That is about the silliest thing I have ever heard. You need to report that to Mini corporate.

My last 2002 S had 220k on it when I traded it in and still didn't go down a quart between oil changes at 5k. Hell, I have a 1964 Austin Healey that doesn't lose a quart in 3k.

There is something wrong with your engine that is a fact, they they are being deceptive.

Who is the dealer?

 

My 09MCS consumed more than a gallon of oil the last 6000miles! The Mini-dealer is now changing the engine free of charge..finally!
The rental is a VW Polo diesel:(
Can't wait to get my Mini back! Do I have to be careful not to push the new engine too hard for a period??

 

Has this oil consumption problem been reported on the non-S models too or is it just on the S?

I can't recall ever having a car that consumed as much oil as some of you guys are reporting. Even the rustbuckets I've had like an old VW rabbit, datsun B210, chevette, and a few others didn't really consume much oil.

My last car had a "high performance turbocharged engine" and in the almost 70K miles I put on it, not once did I have to add even a single drop of oil.

 

This makes me want to check my oil now in mine. I only have 170mi on it now but dont want to risk anything and pay MORE in the long run

 

Hello y'all!

Just picked up an '07 MCS with 35k miles, last week. Very happy with my purchase!

The car has fresh oil and I can't seem to see the level when I check it as specified in the manual (warm up - shut car off - wait 5 mins).

I am able to see the oil level when the car has been sitting for a while, however.

I have been searching and have read that some folks have had decent results using a paper towel to set the dip stick on. But, would someone be so kind as to tell me what the oil level should be when the car has sat over night? Does the oil level go above the upper mark when it all settles?

My MCS has the coil spring looking dipstick.

Thanks for your time!

 

The oil should be at the top mark when the engine is cold.

 

You should follow the oil checking procedure one of the clueless SAs does at a dealership I will never go to for service again. Check your oil 20 seconds after you turn off the car . "Yep, the oil level says full" I am glad I know how to properly check my oil

 

I had similar symptoms as generaltrp and itr-mugen. First 30k, minimal oil loss. At 41k, discovered Big Blue was LOW on oil. Added Mobil 1, allowed the dealer to change the oil (Castrol), then I monitored the level, which showed a steady 1 qt/1900 mile usage. Took it back to the dealer at 49k. Dealer stated they could find no evidence of oil loss in the intake or exhaust. Drove Big Blue to 51k, received an engine light and stalling, then the dealer replaced the computer (which I appreciated, because I was 1k over the warranty) -- the Engine Light alarm could not be cleared with the existing computer in-place. They also replaced my Mobil 1 with Castrol. No improvement after 7k miles. I am going to switch to an oil (Amsoil 5W30?) with a lower volatility and see how that works.

 

1 qrt in 750 miles? Change dealers. I've never heard bs like that

 

Thanks for your response!

 

Well I'm not sure if it has anything to do with my original post, but I lost compression on cylinder 2 on a recent trip across country. Only made it 700 miles... ended up getting a new motor.

CHECK YOUR OIL FREQUENTLY!

If driving long distances, check it every fill up. I lost a quart between Los Angeles and Albuquerque! Hope the new motor performs better.

 

Same thing at 30k with my 2007 MCS. Consumption went from 1/4 qt to 1 qt to 2 qt/3k miles. I never exceeded the oil/filter change interval. Dealer could find no evidence of leakage or burned oil in the exhaust. Where did the oil go? The dealer changed the oil from M1 5W30 to the MINI endorsed Castrol 5W30; a brief improvement followed, but then decreased back to 1 qt/1800 miles. I know of no reason why Castrol synthetic would be better than M1. I was using 5 qts every 9k miles; recommended oil change was 16k miles per the MINI OBD. After 20k miles with Castrol, I switched to M1 0W40 at 52k. After first 10k miles, oil usage remained at 1 qt/2800 miles. Changed the oil again and now at 64k. So far, so good.

 

I'm pretty sure the owners manual recommends checking the oil when the engine is at normal operating temperature.

 

I have 6 cars and I have no problem checking or even changing the oil in any of them except for the Mini. I wanted to get to the bottom of the oil and engine damage surprise and this is what I found.

