
Something else I learned, evidently BMW calls the keys "laser" cut. They are not, they are milled with a small milling machine. My brother bought one of these key machines. I talked to plenty of "stupid" key places and they repeat the lie. If you look in the key groove, you can see the milling marks. Laser is a whole other process.
It is as obvious as cutting with a hacksaw or torch.
Would love to know how that works out- It's not as easy as cutting a blade and pushing the buttons on the key in a certain sequence. I'll be truly surprised if he can make a fully working key that will actually start the car, too. And I've never seen one of these keys that don't have the rechargeable battery.
Also, keep in mind that you can get a real key from MINI of Peabody for around $135.
Val
Didn't work out. I went to get one done and he jacked the price to $225.
So I ordered up a pair of key blanks on amazon ($20 ea), had the groves cut in the blanks today ($20 ea) and now need to get the ak90 to program them, for another $35.
Below is a picture of the new key blank with remote and changeable battery.
Last edited by dedave; Feb 27, 2020 at 05:23 PM.
Reason: add picture
Keep us posted- and don't forget to use immobilizer slots 9 and 10 for your new keys- that way if any keys are ordered from the dealer in the future they will actually work. If you use the next available slot (like maybe 3 or 4) the dealer keys won't work because there will be an immobilizer conflict.
That is great advice. I talked to the local BMW garage, and they think they can program them, 2 for $60. I am in contact with a key cloning company and would much rather clone the key vs adding it. Not sure if these can be cloned.
When I had the keys cut, the locksmith plugged his gadget into the diagnosis port and could not program the EWS type keys. I would think that the BMW shop should be able to, especially if I can buy a $30 programmer and do it myself. And the youtube vids show it working just fine. A bit more work, as you have to remove the EWS module from under the dash and hook directly to the chip to program it.
This is the best video I found so far to get the general idea of how to do it. Cutting the keys, programming the chip and remote. This is only for the ews bmw type mini keys. I almost bought the cutting machine he uses in the video, still need to get the ak90. dudely key blanks from Amazon, or get the flip type key fob.
So i did some testing a wireless iphone charger will charge the key over night , I would recommend leaving the fob on the charger when not in use so it stays charged, I did figure out the rechargeable battery's don`t have the power need for aging fobs even new ones so installed a 2032 battery and i am done works great just have to modify one cover as the new batter is thicker the 2025 is thinner and may work better
