I'm curious if anyone's ever rewired their official MINI driving lights. As they're installed and wired now, they only work with the high beams on. I'd like to use them at any time without the high beams. I've got the installation guide with the wiring diagram as well as the Bentley manual. It doesn't look like it'd be much to wire it up (I'm an aircraft electrician by trade).

Any thoughts?

Wingnut

 

Thoughts - you put other drivers at risk when running with separate switches for high beams/driving lights as you need to turn off two different sets of lights, one not being on the steering column. It's illegal for that reason.
That said, yes it's easy to rewire.

 

It is a real hassle to turn off both a set of driving lights and to drop the high beams quickly in an oncoming car situation, long time to take your eyes off the road. Leaving your main headlights on low beam while you have the driving lights on does simplify the situation but you lose the effect of having all available light on the road. On my off road 4x4's this never became an issue because there are no oncoming drivers out in the boonies.

I hooked aftermarket lights up direct to give me control like you are asking, but didn't like the "dance" to turn them off quickly so I patched into the high beam wire near the headlight for the switch. Your OEM ones of course, are already wired and you can clearly see after removing the switch panel where to snip and run an additional wire from that to power. I recommend you don't, it really is a PITA to operate on a regular basis. I think you will become annoyed with the process and switch it back within a few weeks.

 

To add on to that, I have my driving lights wired directly to a switch. I actually like it. When I do turn off the driving lights it's a quick swipe of the switch and then you tap off the brights. Once you do it a couple times it's easy and becomes motor memory.

 

I have been wanting to do this as well.

 

Your results may vary, but if you are out on flat road interstates that might work for you, but muscle memory is not quick enough on mountain roads at speed. For that extra second plus it takes you have just blinded somebody heading right for you. The big PIAA 520 driving lights pack a lot of light so I have to be prudent when I use them, fortunately I do drive in very remote areas where there are many critters at night so I can use them.

 

all you need to move is one wire


right now the switch side of the relay gets its power from the high beam trigger wire. Move that splice to an always on switched and you're done.

 

That would certainly work but I'd suggest using a circuit that's only hot when the ignition is ON (lest you inadvertently leave your lights on and drain the battery). Cigarette lighter?

 

always on switched means always on and controlled by the ignition switch ... aka, ignition off = circuit off


as compared to an 'always on'


if you go back to the earliest Mini there were two fuses ... two circuits


always on


and switched


sorry if I confused you with classic speak.


yes, the cig' lighter is a workable spot ... or radio illumination (already used by the GEN1 factory kit ... for what?)


what won't work is a circuit that's switched and sometimes on .... only when the computer is sending power to that device . . . like the fog lights

 

Sorry, you confused me. In my defense, my first sports car had Lucas electrics.

 

Hi fellas. I'm currently in the process of wiring up 2 extra hella running lights and 2 piaa fog lights. I'll probably just tap into the high beam light for the hellas and the low beam for the fog lights - just a few inches before the plug on the driver side headlight. (i will be using relays as to not pull too many amps through the light wiring
I DO want the option of having them OFF at my discretion however.
The question is- what's the easiest (and good) way to get my switches through the firewall?
i tried fishing the switch wires through the wiring hole just above where the clutch lever would be (I have an automatic) without success. it was very snug.
Then i notices a small grommet about the size of a quarter near the wiring harness hole. It looks like it's where the clutch linkage would pass through.
Any problems with just poking my wires through that grommet?
thanks in advance for the tips!

 

I don't have an automatic so I can only imagine where that grommet might be. That said, the compartment where the brake/clutch reservoir is is pretty well sealed and stays dry. Any opening you can find in that area would be a good choice for getting thru the firewall.

 

yeah. it looks dry. i'll give it a try. I'll just drill a hole through the grommet just big enough to get wires though then maybe put a dab a silicone on it for good measure.
seems like the simplest way to get through for sure.

 

I have a 2011 auto and ran the wire through the firewall on the drivers side. I removed the windshield wiper and then one side of the plastic cover that fits up next to the windshield and ran the wire through a large plastic cap(grommet) which had a lot of wires (harness) coming from the interior of the car. This grommet is next to the master cylinder. I just punched a small hole in it and ran the wires to a switch I mounted on the left knee board next to the steering wheel.

I am not happy with my power source for my lights. Right now it is connected directly to the battery and I have to remember to turn them off manually. Let me know how you are powering your lights. I think you mentioned one wire run off the low beam wire and one of the high beam wire with a relay. If you need pics of what I did on the firewall I can take them.

 

Do you have the factory fog lights? If so, tap their hot wire to switch a relay for your PIAA fogs, and then they'll work without any extra switches or having to run more wiring into the cabin.