Did a little research into the torsional rigidity of a MINI and according to one source an R53 is 24,500 Nm/degree. It stands to reason the R56 is even higher given the extra bracing found under hood forward of the strut towers as one example.

MINI R53 24,500 Nm/in

BMW E36 M3 10,900 Nm/in

BMW E90 3-Series 22,500

Chevrolet Corvette C7 (2014 – ) 14,500

Dodge Viper GTS-R 25,082

Ferrari 458 Spider 23,184

LamborghiniMurcielago 20,000

Like most owners my '08 MCS with 130K miles suffers from squeaks and rattles when driving over rough roads. Mostly from the rear sunroof and dash. A few years back I added a TSW X-brace which made a noticeable improvement especially in high speed, steady state corners. The way a MINI handles is proof they have very high chassis stiffness. But the rattle box interior would make you think otherwise.

Anyone have a reasonable explanation why this is?

source: http://youwheel.com/home/2016/06/20/...ehensive-list/

 

I am wondering if the fasteners used by Mini/BMW are generic in nature across the platforms and that what may work on a BMW does not on a mini. I saw a thread here somewhere on using a medical grade tape to separate the plastic components. Years ago, yes I am dating myself, car parts were held in place with screws. Now there are numerous plastic rivets and clips. Take the trim off between the back seat and the side of car and there are 2 to 3 different color plastic type rivets that look similar but the color must have something to do with strength or elasticity.

Need to hear from some Gen3 owners but even if they have less rattles, once the plastic starts to dry out they may start getting some.

 

My 2010 R55 still doesn't have any squeaks or rattles, unless it's very cold outside, then it squeaks a bit until the interior warms up.

 

Just came back from a rattle-fest reduction surgery at MINI. Loads of fabric tape, plastic rivets with foam washers, etc. Much improved but you can still go crazy listening for the next set of rattles.

I really need a pre-plastic age car for my sanity. Actually my VW Golf was pretty darn rattle free, so it can be done.

11 Countryman, rattles but my son doesn't seem to care, I did when I drove it.
14 F56 yeah it rattles off and on.
16 F55 rattles, but not all that much and wife doesn't complain.

 

You bring up a good point. I notice that a lot of hard plastics are joined together in certain areas in the interior. The top of the dash and doors have a high quality soft touch material, but that's about it. I do remember my 1978 E21 that I owned in the 90's having screws to hold certain interior parts together. I don't remember that interior squeaking much (though I could be wrong, it was a long time ago).

 

I have a 2012 Clubman, and the only rattles I have are from the roof switch plate. Seems like nothing I do can stop it from rattling.

 

I have a buzzing coming from somewhere within my dash that I only get in lower gears in the 2 - 3K RPM range. I would love to quell this noise, but am afraid of digging into the dash and creating other noises. I have a '10 Clubman S with 52K on it.

I've read about someone using surgical tape to buffer the plastic to plastic contacts within the dash. How much of a PITA is it taking apart the dash?

 

For what its worth, my roof switch panel rattle "Sounds" like its coming from the upper dash, but its really the roof panel.

 

Yeah, I remember when I first got the car and it was still under warranty, I took it to the dealer to trace down a rattle I thought was coming from the sun visors.

During the test drive with the tech driving, he heard a completely different sound that was coming from the dash panel behind the tach guage. I guess it really depends on your hearing ability and your seating position... and maybe how many rows back from the amp stacks you were at all those concerts

Anyone have a reliable troubleshooting methodology they can share for tracking this stuff down?