Tune is new and all software on the car is current

 

Ok, got my cable and changed the settings to +5 boost and fuel open loop to 50. What exactly is that doing to the engine? Fuel open loop was at 60 before I changed it. Also, how do you know what the limit is for your octane? I run 93.

 

Here is a link to the BMS site for more information on the burger stage 1

http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29995

 

Useful site, but it doesn't answer my question of what increasing the boost and changing the fuel open loop number actually does. Also, I saw something on that forum that said we need to use Map 3 for it to read the boost numbers we put in. Is that correct? I could swear I feel a difference without changing the map, but it could just be placebo...

 

No need to switch maps just change the settings and save the fuel open loop allows us to run e85 mixes with the FF connection by adding more fuel without the FF connector running above 3.5 PSI in boost fail safe the car has no way to add extra fuel . To directly answer why the setting is 50 you would have to ask the manufacturer of the BMS stage 1 tuner I just basically followed the n54tech thread I can tell you running an e85 mix is a world of difference over 93

 

After the FF adapter is installed and you change the loop to 50 and adjust boost you just click save and thats it or do you have to do something else in the software?

 

Just save and enjoy

 

i am running +5psi without ff connector terry told me to try it and it seems ok. also the nm module has a 100 octane +5 psi setting.

 

I have a 2014 Cooper s and I installed the flex fuel adapter and updated the JB software, set the loop to 50 and boost to 5. I got an engine malfunction error p12a9 too much boost. I cleared the code and 10 minutes later it came back. Any suggestions?

 

take the map sensor and reconnect it to the OEM harness , the only connection needed from the BMS tuner is the t-map and the ff connector ....I had the same problem once I disconnected the map returned it back to OEM harness and cleared the codes it has been solid

 

Thanks mopar! You have answered many of my questions doing this upgrade.

 

im running a full race turboback exhaust with mquebed downpipe and no codes. great midrange with bms stage1 and k&n filter.

 

^still looking for a vid showing how your exhaust sounds

 

Connected the oem harness back to stock and cleared the codes. Still throwing a code for too much boost after a few days. Is the latest firmware the one listed on page 1 of the thread on n54tech? I used that before I installed the flex fuel adapter and adjusted the loop and psi. Any advice?

 

Also could the two wires from the flex fuel adapter need to be switched or does that matter?

 

So, I've been using the BMS tuner for about 4 months now. 1 month ago I changed the settings to: Boost Safety +5psi and Fuel Open Loop 50. I run 93 Octane. I also downloaded and installed the latest firmware when I changed these settings a month ago. Today I almost had a heart attack and sh*t my pants because the drive train error happened as I was pulling away from a stop light. I tried to turn the car off and back on, but it wouldn't go anywhere. I pushed it off to a side street, shut the car completely off and let it sit for about 5 minutes and turned it back on. I was able to get home (about 3 blocks), but now I have the engine light on. (When it wouldn't go anywhere it was the engine light and a red exclamation point). What's the deal with the drive train error again? It can't just be a firmware thing because I updated mine (I actually sat there and watched it update). Is it something about the Fuel Open Loop or Boost Safety settings, or my fuel octane? Taking off that tuner is the very last thing I want to do in the world, but I thought my heart was literally going to stop when that happened, and I can't deal with that.

 

Sorry, guys - just saw this. Is this what I need to do? Why is there even a map sensor in the first place on the tuner if you don't connect it?

 

you should run fuel open loop 60 if you dont have ff cables hooked up.

 

i found if you shut the car off the hit lock on the keyfob to shut car down completely then try to start back up after 5 seconds.

 

Are the ff cables part of the tuner? Everything that can be plugged in on the tuner is plugged in. What exactly does that setting (fuel open loop) do?

Also, I just looked in the manual for what the yellow engine symbol means, and it says it's because of "increases exhaust emissions." It's really strange that I've been using the tuner for 4 months, and a month with the new settings and all of a sudden it's detecting weird exhaust emissions.

 

If you have a b48 the MAp is used, if you have a b46 its not used. The FF cable is optional and allows you to run e85. Best place for info is here :

http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25245

 

Thanks, JamesDean. I'll definitely look that over on my lunch today. I stopped by autozone and had them read the code it was throwing, and it was a U0100 code. I googled it, and it says:

Mini Cooper Countryman U0100 OBD-II Diagnostic Network (U) Trouble Code Description

"Mini Cooper Countryman car U0100 OBD-II Trouble Code Modules connected to the high speed General Motor Local Area Network (GMLAN) serial data circuits monitor for serial data communications during normal vehicle operation. Operating information and comm

Reason For Mini Cooper Countryman U0100 Code

The reason of Mini Cooper Countryman U0100 OBD-II Engine Trouble Code is U0100 Lost Communication With Engine Control Module."

I know I have an F56 and not a countryman, but it seems like that code is not model specific. Could the tuner have gone "offline" momentarily?

 

if you dont know what the ff cables are than you probably dont have them connected to your fuel rail and you should be at fuel open loop 60.

 

The thought of folks messing around with a tune when they do not necessarily understand the science of tuning is a bit scary. I'm more engrained in the Mustang world (used to own a highly modified '03 Cobra), but there is a reason why tuner shops are normally used. No way would I mess with a tune unless I absolutely understood what I was doing, what parameters were being changed, and why they were being changed. If you're making your own changes, a wide-band just might be your best friend. And also check your AFR after you've made changes. Another benefit to owning/using a wide-band.

 

CobraBob I completely agree with the premise of your statement, even though I am not too sure what a wide band is (I'll google). I REALLY want to understand what the different settings are actually adjusting and how they affect my engine, but I can't seem to find that info anywhere - just people saying things like "set it to 50" or "set it to 60." The other forum link that people post when I have questions doesn't really go into what the settings actually do either.