modern synthetic oil is actually pretty robust stuff...it should be able to handle upwards of 10K easily.

5K seems a tad short to me, but you arent hurnting anything by doing it frequently.

i have a 2013 S, and my car pings me at 9K to change the oil......personally i would probably do it at 7-7.5K......but i get my oil done under service at the dealer and im not loosing any sleep over 1.5-2K.....

i check my oil regularly and im not burning any oil, and even at 9K it still seems servicable

i still think a lot of people are stuck in the mindset that you need to change your oil every 3K and that anything over that is "wrong"....

 

I basically do what you're proposing: split the recommended interval in half, and perform an "extra" oil change.

My MINI was built 2/27/12, with a 15,000 mile oil change interval programmed in. On/about 3/1/2012, MINI moved to a 10,000 interval.

I'm doing mine at 7,500, synthetic oil either MINI or Mobil 1 0W-40 Euro. At 52k miles, it uses no oil between changes.

As you're seeing, there is LOTS of opinion on oil and oil changes .

 

Okay guy haha. You made the same assumption. Where's your data? And saying that your car is your data isn't showing anything to prove your evidence that it's okay to go longer than 5k miles. Maybe your case is different but don't assert your opinion by saying it's basically overkill. Every MINI is different like yours and mine, and others. Sorry if you felt hurt by my typing, I don't put emotion in it.

Also, search on NAM, lots of threads on it.

 

I have a '13 Justa Hardtop. It's push button start. I don't have a key as such but rather a battery operated fob that slides into a slot on the instrument panel. Two came with the car. The battery in the fob is recharged as it's being used and the engine is running. However, the second fob is setting in a drawer somewhere slowing loosing battery power. By switching fobs with each oil change I prevent the unused fob from going dead.

 

That is exactly what I do.

If you're really worried about how far your engine can go on one oil change, get a sample kit from Blackstone Labs or another reputable oil testing lab. They can analyze for wear material in your used oil, and let you know if you have gone too long or if you can go longer.

I feel that I may be changing my oil more frequently than needed (in a Justa), but I would rather do that than wait until damage has occurred.

 

Ahhhhh. OK now I know what that means. Thanks much my friend.

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My point exactly.

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Comfort access fobs have replaceable batteries. Non comfort access recharge when in the slot.

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OK, I read through the various posts after coming home from work and see options vary.

For what it's worth, I don't have a turbo version, just a base hardtop (2013 - not sure what R number it is).

Here's my dilemma. If I buy the oil, filter kit and drain plug gasket to DIY I save maybe $10.00 as opposed to taking him in. I took a picture of the outside temperature today (according to my MINI), please have a look. It actually made it to 100 degrees at some point.



Am I really being paranoid about this? I called the service department and was told the car "adjusts to the ambient temperature and driving style." He went on to say the MINI will warn me when the oil viscosity is getting low, regardless of milage. Hmmmmmm, seems far fetched.

I asked him what about rotating my tires, and he said they rotate them based on measurement, not oil change intervals. Guess if I don't see them for 10k my tires (run flat at that) will not wear evenly and eventually I'd have to replace them.

I don't know, just seems kinda long to me is all. Then again, I rather not spend $70 bucks unnecessarily but feel if it will protect my engine then it's money well spent. Yes?

I have a scheduled oil change appt for Saturday.


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The MA is full of BS....
IT WILL NOT tell you your oil viscosity is too low....the system is not that advanced. Period.
It is just a computer countdown.... Based on miles or fuel used and time....
Folks have even run out of oil....
Diy oil changes are for some...not for others...filter can be a pain...but IMO if you plan on keeping the car...do extra oil changes....always check it and add as needed...regardless of miles...
Modern syenthic oils ARE very good...I go 7500 no worries....they do better in high temps than older conventional oils....but wear materials can still buildup...do I have only gone Beyond 7500 if it is all highway in a short time....many do go further...but I would be left to wonder...is it OK...
A oil sample test is similar in cost to an oil change.... So I just change it...
One tip...some Mobil 1 oils are said to be good for 15,000 miles...so 10,000 is not THAT far fetched....
Do what you can sleep with.

