F60 2019 Countryman SE ALL4 Oil change
2019 Countryman SE ALL4 Oil change
Decided I was going to change my oil today on my 2019 Countryman ALL4 SE. Used to DIY everything but can't find a brief guide to location of the Oil filter. I saw the link in one of the threads but it appears it was removed by request form BMW.
Any ideas on where I can look/
Any ideas on where I can look/
Its pretty simple. I do mine every time... How-to video below.
Confirm the oil quantity... I put in 5qt. for a F60SE 3 cyl. The linked video is a 4 cyl, more oil. Take care not to cross-thread the plastic oil filter housing when putting it back on. Note you'll really need to shove the housing with new filter up on the mount point as the oil filter has a fiber washer that is stretched over the center post on the engine inside the oil filter housing. Once you've stretched the washer and it slides up the post you'll be able to thread up the housing. I usually do this without lifting the car - enough space to get under there without it I also have a couple of large'ish spring binder clips that I use to hold the 2 doors/flaps open and back out of the way so that I don't spill oil on them when removing the drain plug and they're out of the way when putting up the new filter. When removing the filter housing, I usually just take the whole housing and filter off without draining through the T-55 plug, then remove the housing without tipping it over when pulling it down through the flap. Once its out I'll drain it into the oil catch pan and remove the filter, then remove the T-55 plug. Quality oil filter kits will have a new T-55 drain plug along with the crush washer for the oil pan drain bolt and a new rubber O-ring for the filter housing. I use Liqui-Moly Top-Tec Synthetic 0-20 available from Amazon. ECS also sells a nice kit with Liqui-Moly Oil and Filter at a bundle price. I use Liqui-Moly Cera Tec oil modifier with slightly less than 5qt oil. Now at 115k miles.
Confirm the oil quantity... I put in 5qt. for a F60SE 3 cyl. The linked video is a 4 cyl, more oil. Take care not to cross-thread the plastic oil filter housing when putting it back on. Note you'll really need to shove the housing with new filter up on the mount point as the oil filter has a fiber washer that is stretched over the center post on the engine inside the oil filter housing. Once you've stretched the washer and it slides up the post you'll be able to thread up the housing. I usually do this without lifting the car - enough space to get under there without it I also have a couple of large'ish spring binder clips that I use to hold the 2 doors/flaps open and back out of the way so that I don't spill oil on them when removing the drain plug and they're out of the way when putting up the new filter. When removing the filter housing, I usually just take the whole housing and filter off without draining through the T-55 plug, then remove the housing without tipping it over when pulling it down through the flap. Once its out I'll drain it into the oil catch pan and remove the filter, then remove the T-55 plug. Quality oil filter kits will have a new T-55 drain plug along with the crush washer for the oil pan drain bolt and a new rubber O-ring for the filter housing. I use Liqui-Moly Top-Tec Synthetic 0-20 available from Amazon. ECS also sells a nice kit with Liqui-Moly Oil and Filter at a bundle price. I use Liqui-Moly Cera Tec oil modifier with slightly less than 5qt oil. Now at 115k miles.
Last edited by ApexF60SE; Mar 16, 2024 at 02:07 PM.
I agree. Easier than I expected. I already had a 32mm socket (deep but it would have been a little easier with a shallow socket.). I couldn't find my T55 Torx to remove the plug at the end of the oil filter cannister but was able to get it off anyway.
I also use a socket wobble joint with extension bc the angle isn't exactly straight and I would hate to round-off the plastic fitting of the housing.
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