First I needed a baseline measurement. I am sharing the oil checking results as tested on a 2012 Mini Copper S from dealer stock (not my car). This is a new car with nearly no miles on it. We (the Dealer SA, Dealer Salesman and myself) tested the oil level cold and warm. Each test documents the first three checks (check level, clean stick and recheck....) The 4th and 5th checks were not usable because oil had attached itself to the inside of the dipstick tube that is routed through the timing chain guide.

Cold oil check method:
1) Remove the dipstick and clean it. Do not put the dipstick back in the tube.
2) Let the car sit so the oil can drain out of the tube. (we waited 20 min on this test at the dealership) It is best to wait 2 hours or more.
3) Insert the dipstick into the tube and remove after 10 sec.
4) Inspect the oil on the stick. (check 1)
5) Clean it and insert the dipstick into the tube and remove after 10 sec.
6) Inspect the oil on the stick. (check 2)
7) Clean it and insert the dipstick into the tube and remove after 10 sec.
8) Inspect the oil on the stick. (check 3)

Orange = saturated oil on the stick, Red or orange dots = light oil with stick texture showing, Solid red = no oil.



Orange = saturated oil on the stick, Red or orange dots = light oil with stick texture showing, Solid red = no oil.

Warm oil check method:
1) Run car up to normal temperature. (note the lack of any temp gauge for oil or coolant)
2) Shut of the motor and open the hood.
3) Wait 5 min.
4) Pull out the dipstick, and then wipe the oil off the dopstick.
5) Put the stick back in without rotating the stick.
6) Wait 10 sec.
7) Then pull the stick out (check 1). look at the tip that is full of oil including the top ball (with the original oil set from the factory).
8) Clean it and insert the dipstick into the tube and remove after 10 sec.
9) Inspect the oil on the stick. (check 2) Look at the false negative and at the same time a false overfill reading.
10) Clean it and insert the dipstick into the tube and remove after 10 sec.
11) Inspect the oil on the stick. (check 3) Look at the false overfill reading.

Notice that in each set of tests the reading is slightly different. In some cases the reading shows a false over fill condition. The only repeatable way to check the oil (if the dipstick is used to check) is to check the oil cold as outlined in the cold method (or clean the tube with the stick by inserting it part way, removing it, clean, repeat as needed and wait for the oil to run down into the pan). Unfortunately only the first check will provide usable results. Any attempts after the first check are tainted from oil transfer from the tube.

Mini does not recommend the cold check method and stated the stick is not calibrated for cold checking.



The Mini manual I got with my 2012 shows the older dipstick design. This is not helpful for many people because it does not visually represent the real 2011 and 2012 oil checking experience. The 2012 dipstick has a textured measurement zone that is very difficult to see oil on because the plastic is red and the shape is a cylinder. A flat surface is much better for seeing oil adhesion with surface tension. The dipstick tip shape and color make it difficult see the (clean) oil but the shape of the tip adds another layer of confusion because the reading can be taken from 360 degrees. In my tests I have found that the oil level reads differently from different tangent points (0, 90, 180 degrees). The worst part is that no Mini documentation tells you how to interpret the amount of oil thickness that should be visible in this measurement zone. It is possible to use a shop towel and transfer the "misted" portions of oil from the measurement zone and think that it is telling you the level. Because the oil transfers to the tube and then to the stick and then back to the tube it is very typical to see an over fill reading (or a build up of oil on the upper portion of the stick). The upper ball and most of the stick above the upper ball will have oil on it if you use the approved Mini method for checking your oil. If you ever have to top off your oil you will never know when the oil level is set correctly. Keep in mind that the closer the oil level gets to the upper ball the more you have to wait between adding oil. Every time you check the level the reading is compromised and prone to provide misinformation. When the oil is low it is very easy to think that the level is OK because oil is covering many portions of the upper part of the dipstick tip. It appears that even if the oil level is 2 quarts low you can see oil at both ends of the dipstick if you check several times (I would like to see someone conduct a test to confirm this for me).



