I just received a full OEM driving light kit, and am having trouble with the wiring. It seems the instructions that have I downloaded are incorrect, and there is conflicting information. Can anyone verify which wire in the x14260 the A1 lead from the supplied wiring harness should be connected to? I've tried two ways with no success and would appreciate any input anyone could provide. The rest of the install went smooth and I have double checked all other connections.

 

Yup, a lot of noise on A1, no joy on my installation either. Please advise if you find answer outside this thread, and I will do the same. I am writing an epic review and would love to have the solution.

 

Good news, on the 2012, there is NO ERROR in the MINI procedures. Bad news, I had to track the 'actual' error down using a multimeter and the wiring diagram.

The suspects should be the three taps that splice into wires off the Body Control Module (BCM) in the driver's footwell. Using the harness for the OEM Driving Light relay, I mapped the pins to the various branches of the wiring diagram included with the installation procedure. Then started looking for 12v DC when the ignition was ON, the headlights set to BRIGHT and the dash panel driving light switch ON.

The center of the relay is 12V power from the engine compartment fuse block. The only brown wire emerging from the relay socket goes to ground. 12V DC here and we can proceed, otherwise there is a problem with the engine compartment fuse block connection or the in-line fuse.

The next test directly involves wire connection A1. The yellow and blue wire in the relay socket is the other end of A1. If you have 12V here (with ignition ON, lights on BRIGHT and panel switch ON) then the problem is NOT A1 splice. Fortunately, in my case I had 12V here.

The next test for me was the A12 splice (Grey wire on pin 12 of X14261). Placing the hot probe in the socket with the grey wire and the black multi tester probe on the brown, the reading was zero volts. I removed the vampire tap and replaced, with much precision and vigor. A retest was not necessary, because the green LED in the panel switch was now lit, something that had not happened before. The lights were working.

Moral of the story, even though there may be noise on the internet about a procedure error, it is usually the simplest explanation.

Good Luck!

 

those taps are junk

when I do these installs I solder the connections. More work but much more reliable.