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Electrical Clarification on Boost Gauge installation process...

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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 01:18 PM
  #1  
ImagoX's Avatar
ImagoX
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Clarification on Boost Gauge installation process...

So, I've read the Stickied thread on the Boost Gauge install several times, but I'm one of "those guys" that likes to know EVERYTHING about a MOD before I start spinning wrenches... I hate it when I encounter unexpected surprises or, worse, do something the wrong way and have the car not work afterwards. Hopefully you fine folks can answer a few no doubt bone-headed questions before I begin trying to install my new Autometer Boost Gauge. Normally I'd just take a look for myself, but with these parts being concealed under the supercharger intercooler, I'm at the mercy of photographs...




1. The line coming off the fuel pressure regulator (# 4 above) - is that just held on with a clamp? I assume that getting it off is as simple as opening the clamps with pliers and slipping it off? I've head some How-tos refer to "cutting" this line off.

2. Replacing the #2 line (the new peice that goes from the regulator to the "T" junction)- just "plug and go"? Do I need to bleed/repressurize anything after I get everything put back together?

3. Running lines to the cabin - just zip-tie them to anything else in there? Any issues with zip ties or the new tubing melting as a result of engine heat? Anything I should AVOID (besides the obvious- the cylander head, block, etc.)?

4. Anything I need to know about REPLACING the intercooler? Does anything need to be bled/drained/repressurized before I drive off and test the boost meter?

Thanks in advance for any guidance!
 
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 06:36 PM
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From: Texas Panhandle
Matt,
The FPR line is just "yank-and-go". No clamps. No clamps anywhere in this system. Route the new lines anywhere that looks good. The"zip-tie-and-hide" thing is for those paranoid about the Dealer seeing that you have modded your MINI. They'll know, regardless of what you've done.
Note from one who has already done it: if you are using pliers to set the new lines, wrap the pliers tips with tape of some sort to avoid damaging the lines. I used brand-new 11" 45-degree pliers, and managed to damage all of the vacuum lines I touched. Fair warning.
Re-installing the IC: remove all 4 IC boot clamps. Do NOT use any mechanical force to get the IC back into the boots. Just play with it until everything fits. Yes, you will swear, and possibly shed blood. DO NOT use any kind of pry-bar to get things to line up. You will regret it later.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 3cocinas
Yes, you will swear, and possibly shed blood. Do NOT use any kind of pry-bar to get things to line up. You will regret it later.
Wow... that sounds ominous...

What are the boots like? They're rubber and sort of compress or something, right? I've seen the Alta replacement ones on their site and they look like gigantic rubber bands.

THANK YOU for the tape on the pliers tip - that's good to know. They must be pretty snug fittings if they just hold on with no clamps!
 
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Old Mar 29, 2007 | 08:08 PM
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.
 
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