After purchasing MINI's rear bike rack carrier, I learned that not all F56's come with the proper bumper to support the bike rack. My model in particular from 06/2014 doesn't have two threaded holes in the rear bumper, only one threaded hole on the right side. On RealOEM, I've found that my bumper carrier is part #51127302552 and I was able to find the replacement bumper carrier that has two threaded holes instead of one as part #51127349623.

Does anyone know if bumper #51127302552 can be replaced with bumper #51127349623? The shapes look slightly different and there's a tab that sticks up on #51127349623 that I don't think my bumper carrier has. If anyone has done this swap or has any more information, I'd really appreciate it.

 

I should have ordered this carrier months ago. The price has gone up a bit, from $170 last April to $208

 

First, for this retrofit you'll need to have the two circular tow hook outlets in the bumper cover (one on each side of the bumper). If you have a JCW or JCW body kit, I don't think the bumper cover has two holes, so this retrofit is not an option. Second, this retrofit worked for me, on my specific model, but I can't guarantee it will work for you. Attempt at your own risk.

I successfully retrofitted the factory bumper bar that is needed to hold the MINI bike rack to my 2016 Cooper non-S convertible, using part #51127349623. I have little experience working on my MINI and was able to complete the job with simple tools. Once the bumper cover is off, swapping the bumper bars is a bolt-off, bolt-on process. It took about two hours, but one of those was spent wrestling the tail lights out of their sockets (access to the clips on the convertible requires some difficult body contortions). The new bumper bar was heavier than the original, and I was worried about the tabs on either end. These did not affect the install, as the new bar is a bit smaller than the original. Of note, on my base F57 there is a "secret" bolt for the bumper cover just behind the bumper on the middle-right. If you have the factory spare tire kit as I do, you'll need to lower the tire to get access.

The only challenge with this retrofit is that you are not able to add the factory wring for the electrics of the bike rack package. The factory kit is wired to deactivate the rear parking sensors when the car is put in reverse. Without this wiring, when the bike rack is installed, the parking sensors are blocked and go off at full warning when reversing. The warning does not stop until the car is in put in drive and moves forward. This only happens when the bike rack is on the car. My workaround is to park in ways that minimize the need to go in reverse when using the bike rack. Also, without this wiring the lights on the bike rack don't work. There appears to be a universal tow bar wiring kit from a company in England that may solve the problem, but the install is out of my comfort zone.https://www.ecs-electronicsuk.co.uk/

If you can tolerate sensor warnings, or if you don't have parking sensors, this retrofit is relatively easy and works great. The rack has a release to slide away from the car to allow access to the hatch/boot.

Here are some options for mounting a bike rack to the bumper. All of these require the same time and effort to remove the bumper cover, so it really comes down to price and your willingness to modify existing parts. Also, all of these solutions will still set off your parking sensors when a bike rack is attached.

1) Install the factory bumper bar, and purchase the factory bike rack. Holds two bikes. Bumper bar ($250): 51127349623, Rack ($450): 82722285994

2) VIPcustomparts.com: They make an adapter kit that adds the left bolt hole to your existing bumper bar, so you can insert their custom bike rack holder bars. Then you bolt on a 3rd-party single bike rack. It requires drilling into the original bumper bar. The kit is $250, but then you need the 3rd-party rack ($250-$350).

3) TorqueLiftCentral.com or eTrailer.com: These companies (and others) have tow hitches that allows racks from several manufacturers to be attached. Depending on the vendor/vehicle model, you may need to cut into the bumper cover. Parts are about $300, then you need a 3rd-party rack ($250-$350).

Because I have a convertible, my only option was to add a bumper-mounted rack. If you have a hardtop without roof rails, you'll save time, effort and money by using a roof mounted system. I saw a lot of positive reviews for SeaSucker products, as there's no clamps used. There are also a variety of racks that clamp or strap on to the rear boot door.

Some pics of my install and videos of bumper removal/hitch install below.


The original bumper bar at the top, The bike rack bumper bar is black, smaller and heavier, and has a slightly different curve.


Once you get the bumper cover off, the only other part you take off is the bumper bar. Four bolts. The swap takes five minutes. Also, remember to remove the parts tag BEFORE you reinstall the bumper cover. I was able to pull it off from underneath.


No clips broken, and no bolts lost! After this photo, I removed the lights and electrical plug since I don't have the wiring to power them. The electrics are clipped to the rack and come off as a single unit. No wire cutting. Easy to reinstall. The lights meet Euro mandates, but are not required in the US (at least in Arizona).






Videos (the third video link works, it just has to be watched on YouTube):

 

I opted not to go with the Sea Sucker. I don't think a 47# Turbo Levo is a good idea with that system. I also worry about the suction cups creating waves in the roof panel as the bike gets buffeted by side wind.

I have too much money tied up in my MINI and bike to risk it. The carrier mount seems like the safer option

 

I'm happy to Zoom or FaceTime with you when you do the install. It looks daunting but is actually fairly easy. Here's a pick of the tools I used. Two things that will really help are a deep 18mm socket to remove the bolts that hold the bumper bar in place ($20), and a set of trim removal tools ($19). I picked up both art Auto Zone.

 

I think i'm going to go with the genuine MINI rack since the VIP rods are out of stock till 1/10/22. I do like the VIP rod option because it gives me the option to use a Yakima or Thule rack on another vehicle.

 

I installed the VIPCustom rods a few months ago. Disassembling the rear end to expose the bumper is kind of a pain the rear. Pretty straight forward after that. It is a solid and relatively light weight addition. When the rack and rods are removed, the added receiver probably weighs just 1 lb. Pretty significant weight savings over receiver hitch options and racks. Of course the trade off is that you can only carry a single bike, but small car...