Anymore it just seems to be a matter of time before all the stock ones fail. We do have a new affordable OE style crank tool avail now, if you buy it I'm sure you guys could pass it around minimizing the cost for everyone. We would rent it but past experience has shown people just don't give any care to a tool they are renting and destroy them, ruining it for everyone.

 

I am pretty sure mine is going, but you're right. You don't know till you pull it.

I think I misdiagnosed "clutch chatter" for the vibration/chatter noise I am getting under the bonnet. I don't know if "imminent failure" is likely - meaning I don't think it's completely toast yet because the chatter from it comes and goes. But I fully expect to see issues when I pull it off. If I don't, I am going to either sell my ATI super damper here or return it where I bought it.

Sorry Way, I found a better price.

 

Trying to get the ATI pulley on and my crankshaft just spins and spins... I have a 6 speed getrag, and no matter what I do - 6th 5th 4th etc. and brakes make no difference in the world... I cannot get it to stop moving...

 

I used a big screwdriver and placed it in the grooves of the brake rotor to jammed it and stop it from spinning.

 

So, My Fellow MCS Fanatics,
My engine is up in the air, my new tensioner has arrived and after close inspection, we find play in the crank pulley. This is probably not suppose to be there? The balancer looks in tact. We had a belt issue. After replacing it, the thing would ride toward the motor, especially w/ the A/C on. Like an alignment issue or the dreaded tensioner problem.
So , probably not the tensioner, very likely the damper?
Does this sound familiar. We've been down a week and money we didn't have. Can someone describe the failure symptoms. Does this slide in and out normally? Do they come loose? Or is this another C note out the door?
Thanks,
Gary

06 MCS Checkmate

 

It shouldn't slide, if it has play in and out, is bad. Mine had some play and was constantly taking the belt, especially when the ac was on.

 

Thanks,
I guess the worst welder in the world is about to fab some new tools.
This thread will be very handy. Silver will just sit till we find some more money. Glad my Triumph still has tires. Bikes are fun, too.
Peace,
Gary

 

Well, my wife's car decided to eject half of its pulley today as she pulled into work at about 156k miles. Shredded all but two ribs of the belt in the process but it look as though there is no other damage. I guess that M7 2% crank pulley will get used! Going out to buy some M6 and M8 bolts, washers and pick up a loaner hub puller. Hopefully this goes smoothly...in the parking lot at her business.

 

For those interested I used 3 65mm long 6mm dia bolts for the puller and a single 90mm long 12mm dia bolt for the hub and the puller from Autozone's loaner program worked great.

 

I just installed the ATI super damper (thanks WAY for personally shipping it). I was getting a weird noise coming from the belt area whenever there is a load on the engine (between 3k and 5k rpm. Since my 03 MCS had the original crank pulley on it I decided to replace it.
Visually it doesn't look bad but the noise is gone so...

 

One tool that made a huge difference for me in this job was an electric impact wrench I picked up at harbor freight for $50.

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-elec...nch-68099.html

I was able to spin the crank bolt right in and out as well as use it on the puller center bolt. No problem with the engine spinning at any point.

 

Right, and I used a 3/8" socket wrench and extensions. No power tools needed. I just popped the starter real quick with the wrench on the hub to break the nut loose.

 

@ edgpr, how long did it take you to cut it out, and what did you use? i had 2 of those garbage m6 bolts snap inside the pulley. i managed to drill out all 3 holes a bit larger, and succesfully tapped 1 to a m8x1.25. im in the process of tapping the second hole, and i have none of the right tools with such a small area to work with. the amount of frustration surging within me right now, is probably similar to chuck norris becoming a more incredible version of the hulk. if cutting it out will be easier than tapping these other 2 holes, i may go that route. i am seriously blown away that taking a torch to the thing and hitting it with a hammer didnt even loosen it up a bit. 2 pry bars from behind... nothing. this 3-4 hour project has turned into a week long nightmare and im about ready to roundhouse kick my car into the sun. if anybody has any suggestions, im wide open.

 

Your best bet is to just tap those other holes. Cutting the pully off can easily damage the crank and then you with even more problems. Hell I had to turn into hulk just to get mine off (impact wrench did nothing and I had to put all my weight on a three foot breaker bar to get it off). Get the bolts in there with the puller on and alternate between heating the crank, spraying pb blast, and turning the center bolt.

 

thanks for the reply. i ended up just toughing it out and tapping the holes best i could, getting the bolts in best i could, lots of pb, and heating with a torch right before pulling so that, if anything were to fail, i couldnt blame myself for rushing or skipping steps. the puller broke halfway through, but the bolts didnt snap and i was able to finish with a pry bar. i was so relieved to get the damn thing off... i had to sit down and let it soak in that after 3 days of bs, i could finally move forward :D

 

~bump~

 

I started this last night and what should have been a hour project is now in day 2. I spent 2 hours trying to get the pulley off but it wouldn't budge. Any ideas? I was using the technique listed above with a high quality cordless impact wrench to turn the bolt on the puller.
I saw another thread where heat was used but I don't want to screw anything up. How much heat and exactly where should I position the torch? Any help would be great as I plan to resume my project after work tonight. Thanks

 

if you dont care about saving the stock pulley, you can apply the torch directly to it. thats what i did anyway. which puller are you using?

 

I'm just using a basic crow foot puller from harbor freight - just like you can find at autozone or sears. seems to be working fine and it putting pressure on the bolt the way its supposed to be. Its just that the pulley just wont budge.

 

alright. thats the same one i used. i had to return it twice for a new one because i had a ridiculous amount of trouble with my operation. it worked in the end though. if you can get a friend to help, sticking a pry bar behind the pulley will be a huge help while you are using the impact on the puller. pb blaster on the shaft will also help.

 

so I was able to borrow a legit puller from a friend of mine that owns a repair shop, and the pulley has been sprayed with some pb blaster a few times today. Anyone want to chime in on applying heat?

 

if youre throwing away the old pulley, torch it. i used a mini propane torch. just go in circles around the pulley heating it evenly and that should do it

 

Couple tips for anyone else that comes to this thread. As far as the M6 bolts breaking when using the puller tool make sure you get class 10.9 or higher M6 bolts, Homedepot or Lowes will likely not have these. A "hardware" store such as ACE or True Value usually have a much larger selection of metric fastners and will stock class 10.9, but may not have the length you need in class 10.9 for m6 which is what I ran into. However, if there is a Fastenal in your area they will have M6 class 10.9 bolts or will be able to order them for you. Class 10.9 is approximately equivalent to grade 8 SAE, and have much higher tensile strength than class 8.8(grade 5 equiv) that almost every store stocks.

I hit my old pulley with some pb blaster and hit the puller with the electric torque wrench and it came right off. I used a M12 x 120mm with 1.75 pitch as my center for the puller to press on, the 100mm I had wasn't long enough, (maybe if I backed out of the crank further it would have worked), but a 110 would probably work as well. Also make sure you're pulling on the m6 bolts straight, so you don't have a shearing force, just a pull, which the higher tensile strength of the class 10.9 helps with.

 

Like everyone before, I am getting ready to put on my ATI (thanks Way), though not in a big hurry because my s/c failed (PTO locked up) which split my harmonic balancer in two, so the s/c is off getting rebuilt. Hand tools only, the car on jack stands in my 100+ degree garage, yeah I'm exited. All these experiences has me dreading getting back under BB, I ain't no spring chicken anymore, ah well. Let you know the progress, I will be renting the tool to pull off the remaining half of the balancer, and with plenty of PB and patience (in short supply after a day working) hopefully no troubles!

 

can the OP re-do the pictures as they are gone. thank you