Skeeter has the clearbra on the bonnet about two inches above the scoop and the scoop is also covered. Has been on since the 16th and no problems from the heat as of yet. Daily temps for his commute has been in the 90 - 100 degrees.

 

So did you go with 3M or something else??

 

3M have used it on the last four cars or so and have never had a problem with it.

 

I've been thinking about how the clear coat came off during clear bra removal on e46jb's auto. e46jb said it happened because the glue on the clear material is very strong. I'm not challenging that it happened, but I very interested in why it happened. The glue on this clear material really is not strong. The problem had to have been caused by something else.

Guess #1: the clear coat was not prepared prepared properly or was inferior. Ex. Mixed for a warmer day, but sprayed on a rainy cooler day

Guess #2: when applied, way too much heat was applied and it actually effected the clear coat

Guess #3: when removed, it was over heated and effected the clear coat

Guess #4: when removed, it was scrapped

Guess #5: when removed, it was stretched and lifted close to parallel to the surface it was removed from

Guess #6: when in use, auto spent lots of time in hot sun that effected clear coat

Guess #7: when in use, auto spent lots of time in hot sun and under sap weeping pine tree

Does anyone else have arm chair hypotheses?

 

Anyone have any pics of a clearbra on a black MINI? The reason I ask is that I saw a clearbra on a black BMW 5 series, and I noticed it from about 9 feet away. It was very distracting as the edge line was clearly visible against the black paint. Almost as if someone took a ruler and a knife to the clearcoat. I would of assumed it was just a cheap product install until the owner confirmed it was 3M.

 

You have convinced me that this is not worth the effort or money. I will just put my husband on stand-by. He paints cars for a living.

 

I went to 2 places near my house to look at clear-bra. Both places used 3M and were "up-scale" auto places. I could clearly see where the clear bra is on all the samples they showed me, especially the end line. Maybe I'm just too picky or expected more given all the testimonials about how you can't see it. Anyway, although I am sure it works great, and I am glad so many of you who have it love it, for the price, I think I'll pass.

 

Nobody said you can't see the line. We said you can't see it unless you're really close.

And it's going to be more visible on darker cars than lighter ones.

Yeah, maybe you're too picky. I'm about as picky as they come and I prefer the hard-to-see line over paint chips. That's one of the reasons the world is interesting, we're not all alike.

 

I got two questions for you, or anyone else with clear-bra: Is it more or less visble after waxing or, especially, Hydro-ing? Does it hold water (e.g. rain) differently? I think I mentioned before that the clear rear bumber scratch protector on my car spots more noticeably than the rest of the car.

 

I have pics of my wife's Jet Black R53 with a Venture Shield in my gallery.

 

I would say it is less visible after waxing provided you are carefull that you don't accumulate wax along the edges. Or if you do, that you clean it off from the edges with a detailing brush.

 

What part(s) of it are covered?

 

Right. And it beads water exactly the same as the uncovered paint.

 

Upper/Lower Grill/Head Lights/Fog Lights/Mirrors/Bonnet/Doors.

 

What upscale places? The premier place is Proform around you. He's the guy who does most of the BMW and Porsche dealerships. However, you are correct. I hate it too. You can "always" see the line.

You should wax it. It does bead exactly the same.

 

I pretty much treat my clear bra the same as I do my paint. It always benefits from a gentle round of Swirl, and always has a coat of Epic/Hydro.

And I do agree that it can be seen up close. But from 3 feet away or further, you can't see mine or the edge of it.

 

From my view one has three choices basically:

1) do nothing and live with the chips/gamble on the repair cost
2) the triditional leather type bra
3) Clear bar (choose your brand)

Of all the vehicles I have had the clear paint protection on, 90% of the time no one ever picks up on it, and of the ones that do, half of them have had or or know of it.

 

I've used those and they are a PITA. If it rains or gets wet you have to take it off the car. If any grit/sand gets between under the bra, it will abrade the paint. It is UV opaque, so potentially your paint could fade to different shades. You can't keep it on your car if you take it on the track where arguably you would need front end protection the most. The only good thing is that they can take a lot of abuse.

 

Here's a VentureShield Clear Bra install I did on a members car. Hood, Front Bumper and Rocker Panels.

 

Please don't take this wrong, but if your pictures wee posted to show the VentureShield they need to be up close pics and differant angles. One of the big issues for the discusion here is the lines(unless it is full cover and all edges wrapped) of the material showing.
All of the clear film I have used and seen will not show under your lighting conditions, angles, and the distance the pics were taken. Close ups would give a better idea as to the quality of the material and the installation.

 

When you folks who had the clear bra installed, did you have the film placed over the headlights as well? I am buying a do it your self kit, and am wondering what to buy.

 

Yes, I had my headlights and fog lights covered, front of bonnet, bumper, mirrors, a piece on the top of the bumper by the boot and on the doors.

 

Yes, I had the lights done.

 

+1

 

My installer covered the lights with the same 3M 8-mil-thick film that he did the rest of the front with. He said that 3M makes a thicker film that's almost more of a "pad" than a film for the headlamps (30 mil, I think?), but that he'd had problems in the past with it yellowing and cracking, and he hasn't had any reports of broken/chipped lights, even with the thinner 8 mil film.