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Does this vent valve cause rough idle when starting cold? Our 2017 Clubman S All4 will do this sometimes, but not consistently. Yesterday when my wife started the car ( in the garage ), it idled roughly and as she backed out of the garage it actually stalled. Started right back up. It sounded louder than normal too.
Many times it starts fine when cold (don’t mean like it’s low air temperatures). Does the code show up in the radio? Or do I need a code reader for this? I did go through the radio to check the available status of the various car systems, but everything had a green check mark.
It’s a wait and see condition as of now, because it would probably be fine if I took it to the dealer to diagnose it.
2017 Mini Cooper S Clubman All4 currently at 38,992 miles. Has the check engine light on. Sometimes has a weird idle speed when first started, so today I had a code reader hooked up.
Codes: 118401 Mixture too lean
151001 Ignition timing adjustment in idle, too early after cold start
190F08 Fuel tank ventilation system-Malfunction
191C02 Fuel tank ventilation system 2nd inlet point malfunction
195014 Pressure sensor Venturi nozzle in the tank vent line, signal fixed
1E0001 Idle speed control, engine speed too high
Seems to me I have a malfunctioning vent valve. What do you guys think? Does the check engine light go away if the valve is replaced by itself? Or would I need to manually turn it off?
Just had my dog in the emergency room and now have a big bill, so if I can fix this on my own, it would be great.
Want to add this. I pulled my valve off and really can’t see in it good enough to see the reed valves. You have to look down a tube, so it makes it almost impossible. It is the Bosch, dual port design part # 0 280 142 527
It seems going on the links listed above, it comes up with part # 0 280 142 524, which looking at the pictures on those sites, is only a single port.
Im not sure the dual port ones have issues as the others.
You have way too many codes to just be the valve.
On the TSB, it shows the same codes I have except for a couple. Which I was thinking would cause the weird idling sometimes due to the valve malfunction.
Put the new purge valve in the clubby today. Now I need to find someone to delete the codes to see if they come back. Thanks to ECSTuning for delivering the Bosch part quickly.
FYI, after receiving my Bosch purge valve from ECSTuning, I installed it. Upon the 1st start up, the engine light still showed up. It was then driven about 20 miles and shut off.
When it was started the 3rd time, No More Engine Light.
Apparently the computer recognizes some codes no longer active and shuts off the light. I thought I would have to get the codes deleted but in this case it corrected itself. Yay!!
Also, the new purge valve is 1 number different from the original. New one ends with ….526, original….527. Dual port valve.
Yea, you might need to clear the code with a scan tool dependent on the part. Seems like the F56+ is a learning ECU for emissions. So it was not a permanent fault. My old R52 and R58 you have to clear them.
Was hoping you guys and/or @TVPostSound could shed a bit more light on this.
I took my breather valve out from my 2014 Cooper S and it reads 0280142525.
The local shop tried to sell me 0280142524, telling me its the same part.
You guys, however, posted Bosch part# 0280142526.
Are they all the same as I want to be sure to order the right part?
Hey All, just got a letter from MINI saying this will now have a 15 year and 150k mile warranty. Anyone ever have luck getting paid for DIY repairs? Would love to re-claim the $150 I spent on parts.
Hey All, just got a letter from MINI saying this will now have a 15 year and 150k mile warranty. Anyone ever have luck getting paid for DIY repairs? Would love to re-claim the $150 I spent on parts.
I just got this fault today... Literally just had emissions done yesterday. Probably a coincidence. But yeah, I'll eat the $110 or whatever before wasting a whole day at the dealer. Getting that $$ back would be nice.
From: Manassas, VA where the Civil War resides.....
I got the letter too. I had an independent repair shop replace mine when I was having driveablility problems that turned out to be from one of the plug in controllers. When they were pulling codes, the P0446 showed and they found the diaphram ripped on the valve and they replace all the parts in this system. I figured Mini/BMW should reimburse me for at least the part so I went online to the web site they listed in the letter. It asks you to put in the vin number and mine came back as not eligible! I called the number listed and it does not work! Found another number for BMW who were very helpful. 1st, they know the number is bad and threw Mini under the bus as idiots. 2nd, Mini also doesn't have their act together as BMW also acknowledge that not all eligible vins have been entered into the system. BMW told me to try again in a couple of weeks and if in a reasonable amount of time, it won't work, call them back and they will help me put in a manual ticket......just an FYI.
