F55/F56/F57 Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for F55/F56 MINI Cooper AND Cooper S models.

F55 Trunk Open warning, Limp Mode, Stall, it does it all!

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Old Jun 29, 2021 | 12:44 PM
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F55 Trunk Open warning, Limp Mode, Stall, it does it all!

Purchased my 2016 F55 back in March of '20. The problem started in June, where the dash would notify me that the trunk was open. I would check, and it would be latched closed, and would need to truly be released with the FOB/handle/button. So it's throwing a false warning.
The problem progressed to include the rear wiper, which would shutter very slowly across the window. What's weirder is the brake pedal/light would increase the speed of the wiper. I discovered that opening and closing the trunk would make the issues go away for what seemed like 3 weeks or more. So with all that my mind is electrical and a short. Problem gets a little more dire; i'm backing out of a parking spot and the car begins with the trunk warning, the brake light making the wiper faster, all of it, and then the car dies. no codes. nothing. Normal fix does the trick. Next progression, i'm on a road trip and the car goes into limp with all of the issues occuring and now it throws some codes and says there's a drivetrain issue. same fix, has me up and running again without even a blip of what was going on minutes before... I have Mini pull the codes when I get home and they're listed below. I've got a friend that says start with the latch, another says it's the BCM, and another that says maybe a friction short on some wire somewhere. What do y'all think? anyone seen anything like this before? I can't find any water anywhere, battery is putting out proper power with engine on and off.

Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.

Codes:
194804 Diagnostic module for tank leaks NVLD, pressure switch, signal: open circuit
110001 Cylinder cutout: fuel high pressure too low
194401 Diagnostic module for tank leaks NVLD, communication: fault
11B213 LPFS: Pressure too low
11A002 HPFS: pressure to low
804139 Central locking drive for tailgate or split door, right: line disconnection or short circuit to battery voltage
80434A Relay for heated rear window: line disconnection or short circuit to B+
B7F883 HU-B Internal control unit fault (main board)

It also has these, but i know what they are:
420106 Shiftlock solenoid: selector lever wrongly not locked in P
8040CD Terminal 15 active : incorrect Parking

thanks,






 
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Old Oct 28, 2023 | 12:33 PM
  #2  
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11A002 HPFS: pressure to low

Hello,
Did you find a fix for the 11A002
HPFS:pressure to low which was preceded by drivetrain error and car shutting off in the middle of the road? Any help out there? Changed the fuel electronic module.
Thanks
 
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Old Oct 31, 2023 | 06:53 AM
  #3  
cjv2's Avatar
cjv2
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Originally Posted by bacmush
Purchased my 2016 F55 back in March of '20. The problem started in June, where the dash would notify me that the trunk was open. I would check, and it would be latched closed, and would need to truly be released with the FOB/handle/button. So it's throwing a false warning.
The problem progressed to include the rear wiper, which would shutter very slowly across the window. What's weirder is the brake pedal/light would increase the speed of the wiper. I discovered that opening and closing the trunk would make the issues go away for what seemed like 3 weeks or more. So with all that my mind is electrical and a short. Problem gets a little more dire; i'm backing out of a parking spot and the car begins with the trunk warning, the brake light making the wiper faster, all of it, and then the car dies. no codes. nothing. Normal fix does the trick. Next progression, i'm on a road trip and the car goes into limp with all of the issues occuring and now it throws some codes and says there's a drivetrain issue. same fix, has me up and running again without even a blip of what was going on minutes before... I have Mini pull the codes when I get home and they're listed below. I've got a friend that says start with the latch, another says it's the BCM, and another that says maybe a friction short on some wire somewhere. What do y'all think? anyone seen anything like this before? I can't find any water anywhere, battery is putting out proper power with engine on and off.

Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.

Codes:
194804 Diagnostic module for tank leaks NVLD, pressure switch, signal: open circuit
110001 Cylinder cutout: fuel high pressure too low
194401 Diagnostic module for tank leaks NVLD, communication: fault
11B213 LPFS: Pressure too low
11A002 HPFS: pressure to low
804139 Central locking drive for tailgate or split door, right: line disconnection or short circuit to battery voltage
80434A Relay for heated rear window: line disconnection or short circuit to B+
B7F883 HU-B Internal control unit fault (main board)

It also has these, but i know what they are:
420106 Shiftlock solenoid: selector lever wrongly not locked in P
8040CD Terminal 15 active : incorrect Parking

thanks,
I think one of these three is your central culprit:
804139 Central locking drive for tailgate or split door, right: line disconnection or short circuit to battery voltage
80434A Relay for heated rear window: line disconnection or short circuit to B+
B7F883 HU-B Internal control unit fault (main board)
Any actual short will cause deprivation of voltage throughout the car. The various control modules in the car -- DME, BDC, EPS, you name it -- do NOT like low voltage ("low" meaning less than needed/expected by the equipment) and do NOT really know how to deal with it. Low voltage conditions that are systemwide will also cause modules to miscommunicate *with each other*, so things otherwise coordinated and handled cooperatively between them will start to get messy really really fast.

Example: short circuit causing power drain to the BDC results in the car intermittently shutting down EPS (power steering) at startup, among other weird things. That's not hypothetical -- that was *my* F56S.

The third item -- the internal control unit fault -- I call that out because if it is accurate, that could itself (depending on particulars) be or cause a short. But it could just as easily reflect confusion from one of the other ones. So I would start, given that problem onset was with the trunk/hatch, with the 804139. Smells like a wiring or other physical issue to me. Continue to/with the 80434A. Both might, in fact, have the same source. Whatever you find, once you find and resolve it, clear all codes and see what comes back. If you still have short circuit codes, keep chasing them. I would bet at least a small pizza that if you resolve the codes that are saying short circuit, and then clear all codes, a good number -- if not all -- of the rest will not return.
 
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