Okay,...I've had an Elise for the last two years, and my best friend just got an exige. I can honestly say that the Lotus ONLY beats the Mini in catagories involving "going around a track more quickly". And as it should, for it has sacrificed quite a bit to achieve that goal. But, that is all. Don't get me wrong, it is a great track car,....but if you follow that persuit based on that logic, you will end up with a shifter kart. The Elise (in my opinion) is the closest "mass-produced" vehicle I've ever sat in to a kit car. I love both, for very different reasons. NOW, could someone please answer my previous question about the 2% crank pulley? I've got a GP that I want to modify slightly. Just slightly. No offense to anyone that wants to keep theirs stock. Thank you.

 

I guess my coments about leaving it alone are based on all the growing pains I have had with my highly modified car ..... things like tires, wheels etc make a lot of sense... but for me, I am way too familiar with my code scanner to want to do much to a new GP engine.... that being said, I have a crank pulley and am looking for a stock 06 unit to put back on..... when you get your 2% I'll be happy to offer some $ for yours.....(the M62 is a big *** blower on a 1.6L engine and I have decided I want the dampening back)

Matt, I have 63K on my car and drive it everyday (almost) your point about keeping the stock parts in a box and ready to swap back is "sage"

does the GP have any head work done....are they the same valves and flow..... after a lot of experimenting the head/header on the Mini is pretty constipated and needs a lot of work..... take turbo out of this because it changes "evrything" but I am of the belief that if you want to make a dramatic change in your car head work and a better header are essential ... note..that is "dramatic" change.....

M7 and DHM (DMH?) are reporting very good results with their heads.....

I am curious, what part of the GP leaves you wanting more?

 

Actually, I am out of the country right now and haven't even driven my GP yet. It is in my garage as we speak, awaiting my return. I had an '03 JCW that I sold to make space though. There was nothing inherently wrong with the '03, and nothing that really left me wanting. Having said that, I am a tinkering sort of guy, and will experiment with things for the fun of it. Half of all mods will probably be removed with the OEM's put back on, but some will be kept. I love cars and am not a collector, I'm a user. As we speak there are a number of items either sitting in my garage already, or awaiting delivery. They are as follows: 16x7 BBS RG-F's with Yoko A048's (med./hard), H&R coilovers, Alta 22mm rear bar, Alta adj. control arms, M7 STB, 2% crank pulley, M7 DHIC w/ scoop. I am on the fence about the scoop as I want to retain the appearance of the orig. and am not sure how it will differ. Guess I'll find out when I open the box. I will dyno the car as stock, and then with the upgrades,...and report my findings. If anyone has any suggestions on any of these products I would love to hear them.

 

My understanding is that the GP head is a standard JCW head, which has only minor porting for slightly better flow, but uses stock valves. The additional 4% peak hp on the GP mill comes from the larger IC and ECU tweaks only, afaik.

 

Later dude, won't be missed.

I haven't heard anyone doing a crank reduction pulley yet - I am going to be curious what people start doing first.

My first mod was just completed - Tint.... 15% rear - 20% doors, it gives the GeePee a whole new look. Planning to add the intake later tonight hopefully.

 

I think if some people modify their GP its ok, the car looks and statistically is amazing stock. But think about the people that modify Ford GT and stuff. Its all what makes you happy with YOUR car. =]

I just hope someday I can get my hands on one too!

 

that started you on your quests!

Matt

 

After much thought ... I'm focusing not so much on performance enhancements but on shedding weight.

Tires and rims being one of the easiest. Set of Velox PG-Rev10 17x7 with the 52 offset (11lbs each) and a good 205/40R17 to go with it (Toyo TS1 about 22lbs). You're looking at 33lbs per corner vs. about 41lbs. That's 8lbs per corner or 32lbs overall of unsprung weight savings.

Then there's the simple battery mod to a Braille style light weight and the battery cage to go with it. Check Helix out for that and save another 20lbs up front.

Look for other exhaust options like Borla which are known for being lighter in weight.

On and on it goes...

Then watch your performance take off... I'd trim the fat first.

If that doesn't do it for you then I'd agree the head is where it's at. Port and polish + maybe airbox & intake manifold work then finally header.

 

point well taken

Tuls told me at MTTS in Nashville that he was pretty impressed with the car (GP)... he had driven it all over the country..... I guess that if I bought a "factory prepared car" I would leave it alone but I have to rethink that... it seems I am being a bit narrow....... OK.... I thought about it...

Hell...... pull out the stops

We (you know who we are) have concluded that the Mini head needs an enima or at least a new header..... if you have the budget, go for it.... the mods that like are my M62, head, DFIC, port matched header, wheels/tires brakes, sway barS, coilovers... hell, just look at my list..... to paraphrase Will Rogers "I have never met a MOD that I didn't like" : ..... but, some I like more than others

 

Does anyone know if the Braille setup from Helix puts the battery in the same place? Also, are there any voltage problems? Is it daily driveable? Thanks. -Sean

 

and I found it fine day to day. The only times I'd drain the sucker is if I had the car on, on jackstands, for most of a day. But for day to day driving, I never had a tough start, or problems with voltages, or bass issues with the stereo.