My VIN also shows as not eligible. I'm going to try calling them tomorrow. I image I'll have an uphill battle since I installed mine myself and not a repair shop.
I called 844-857-0341 which is the number listed on the header of the MINI-RP website. That goes to someone at BMW. They gave me the work around to email my documentation in since the website had not been updated with the new VIN that are affected.
Called before the holidays. Request had been approved and was pending finance sign off to cut the check. Might call them again next week if I dont' see anything. But fingers crossed.
I just replaced my purge valve. 2019 Clubman S All4, 37k miles. I wasn't getting a check engine light, but I noticed a fuel smell with the exhaust when I started my car up and let it idle. I also noticed very reduced MPG (23ish city, 25ish highway, normally I'd see 27ish city and 34ish highway). I figured either I had a fuel leak, or it was the purge valve. Replaced the purge valve, and am now seeing my normal fuel economy, no fuel smell when I let the car idle.
Anyway, time is money so I did just DIY'd using one of the Bosch ones. I know MINI won't reimburse for it but $50 is well worth not driving to the dealer to have them diagnose it, hem and haw about what it could be (when there is no check engine light), and potentially decide not to replace it because the symptoms aren't fully matching up to the TSB.
I guess if you notice a smell vaguely like unburnt fuel in your exhaust, it is a good early warning sign. If you pay attention to your fuel economy it is also a good warning sign. It's funny that a $30-50 part can cause such a difference in vehicle emissions. Perhaps I'll order another valve and just keep it in the boot (for a future MINI owning friend, or 'just in case' for me).
I just replaced my purge valve. 2019 Clubman S All4, 37k miles. I wasn't getting a check engine light, but I noticed a fuel smell with the exhaust when I started my car up and let it idle. I also noticed very reduced MPG (23ish city, 25ish highway, normally I'd see 27ish city and 34ish highway). I figured either I had a fuel leak, or it was the purge valve. Replaced the purge valve, and am now seeing my normal fuel economy, no fuel smell when I let the car idle.
Anyway, time is money so I did just DIY'd using one of the Bosch ones. I know MINI won't reimburse for it but $50 is well worth not driving to the dealer to have them diagnose it, hem and haw about what it could be (when there is no check engine light), and potentially decide not to replace it because the symptoms aren't fully matching up to the TSB.
I guess if you notice a smell vaguely like unburnt fuel in your exhaust, it is a good early warning sign. If you pay attention to your fuel economy it is also a good warning sign. It's funny that a $30-50 part can cause such a difference in vehicle emissions. Perhaps I'll order another valve and just keep it in the boot (for a future MINI owning friend, or 'just in case' for me).
For a $50 part, my thinking is a lot like your thinking -
My F54 JCW Clubman is still pretty new to me, and I haven't been to the dealership yet enough to know if they are a dealership or a stealership, but they moved from one owner to another - I want to think positively about them since they run a local MINI Facebook group and organize events - but that was really formed under the prior ownership. Gah. I'd just do what you did, better than gambling.
$50 for sure is less stress than a "maybe $200 minimum" if they decide not to cover it under a TSB.
At any rate, I don't have any codes but I'm thinking about proactively replacing or at least inspecting it - where is it in the engine bay? Any chance of a photo as a pointer to it?
At any rate, I don't have any codes but I'm thinking about proactively replacing or at least inspecting it - where is it in the engine bay? Any chance of a photo as a pointer to it?
It's under the engine cover, right on top of the motor. It's in the same spot on both the 1.5L and the 2.0L (for cooper S) motors. This youtube video shows the replacement:
When I took my old purge valve out I could not see anything wrong with it. The TSB shows what 'good' versus 'bad' should look like. My valves (dual) both looked okay. I'm not sure how to activate the solenoid to listen to what it sounds like, like if it's just supposed to be 12v across the pins or what...I guess I could try that since I still have the old valve.
Anyway my only advice is to do it on a warm day. I did mine when it was maybe 10 degrees fahrenheit out. I did not break any of the plastic connectors, but my hands were numb trying to squeeze the plugs and pull them off the purge valve. But even with the annoying cold and numb hands, it was a 5 minute job tops. No tools required either, just squeeze the tabs and pull the connectors out. The electric connector was a little annoying, some needle nose pliers might make that one easier.
