GP Alignment Specs
Here is a condensed version of what I received from MINI USA after I took delivery of my GP:
FRONT
Total toe: 0° 18' ± 5'
Camber: -35' ± 25'
Toe angle difference (difference between left/right max 30')
- with 20° lock on inside wheel: -1° 16' ± 30'
Maximum wheel lock
- Inside wheel: approx 36° 10'
- Outside wheel: approx 30° 36'
REAR
Total toe: 0° 24' ± 08'
Camber adjustable:
Camber (difference between left/right max 30'): -2° 06' ± 30'
Camber not adjustable:
Camber (difference between left/right max 30'): -1° 52' ± 30'
Geometrical axis deviation: 0° ± 10'
Having said that, for my GP, I am simply running -2.2 camber in front, -1.2 camber in rear, with 0 toe all around, at present.
FRONT
Total toe: 0° 18' ± 5'
Camber: -35' ± 25'
Toe angle difference (difference between left/right max 30')
- with 20° lock on inside wheel: -1° 16' ± 30'
Maximum wheel lock
- Inside wheel: approx 36° 10'
- Outside wheel: approx 30° 36'
REAR
Total toe: 0° 24' ± 08'
Camber adjustable:
Camber (difference between left/right max 30'): -2° 06' ± 30'
Camber not adjustable:
Camber (difference between left/right max 30'): -1° 52' ± 30'
Geometrical axis deviation: 0° ± 10'
Having said that, for my GP, I am simply running -2.2 camber in front, -1.2 camber in rear, with 0 toe all around, at present.
Here is a condensed version of what I received from MINI USA after I took delivery of my GP:
FRONT
Total toe: 0° 18' ± 5'
Camber: -35' ± 25'
Toe angle difference (difference between left/right max 30')
- with 20° lock on inside wheel: -1° 16' ± 30'
Maximum wheel lock
- Inside wheel: approx 36° 10'
- Outside wheel: approx 30° 36'
REAR
Total toe: 0° 24' ± 08'
Camber adjustable:
Camber (difference between left/right max 30'): -2° 06' ± 30'
Camber not adjustable:
Camber (difference between left/right max 30'): -1° 52' ± 30'
Geometrical axis deviation: 0° ± 10'
Having said that, for my GP, I am simply running -2.2 camber in front, -1.2 camber in rear, with 0 toe all around, at present.
FRONT
Total toe: 0° 18' ± 5'
Camber: -35' ± 25'
Toe angle difference (difference between left/right max 30')
- with 20° lock on inside wheel: -1° 16' ± 30'
Maximum wheel lock
- Inside wheel: approx 36° 10'
- Outside wheel: approx 30° 36'
REAR
Total toe: 0° 24' ± 08'
Camber adjustable:
Camber (difference between left/right max 30'): -2° 06' ± 30'
Camber not adjustable:
Camber (difference between left/right max 30'): -1° 52' ± 30'
Geometrical axis deviation: 0° ± 10'
Having said that, for my GP, I am simply running -2.2 camber in front, -1.2 camber in rear, with 0 toe all around, at present.
Thanks GoodFinder. That was exactly the info I was looking for.
I am lowering (H&R springs) and installing adjustable front camber plates (H-Sport) and then getting an alignment. I wanted to have the OEM baseline because I figured the alignment shop would not have the JCW/GP info in their database.
I am thinking about:
Front: -2.2 camber and 55' Toe Out (+1/8")
Rear: -1.5 camber and 0 Toe
(if I can get that much rear camber without aftermarket control arms).
I am lowering (H&R springs) and installing adjustable front camber plates (H-Sport) and then getting an alignment. I wanted to have the OEM baseline because I figured the alignment shop would not have the JCW/GP info in their database.
I am thinking about:
Front: -2.2 camber and 55' Toe Out (+1/8")
Rear: -1.5 camber and 0 Toe
(if I can get that much rear camber without aftermarket control arms).
Thanks GoodFinder. That was exactly the info I was looking for.
I am lowering (H&R springs) and installing adjustable front camber plates (H-Sport) and then getting an alignment. I wanted to have the OEM baseline because I figured the alignment shop would not have the JCW/GP info in their database.
I am thinking about:
Front: -2.2 camber and 55' Toe Out (+1/8")
Rear: -1.5 camber and 0 Toe
(if I can get that much rear camber without aftermarket control arms).
I am lowering (H&R springs) and installing adjustable front camber plates (H-Sport) and then getting an alignment. I wanted to have the OEM baseline because I figured the alignment shop would not have the JCW/GP info in their database.
I am thinking about:
Front: -2.2 camber and 55' Toe Out (+1/8")
Rear: -1.5 camber and 0 Toe
(if I can get that much rear camber without aftermarket control arms).
and no Adj. control arms
On my Gp The minimum rear camber I could get was -2 deg 20". Again that is with the MINI weighted to the factory tolerance on spring height. Most people here are giving out specifications without that being done. It will not change the front as much as the rear. Also think about how much fuel you have in your tank when you do an alignment, it will make a difference. If your really particular ask the alignment guy if you can sit in the car when the alignment is done. Some people weigh 150# some 250#. Think about it a while and weight, and where it's placed, will make a difference in your alignment specifications. Another good NAM member here told me that he sat in his car on his alignment, had the alignment done to his specs then got out of his car and watched as the specifications on the machine changed. Mostly in the rear because of the trailing arm suspension. My thoughts here are if you are trying to dial in an alignment that works for you pay attention to the small details when making changes. Steve
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