 

^^^^ that^^^^ +1

 

You can do 5k oil change and maybe asking them friendly to rotate your tyres at the same time. Coz I got run flats all 4 corner and did no rotation for 12k miles, then the back ones are badly cupped and the front ones got badly outside shoulder wear (treadless outer shoulder and 5mm for the rest of it). btw, I've owned the car for 1.5 yr and did 20k in it, 20k when i bought it and i got a new engine recently, but i replace the oil every 7.5k and never let it drop below halfway mark, carfax shows the previous owner change oil following the car's recommendation.

 

Cheap insurance… I change mine every 4,500 miles!

 

Thanks everyone!

Zippy, I wonder how their MINI Brand oil they use stacks up against the Mobile 1 /Euro formula? Hmmmm

Good advice all ... Thanks again. Think I'll let them do this change Saturday, then look into all ventures.

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Any oil would do as long as its BMW LL-01 approved. But you got not much to choose from. I think I've never seen any oil in walmart suits the mini, usually LL-01 is 5W-30, but the mobil is 0W-40. Use mini/bimmer oil would be the safest bet. And there arent that much price difference between the mini/bimmer oil vs off the shelf synthetic. If you go to the dealer, they will use the mini oil.

 

Thanks for the info. If I decide to have a friend of ours change the oil (he's a 30 year certified/retired mechanic) whom we use to work on our other cars. He's VERY honest, no markup on parts, and labor at 1/2 the going rate. His wife works as a receptionist in our office. Anyway, he charges $10.00 for the oil change if you buy the oil and filter. I swear this man must have close to 70/80,000 in tools.

In closing, when/how do I check the oil level. Early morning when the car is cold and all the oil drops to the pan, or turn on run 30 seconds or so to circulate then check? I have to say I'm not use to the beveled tip on that oil stick. I'm use to seeing a flat dip-stick with LOW-FULL markings on it. Besides, with almost clear synthetic oil, it's almost hard to read. Any tips?

Some places say check it cold, others warm on a flat service.

http://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/20...heck_oil_level


Then there's this product? Anyone have feelings on this: http://www.cravenspeed.com/mini-dipstick/

:(

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I think you can get the oil change kit (filter, copper washer for the drain plug and o ring) from the dealers cheaper than ecs, unless you are going to get loads of that kit and some extra bits from them, coz their shipping is so expensive. I usually ending up buying lots of stuff from them at once. Other than thier expensive shipping, they are very nice. I use the OEM dipstick only as I am a student only (poor). Never thought of getting the cravenspeed ones, very pricey. You can read the dipstick by looking at below the upper bulb's the rough surface of the dipstick. If oil is max, all plastic bit will hv a mirror finish. If its less than full the upper bulb will be wet, then there will be part of the dipstick looks rough (dry) and the remaining lower bit will looks like mirror (wet). Look for the lowest wet point. Thats your oil level. (remember to WIPE the dipstick first :D) Max to min is abt 1 quart. Adding oil is a bit tricky with oem stick, just add it little by little. People said about the cravenspeed stick got 0.1 quart markings is easier to read and add tho. I check it cold, usually.

 

Yeah, I resisted for six months but I finally broke down and ordered the Craven Speed dipstick just a little over a week ago. I've had it for a few days and I'm glad I finally did it. Your base hardtop is a R 56.

 

I personally would have done the 1st change at 1000 with new oil filter being a new car, then another at 4000 again with new filter and then every 5000 with new filter (with exception of Mini scheduled service changes). Prob a habit from the old days of pre synthetic oil but I think oil and filter is a lot cheaper than marketing hype and wear and tear on an engine.

 

I've seen people test their oil (Blackstone Lab, etc), they were told 5k is too early and 10k is too late. So you decide. I've had lots of positive experiences with Mobil 1, I will use it for life.

 

or exceeds LL-01 standards...

 

you should always check the oil when the motor is cool and on a flat surface. you need to give the oil time to drip back down into the pan to get an accurate reading

if you check the oil while the motor is hot, there will stil be oil distributed throughout the motor, and when you go to take a reading, the oil level will read low....which may cause you to accidentally overfill your oil.


as for reading the dipstick, i find it helps to roll it on a paper towel and that helps to mark where the oil level is.

 

Do what makes you happy.
Nik

 

You can check it when it is hot as well. Just give it about 5 min for the oil to settled.

I think that was what you were trying to say, but I was a little confused.

 

WOW!, thats impressive......i know modern oil is robust, but 23K on the same oil with a green-light from Blackstone......never would have guessed.


how are your driving habits?