Also, the Dekka is the same battery for a bit less.

Matt

 

I have an 06 JCW. I'd say stick to bolt on performance mods that will enhance what you already have (OEM+ to quote Gabe Bridger) or that remove bottlenecks in your existing setup. To follow that advice I'd suggest:

1) Mod your JCW CAI - Remove the flap. Only four screws holding it in and if you don't like it, it's easily replaced. Everything stays functional, just no flap to open. BTW, that's how the race version of the CAI comes from John Cooper Motorsports (check it out on their website). I've also replaced the stock filter with an ITG foam replacement filter (Madness makes one also). If you're really feeling froggy, you can also pull the plug out of the bottom for even more breathing room.

2) Add a crank pulley - Either 2 or 3%. It's not additive, though. See this thread for more info - https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=73952

3) Fix the JCW exhaust & install a header - Remove the cabrio smash and the resonator. MAY make it slightly more free flowing and not very expensive. It will change the sound though.

4) Tighten up the handling - Rear sway, front camber plates, etc... Nothing new here.

5) Upgrade the bulbs as previously mentioned. I prefer the Osram H7 65w Hyper/Rally for high beam performance as recommended by the good Mr. Daniel Stern.

6) The JCW leather/alcantara steering wheel is an essential (IMHO).

7) Aux gauges. I have the Promini's, but there are lots of options.

8) M62 if you're really brave. It'll be a bolt on kit.

My two pennies.

 

Mini Fireman - Thanks for the helpful list and especially from the voice of experience since you started from the JCW platform and went from there.

 

My pleasure. I've had lots of great advice given to me and found lots of excellent info here on NAM.

 

Whether it is a GP, an MC or MCS...do the camber plates before you wreck your stock strut mounts and mushroom the towers. I just did mine. It didn't look that bad until I got the old strut mounts out...the passenger side was severely bent. One side was about 1 inch higher than the other. This is an important preventative mod. It will also help your handling a lot. Read some of the horror stories and decide whether you want to take a block of wood and a hammer to your baby.

 

Any advice on make of camber plates and who to do the install?

Another question: Is the JCW exhaust lighter than stock?

 

"Cabrio smash"? I removed my JCW resonator, but what is the "cabrio smash"?

 

I went with the RDR/Helix adjustable camber plates and I am very happy with the quality of their product. The local crew who installed them were very impressed (especially compared to many of the other brands they've seen and worked with on customer's cars).

 

Hey Mini Fireman - Whose products and approach did you take in removing the cabrio smash and the resonator? And, when you say the sound is different, can you describe it? How did the sound change at idle, cruising down the road, and passing cars?

 

I asked around like crazy on these forums...It depends on what you want to do. If you are only going to be street driving, get the Ireland fixed -1.25 camber plates. If racing...you will pay 3 to 5 times as much for adjustable ones, usually adjustable from -2 to +2, more if you lower the car. They all seem to be thick enough to help with the mushrooming. The Ireland ones are $180. If you have the tools, do it yourself. It isn't that hard...(hint...don't separate the ball joint...just unbolt it. The Haynes manuals are not always right). You just need a spring compressor, or some kind of makeshift method (you can borrow one from an autoparts store for free sometimes). Other than that, all you need are 1/2 ratchet with the right size sockets, some wrenches, and allen wrenches. The first one is always the hardest. It took me about 2 hours to do the drivers side (I couldn't get the ball joint separated). The passenger side only took me about 30 minutes.


Don't forget to get an alignment afterwards.

 

Ok, this is the ONLY thread in the archive in which the words "cabrio" and "smash" appear together. What are you guys talking about?

 

The exhaust is pinched near the rear axle to make room for a brace on the cabrio. The same exhaust goes on all the JCW cars. Any decent exhaust shop can cut it and the resonator out and weld in replacement pipe.

 

Sorry, my term. If you prefer, exhaust pinch.

 

It makes it a little louder with more pops & crackles when you let off. Some love it, others dislike it. Obviously, I'm in the former.

Search for JCW resonator or similar for more opinions & info. Several good threads.

BTW, if you take a crawl under your JCW's you'll easily find the resonator (it's in the first long section of pipe after the cat) and the pinch where it hops over the rear end.

The resonator is there solely to reduce noise/alter the tone.

 

BTW, you can get both the resonator removed and the pinch replaced for in the neighborhood of $100 (more or less). I've got my resonator saved just in case I get rid of the car or if I had disliked the sound. With some minor fab it can be put right back in. You can also have it and the exhaust flanged so you can bolt it back in instead.