I called BMW / Mini in Ohio to attempt to get better clarity on checking the oil level on a 2012 Mini Cooper S. I told the customer relations person I was confused with the entire oil level reading and dipstick experience (Contradictions and overfill readings are common when the real level is low). They informed me that they have no technical personal on staff that are available to provide any help. They recommended that I tow the car to a dealership and have the dealer's service department look at the oil level for me. I told them that I worked with my Mini dealer and they could not read the oil level on the stick any better than I could. At the rate of possible oil consumption I would be towing my new Mini to the dealership every week. I can understand that it is risky to give advise to the general public over the phone. Everyone at Mini and the Dealer has been very friendly and has extended a willingness to help me but not able to really provide any real clear direction. I have not found anyone who can use the factory dipstick better than I can.

I hope some of this post will help you in some way.

 

holy dip stick OceanM

 

Maybe it's a British thing. My Jag has the same problem -- the curved tube leaves oil all over the dipstick so you can't do a quick check. You absolutely must let the oil settle back into the pan as much as possible and insert a clean dipstick -- and then you only get one chance because you'll be coating the tube again. Cold and clean is the only way to get a consistent reading.

 

Thank you for your work on the Dipstick!!

 

Your welcome.

 

I had an oil change last month(covered by service) and the way I checked it was cold. I removed the dipstick, wiped clean and placed it in the car. I came back like 4 hrs later and put the dipstick in and saw the whole orange plastic indicator wet til like an inch past the plastic up the stick. I think its pretty full, remember it was MINI service that filled it last.

 

Any time someone works on our cars we inspect the work and have them give us the warn parts. One time, with another brand of car, the dealer overfilled the oil. We told the dealer to drain out the extra oil, change the crush washer and set it properly. The dealer told us, "It is OK,,,." We then (within 5 min of us checking oil on the dealer's lot) called the car manufacture and handed the phone to the dealer. The manufacturer told the dealer that it is very possible to cause engine damage due to over filling the motor with oil. The manufacturer instructed the dealer to drain out the extra oil, change the crush washer and set it properly. Then the dealer did it correctly as instructed by the customer and the brand's north american service manager.

When I spoke to my local MINI dealer's SA I asked him what the oil capacity is in a Mini Cooper S motor. He told me he thought it was between 4.6 and 4.9 quarts. I asked him to do better than guess. He called one the techs and asked. He said it was between 4.7 and 4.9. Hmmm I know the exact oil capacity of all my other cars. I think the MINI S is 4,5 ?????

I looked at all the printed materials that I had on my Mini and I could not find anything that had the oil capacity. We looked at the MINI site and searched through all the documents. I am not sure if your dealer knows exactly how much oil goes in the Mini motor but I bet he can't check the level without it taking about an hour.

 

Hi. Just curious, what happened to changing to AMSOIL 5W30? I run this oil in my R53 and have no oil consumption issues. I'd recommend the AMSOIL to anyone considering switching.

 

late model BMW's have no dipsticks

 

As with Audi. Only way to check the oil through the on-screen Car menu built in the radio display. I have a friend with a 2010 A4 and probably 3 out of 4 times she checks the level, the system says "No information available". It seems as cars get more complex, the true oil level is becoming more elusive, either by manual check or automated.

As far as capacity goes, every reference I've seen (Bentley, BMW) says the N12, N14 engines have a capacity of 4.2L or 4.4 USQ. I don't know, though, if that is refill capacity or total capacity for a dry/new engine.

 

I think that some people tend to over fill..... I think 5 USQ is too much.

 

I would tend to agree with you... although.. it will depend on how the oil is drained.

not sure if this has already been covered but, to get the most thorough drain it's best to drain the oil hot (at least 140F). first, drain the oil. second, change the oil filter (this will allow a small amount of used engine oil from the oil filter housing/lines to drain into the crankcase). third, drain the oil again. doing this will ensure the maximum amount of oil has been drained. fyi... it's a 1/2" drain plug.. not a 13mm...

oh, and I usually fill roughly 5 quarts per oil change. Maybe 4.8-4.9 qts.

and mine is an R53... not sure how R56 is set up.